Buffer
Multi-Tasking Moderator!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,618
From: Detroit Rock City!
RE: Buffer
Get the porter cable DA polisher and use that It works great and will remove the spidering instead of covering them up and filling with wax. It will return if not removed when the wax is removed with time.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,227
From:
RE: Buffer
Get the porter cable DA polisher and use that It works great and will remove the spidering instead of covering them up and filling with wax. It will return if not removed when the wax is removed with time
How did you create this? If you are waxing and letting the wax dry to a haze you are making 'waxing mistake #1'. Apply one section then a second, then remove section one, then section two. Wax should only be slightly hazed over after 10-15mins in moderate temps. My friend has totally swirl marked his 03 black Roush after a dozen waxes 'letting dry to a haze' Car has 1200miles on it.
good luck man...
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,179
From: Nor Cal
RE: Buffer
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
While this is a commonly used method, it is not a good one for new clearcoat cars. The orbital cannot remove the scratches properly as does a rotary buffer and the rotaryshould only be used by seasoned experts. The correct 'cut' of the pad is a big factor as is the solution 'cut' and the speed and the technique. You gonna get all that right? no way. Do waht you want but I'm warning you, Do not go here on a new car! Save what clearcoat you have (you will use it up and not correct the problem properly and effectively); bring the car to a detailer who is a seasoned expert with the rotary buffer. He will correct all the issues you describe and more.
How did you create this? If you are waxing and letting the wax dry to a haze you are making 'waxing mistake #1'. Apply one section then a second, then remove section one, then section two. Wax should only be slightly hazed over after 10-15mins in moderate temps. My friend has totally swirl marked his 03 black Roush after a dozen waxes 'letting dry to a haze' Car has 1200miles on it.
good luck man...
While this is a commonly used method, it is not a good one for new clearcoat cars. The orbital cannot remove the scratches properly as does a rotary buffer and the rotaryshould only be used by seasoned experts. The correct 'cut' of the pad is a big factor as is the solution 'cut' and the speed and the technique. You gonna get all that right? no way. Do waht you want but I'm warning you, Do not go here on a new car! Save what clearcoat you have (you will use it up and not correct the problem properly and effectively); bring the car to a detailer who is a seasoned expert with the rotary buffer. He will correct all the issues you describe and more.
How did you create this? If you are waxing and letting the wax dry to a haze you are making 'waxing mistake #1'. Apply one section then a second, then remove section one, then section two. Wax should only be slightly hazed over after 10-15mins in moderate temps. My friend has totally swirl marked his 03 black Roush after a dozen waxes 'letting dry to a haze' Car has 1200miles on it.
good luck man...
Richard
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,553
RE: Buffer
ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD
Sorry Fairlane going to have to disagree with you on this. The PC can and will in fact remove thescratches and swirling that he most likley has. I think you would be amazed at exactly how much damage it can remove with the correct pads and product. The Rotory is removing clearcoat as well.I do agree with youon the rotary thoughif you do not know what your doing with a rotay then stay away from it. The PC is actually the perfect tool for rmeoving spider webbing whihc he is describing.
Richard
ORIGINAL: fairlane292
While this is a commonly used method, it is not a good one for new clearcoat cars. The orbital cannot remove the scratches properly as does a rotary buffer and the rotaryshould only be used by seasoned experts. The correct 'cut' of the pad is a big factor as is the solution 'cut' and the speed and the technique. You gonna get all that right? no way. Do waht you want but I'm warning you, Do not go here on a new car! Save what clearcoat you have (you will use it up and not correct the problem properly and effectively); bring the car to a detailer who is a seasoned expert with the rotary buffer. He will correct all the issues you describe and more.
How did you create this? If you are waxing and letting the wax dry to a haze you are making 'waxing mistake #1'. Apply one section then a second, then remove section one, then section two. Wax should only be slightly hazed over after 10-15mins in moderate temps. My friend has totally swirl marked his 03 black Roush after a dozen waxes 'letting dry to a haze' Car has 1200miles on it.
good luck man...
While this is a commonly used method, it is not a good one for new clearcoat cars. The orbital cannot remove the scratches properly as does a rotary buffer and the rotaryshould only be used by seasoned experts. The correct 'cut' of the pad is a big factor as is the solution 'cut' and the speed and the technique. You gonna get all that right? no way. Do waht you want but I'm warning you, Do not go here on a new car! Save what clearcoat you have (you will use it up and not correct the problem properly and effectively); bring the car to a detailer who is a seasoned expert with the rotary buffer. He will correct all the issues you describe and more.
How did you create this? If you are waxing and letting the wax dry to a haze you are making 'waxing mistake #1'. Apply one section then a second, then remove section one, then section two. Wax should only be slightly hazed over after 10-15mins in moderate temps. My friend has totally swirl marked his 03 black Roush after a dozen waxes 'letting dry to a haze' Car has 1200miles on it.
good luck man...
Sorry Fairlane going to have to disagree with you on this. The PC can and will in fact remove thescratches and swirling that he most likley has. I think you would be amazed at exactly how much damage it can remove with the correct pads and product. The Rotory is removing clearcoat as well.I do agree with youon the rotary thoughif you do not know what your doing with a rotay then stay away from it. The PC is actually the perfect tool for rmeoving spider webbing whihc he is describing.
Richard
agreed. The Da polisher is great for removing swirl marks, combined with Speed glaze from Meguiars. You can remove them by hand with scratch X, but your arms may fall off first... lol
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,227
From:
RE: Buffer
Well actually I agree with you " The PC can and will in fact remove thescratches and swirling that he most likley has. I think you would be amazed at exactly how much damage it can remove with the correct pads and product." key words, correct pads and product. ...along with correct speed and technique. I would just say if you're going to do this then practice on another car first, preferrably black or a dark color and check your results in full sun to see if you are not in fact creating swirls that are just finer and a lot more difficult to see than what you have removed. (This will be evident in bright sunlight)
I have 2500# sanded, rotary buffed (no orange peel) aftermarket clearcoat over black and have been advised by the custom painterwho did the work and two separate detailers not to do what has been discussed here with the PC. We all know swirl and scratch removal is "clearcoat removal" and I will go with the advice of the professionals when it comes to that. Clearcoat is consumable and there is no abundance of it on these cars. Butdo whatever you feel skilled in.
My question is still, why all the swirl marks? There is no reason to be creating them. They are not caused by driving the car, but by washing, drying orwaxing incorrectly. Inadvertent fine scratches are inevitable but personally I'mgoing to let a detailer that I have a professional relationship with, take care of such things.
To each their own strategy...
I have 2500# sanded, rotary buffed (no orange peel) aftermarket clearcoat over black and have been advised by the custom painterwho did the work and two separate detailers not to do what has been discussed here with the PC. We all know swirl and scratch removal is "clearcoat removal" and I will go with the advice of the professionals when it comes to that. Clearcoat is consumable and there is no abundance of it on these cars. Butdo whatever you feel skilled in.
My question is still, why all the swirl marks? There is no reason to be creating them. They are not caused by driving the car, but by washing, drying orwaxing incorrectly. Inadvertent fine scratches are inevitable but personally I'mgoing to let a detailer that I have a professional relationship with, take care of such things.
To each their own strategy...
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,899
From: Longwood, FL
RE: Buffer
Even with microfiber, I have the problem of picking up a spec of dust or hair and leaving little marks. You can't keep a clearcoat from being scratched IMO, although you can take care of it so it is not noticable. In my case I have a black car and my car has swirl marks on it's new paint job. I do plan to get it professionally detailed to get them removed as I don't have any experience with the correct tools.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 788
From:
RE: Buffer
I have 11500 miles on my car, and have never used a single piece of equipment on my car. I have both that porter cable and a regular cheap car buffer from sears but refuse to use them. A couple months ago I used the clay bar, than meguirs polish than meguirs NXT wax, and man that car shines like no tomorow and the depth is crazy. As long as it keeps turning out this nice I'm not going to risk using some machines and f'in up my paint.