CEL-Check engine light code P0340
I have been getting a repeating CEL after about 30 min. of driving my '05 stang GT, after it really warms up I guess.
I have a JTL CAI installed with SCT tuner. The tuner displays the code" P0340 CAM POS, S CIR ER 1 S 1"
After doing a little googling it seems it is a "Camshaft Position Sensor" failure.
The car does seems to drive fine, no rough idling/surging, etc.
I went to the Ford Dealer and picked up a new Cam Sensor, about $35 and installed it, both places, with same results after 30-min. of driving, CEL comes on with same code.
Anyone have this happen or know if it is dangerous to keep driving when the CEL keeps coming on with this sensor error?
Thx for any advice/info/tips.
I have a JTL CAI installed with SCT tuner. The tuner displays the code" P0340 CAM POS, S CIR ER 1 S 1"
After doing a little googling it seems it is a "Camshaft Position Sensor" failure.
The car does seems to drive fine, no rough idling/surging, etc.
I went to the Ford Dealer and picked up a new Cam Sensor, about $35 and installed it, both places, with same results after 30-min. of driving, CEL comes on with same code.
Anyone have this happen or know if it is dangerous to keep driving when the CEL keeps coming on with this sensor error?
Thx for any advice/info/tips.
You got a ton of responses over at the other forum on your question there. Someone even posted the TSB on the issue. You might be able to work something out with your dealer to get it fixed. You don't want to spend $700 for a new alternator I bet.
Dont get too carried away on the alternator. It is a possible cause but you may also have a wiring issue. The engine harness is known to chaff on the variable intake runner linkage on the back of the intake. The harness is attached to the firewall. Your ignition coils may be a source for the same that the alt is. They generate RFI or radio freguency interference when they begin to fail and may not have problems delivering adequate spark, making them that much more difficult to identify. you cant play around with disconnecting them along with the injectors (to prevent cat failure and engine damage) because that will turn on the light and if you don't have the ability to easily pull codes, you won't know when you have made a difference. You will likely run into several aftermarket shops before the problem is really fixed (given unplugging the alt has no affect) and pay more than you should. A good dealer should figure it out in an hour or less leaving you with a $100 bill plus the cost of parts. Sucks to own a new car with problems I know. It can be expensive but it comes with the terrirory. Good luck
ORIGINAL: hawgman
You got a ton of responses over at the other forum on your question there. Someone even posted the TSB on the issue. You might be able to work something out with your dealer to get it fixed. You don't want to spend $700 for a new alternator I bet.
You got a ton of responses over at the other forum on your question there. Someone even posted the TSB on the issue. You might be able to work something out with your dealer to get it fixed. You don't want to spend $700 for a new alternator I bet.
not sure :-( at work currently, gonna make some phone calls tomorrow to dealer. Quick net search netted no alternators available for a '05 stang :-(
i'll post what I find out tomorrow on dealer price.
i'll post what I find out tomorrow on dealer price.
If the alternator is specific to the new stangs, it will be almost impossible to find one at a local parts store. Part stores don't usually stock brand new parts cause they figure the parts will be changed at the dealer under warranty. I found this out when I went to autozone to buy a stock rear shock. They didn't even show a part number for it. The dealer might be the only place to get one. It still shouldn't be $700 though. Maybe including installation.
ORIGINAL: Newbreedgt05
It still shouldn't be $700 though.
It still shouldn't be $700 though.
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