Turtle Wax Ice Question.
I was hoping someone could answer a couple questions. I just used the Ice detailer and it worked awesome. Has anybody used it on their outside mirrors? Also, can the detailer be used on a wet surface prior to drying like the Eagle One wax as u dry wax? I went to the Turtle wax home page, but I did not see a place where you can ask a question. Thanks.
Yes you can use it on outside mirrors, just not sure why you would want to. Use rain-ex IMO. The car must be dry to apply the wax. Also you Must use a micro fiber towel to take it off (trust me on this). Do the whole car at once. then start to take it off. If you have any TW questions just send me a PM.
The first thing I would put on the mirrors is paint. (course thats only after you get them perfectly smooth)
If the wax you are using says let dry to a haze (like most do); the haze should be just beginning to form; not completly dry. If it's completely dry you'll be dragging/scraping it off the clearcoat and scratching/swirling it. Oh you won't know the damage you are causing until you get your car in a detail shop with major florescent lighting and you'll wonder where all that marring came from. If you look closely in bright sunlight you'll see it as well. You need the lubricant properties of the wax for removal as well as application. I know, I saw this occur on my first test area (It was so apparent over the black; vitually undetectable over the yellow/orange/red) I do have 7' ceiling with 6 double tube 4' florescents. I was ruining the clearcoat finish with Mothers Gold Carnuba. Detailer corrected my misdoings and told me to apply wax to a modest size area; apply to a second similar size area then remove from the first, then the second; ...and then repeat. Takes longer to do the car but you won't be marring the CC. He showed me on a car he was doing; the wax in the first section wasn't much different drying wise than the newly applied section. But he did my whole car this way and there isn't even the tinyest swirl or scratch anywhere. He used terry cloth for application and micro for removal. (I had originally used micro for both) He had about 50 different waxes there cause he said he tries everyone that comes out. He likes Meguires paste #26 the best and uses that on any car that matters.
If the wax you are using says let dry to a haze (like most do); the haze should be just beginning to form; not completly dry. If it's completely dry you'll be dragging/scraping it off the clearcoat and scratching/swirling it. Oh you won't know the damage you are causing until you get your car in a detail shop with major florescent lighting and you'll wonder where all that marring came from. If you look closely in bright sunlight you'll see it as well. You need the lubricant properties of the wax for removal as well as application. I know, I saw this occur on my first test area (It was so apparent over the black; vitually undetectable over the yellow/orange/red) I do have 7' ceiling with 6 double tube 4' florescents. I was ruining the clearcoat finish with Mothers Gold Carnuba. Detailer corrected my misdoings and told me to apply wax to a modest size area; apply to a second similar size area then remove from the first, then the second; ...and then repeat. Takes longer to do the car but you won't be marring the CC. He showed me on a car he was doing; the wax in the first section wasn't much different drying wise than the newly applied section. But he did my whole car this way and there isn't even the tinyest swirl or scratch anywhere. He used terry cloth for application and micro for removal. (I had originally used micro for both) He had about 50 different waxes there cause he said he tries everyone that comes out. He likes Meguires paste #26 the best and uses that on any car that matters.
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
The first thing I would put on the mirrors is paint. (course thats only after you get them perfectly smooth)
If the wax you are using says let dry to a haze (like most do); the haze should be just beginning to form; not completly dry. If it's completely dry you'll be dragging/scraping it off the clearcoat and scratching/swirling it. Oh you won't know the damage you are causing until you get your car in a detail shop with major florescent lighting and you'll wonder where all that marring came from. If you look closely in bright sunlight you'll see it as well. You need the lubricant properties of the wax for removal as well as application. I know, I saw this occur on my first test area (It was so apparent over the black; vitually undetectable over the yellow/orange/red) I do have 7' ceiling with 6 double tube 4' florescents. I was ruining the clearcoat finish with Mothers Gold Carnuba. Detailer corrected my misdoings and told me to apply wax to a modest size area; apply to a second similar size area then remove from the first, then the second; ...and then repeat. Takes longer to do the car but you won't be marring the CC. He showed me on a car he was doing; the wax in the first section wasn't much different drying wise than the newly applied section. But he did my whole car this way and there isn't even the tinyest swirl or scratch anywhere. He used terry cloth for application and micro for removal. (I had originally used micro for both) He had about 50 different waxes there cause he said he tries everyone that comes out. He likes Meguires paste #26 the best and uses that on any car that matters.
The first thing I would put on the mirrors is paint. (course thats only after you get them perfectly smooth)
If the wax you are using says let dry to a haze (like most do); the haze should be just beginning to form; not completly dry. If it's completely dry you'll be dragging/scraping it off the clearcoat and scratching/swirling it. Oh you won't know the damage you are causing until you get your car in a detail shop with major florescent lighting and you'll wonder where all that marring came from. If you look closely in bright sunlight you'll see it as well. You need the lubricant properties of the wax for removal as well as application. I know, I saw this occur on my first test area (It was so apparent over the black; vitually undetectable over the yellow/orange/red) I do have 7' ceiling with 6 double tube 4' florescents. I was ruining the clearcoat finish with Mothers Gold Carnuba. Detailer corrected my misdoings and told me to apply wax to a modest size area; apply to a second similar size area then remove from the first, then the second; ...and then repeat. Takes longer to do the car but you won't be marring the CC. He showed me on a car he was doing; the wax in the first section wasn't much different drying wise than the newly applied section. But he did my whole car this way and there isn't even the tinyest swirl or scratch anywhere. He used terry cloth for application and micro for removal. (I had originally used micro for both) He had about 50 different waxes there cause he said he tries everyone that comes out. He likes Meguires paste #26 the best and uses that on any car that matters.
You do realize he's talking about the Turtle wax Ice series. It's a synthetic wax, not your normal paste wax
ABSOLUTELY no PROBS, on your mirrors, they will look awesome. NOT the glass, just the covers.
I even used it on my interior trim.
THIS STUFF will not mark on vinyl, plastic, weater stripping etc....
NO residue, full sun, whatever.
USE IT WITH FULL CONFIDENCE.
I even used it on my interior trim.
THIS STUFF will not mark on vinyl, plastic, weater stripping etc....
NO residue, full sun, whatever.
USE IT WITH FULL CONFIDENCE.
Funny you asked that question... I just tried both side-by-side on my hood yesterday. Couldn't tell a huge difference (of course my car is white, so it's a little hard to judge), but I like the Eagle One wax a lot. I finished the car with it instead of the Ice, but I think they can be used interchangeably.
UB10
UB10
Yes. but my reply was to you. ...more to your statement "Do the whole car at once. then start to take it off". Synthetic or not, you don't have to belive me because only in certain light conditions on dark colors can you see the damage such a process will cause(but it will be there). Just a heads up you all but you need not heed my warning. If you don't mind adding swirls to your clear each time you wax, I guess it doesn't matter the process.
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
Yes. but my reply was to you. ...more to your statement "Do the whole car at once. then start to take it off". Synthetic or not, you don't have to belive me because only in certain light conditions on dark colors can you see the damage such a process will cause(but it will be there). Just a heads up you all but you need not heed my warning. If you don't mind adding swirls to your clear each time you wax, I guess it doesn't matter the process.
Yes. but my reply was to you. ...more to your statement "Do the whole car at once. then start to take it off". Synthetic or not, you don't have to belive me because only in certain light conditions on dark colors can you see the damage such a process will cause(but it will be there). Just a heads up you all but you need not heed my warning. If you don't mind adding swirls to your clear each time you wax, I guess it doesn't matter the process.
Have you used it?
As I've said, it doesn't "dry" into a haze like regular waxes. That's why on the label they state that you can apply it on hot surfaces and in direct sunlight. You can't do that with regular wax because it will dry and harden, and you might get the swirls you mention. Not so with ICE, it stays wet.


