OK, This will be the first vehicle I have ever stored over the winter.

I had someone tell me yesterday that since it will be sitting on a cement floor, I need to put carpeting or plywood or something under my tires to serperate them from the concrete..

They said that the tires will draw moisture from the cement and lead to premature rusting.

I'm trying to figure out how the moisture would then climb up the tires and get to the metal parts.

He told me that a couple guys he knows store classic cars and they swear it's something you have to do.

Anybody ever hear of this before?

I guess it's not a big deal to just do it, but now I'm curious whether it is fact or fiction.

 

Never heard of this before... I thought people blocked cars up for LONG term storage was to take the presure off the suspension... but who knows... [:-]

 

I put mine on jack stands just high enough that the tires do not contact the concrete.
I change the oil just before I park it and I make sure the fuel tank is full. I also put some fuel stabilizer in the tank and disconnect the battery. Then the cover goes on she sits there until spring.
This business of rusting, moisture creeping up, ect. Never heard if it. I put it on stands to take the load off the suspension and tires, mainly so the tires don't develop flat spots.

I've been winter storing my vehicles this way for 26 years and I have never had a problem.

 

I agree with the above on jacks and fuel stabilizer. You may want to consider fogging the cylinders. Talk to a boat shop on how this is done. Put the highest octane in you can and fill it as full as you can. If you're going to cover it, make sure the cover breathes, otherwise it'll allow moiture to collect on the car. Make sure to put a battery tender on the battery. This way you won't have to start it and drive it during the winter. If you start it and just let it run, moisture will develope in the crankcase which of course will lead to rusting of internal engine parts. It's better not to run it at all unless you're going to drive it at least 30 miles to get the engine up to temp to dissipate the moisture. If you take the battery out during the winter, do not store it on concrete. Concrete will drain the battery and ruin it. If you take the battery out, store it where it's warm and don't forget the battery tender.

 

1. Fogging cylinders is primarily used on 2 cycle engines for winter storage, rarely, if ever on 4 cycle.

2. You are recommending filling the tank with 110 octane ???? It's very easy to find.

3. Are you on crack ? or just like making things up ?

 

OK thanks for the info.

I just want to be sure I do what's best for the car while it sits for those months.

 

oops, same message twice!!!

 

I doesn't hurt to throw a piece of visquene (plastic) down as a moisture barrier. I park my Harleys on plastic for the winter, and will probably put the GT on plastic this winter.
Full tank, some Stabil in the gas, and a battery tender......

 

I fill the gas tank up. I start the car weekly and let it run 1/2 hour. I turn the AC on/off and run, heat on/off and run, and move the car up and back so that the tires aren't on the same resting spot as they were before to help prevent flat spotting. I don't cover the car as I feel this will trap moisture. I dust the car off with my California duster weekly. Lift the hood weekly and check to make sure any rodents haven't decided to make a winter home of your engine bay. Don't store any food or bird seed in your garage as this will attract rodents in winter. Set mouse traps in different locations in the garage as insurance. Rodents will chew the hell out of your wires if they decide to make your car their home.

 

LegallyTorchRed

1. You've never been around 4 cycle boats that are stored in the winter. They always have the cylinders fogged.

2. Highest I have is 93. Just the stuff you get on the street, not racing fuel. Higher octane fuel doesn't degrade as fast as lower grade.

3. Ain't making nothing up and don't do dope. The voice of knowledge and experience.