TheDarkPath

I know there have been several posts on underdrive pulley installs but I haven't found a good write-up on the install for an Automatic. The main difference is getting the crank pulley bolt off. I've read there are 2 ways, impact wrench or breaker bar while holding torque converter bolt. I have questions for both scenarios.

1. Can anyone recommend an impact gun to use? I have one but it's too big to fit in the space between the fan shroud and the pulley.
2. I've read that accessing the torque converter bolt to hold is involves removing a cap on the front of the tranny and holding a bolt with a wrench. Can anyone give more detail as far as accessing the TC bolt and how to hold it? I haven't actually looked under the car for the cap on the tranny so it may be easier than i'm imagining.

I also have a question as far as the crankshaft threads. Is there anything that keeps the threads on the crankshaft from getting damaged when using the puller or when putting the pulley back on? Or do you just have to be careful about how far you put the bolt in? I may be making this into more that I should but I just wanted my head free of questions before doing the install. I tend to overthink things I haven't done before and when it comes down to actually doing them, it turns out that i worried for nothing.

Thanks.

CrazyAl

Simple solution: Take out the fan. It's only two bolts and one electrical connector. Now you have plenty of room for the impact wrench.

As for the puller, it is simple not to damage the threads. The puller will come with a set of "pins". You pick a pin and stick it into the nose of the puller. The other end of the pin goes into the bolt-hole in the end of the crankshaft. The pin is slightly narrower than the crank bolt, so it doesn't touch the crankshaft's threads. The end of this pin bears against the bottom of the crank-bolt hole....so there is no pressure applied to either the threads or the actual end of the crankshaft.

If your puller doesn't have pins like this, an old mechanic's trick is to put a penny between thepuller screwand the nose of the crankshaft. The soft metal of the penny prevents damage to the puller or the crankshaft...though it generally ruins the penny.

xbone

Best advice, dont bother, not enough hp gain for the troubleand its hard on the alternator.

GTJUNKIE

I disagree for the money it is a good bolt on mod. You my not be able to feel the differense in HP but your engine revs a lot quicker and smoother. The fan removal is a must for an auto I did mine and it was simple be careful with the impact against the radiator and make sure it has enough torque to breaks the crank pulley bolt and everything will go smooth.

xbone

I disagree with your disagreement.

Mpaint99

I got to agree with GTjunkie. I'm a believer in Brenspeed after the parts I've purchased from them.Brent says the underdrive pulleys are a great investment horsepower wise and money wise.He recommends Steeda pulleys.

jmk3

To finish up on holding the crank to tighten the bolt, there is a rubber plug about 2" in diameter on the drivers side of tranny, its black. Pull it out, it even has a handle in the middle to grab. When its out you rotate the cank clockwise with your torque wrench until you see a converter bolt. You need someone to hold this bolt in position when tightening crank bolt. I uses a 15MM deep socket, 3/8 drive on a ratched. Just let the socket bottom out on side of plug opening while you keep it straight with the ratchet. When your done turn the motor back slightly with crank bolt, it won't come loose, to release the socket.

2k05gt

I Disagree, how can it be hard on the alternator, the alternator is generating varying voltage depending on the RPM's of the Engine, You accelerate the RPM's go up generating more AC voltage. it's always varying speeds. The generated power goes to a Bridge Rectifier where the AC generated voltage is converted to DC, but it is still varying between 14 and 25 volts so you have to regulate this irregular voltage, so now the last piece called a Voltage Regulator, it’s job is to keep the charging voltage at 12-14 volts.
I have not noticed any charging issues since I installed the UDP I have a voltage meter on my AVIC-D1 and charging is in the perfect range. 13.2-13.5 at any given time, unless your car has high demands like 2000 watt Amps, multiple subs, ect.. the alternator will not be affected. You are however putting more demand on the voltage regulator since it will have to work harder to maintain the low and high charging range.

policefordtuff

i agree with 2ko5gt. i have the steedas on mine and have not had any charging problems. none of my buddies have either. def a good mod. one thing i can say though is that most people on here make the install out to be way harder than it is. its very very simple. mines a 5 speed and i know you were asking bout the auto but i didnt even raise my car up off the ground. no impact gun. the only thing i removed was the intake for some room. it was sooo easy. but again, its a great mod!! pretty significant difference when its revving up. good luck guys!!!

TheDarkPath

Thanks CrazyAl, GTJUNKIE, and jmk3 for all the great information and to everyone else on the input. I'll definitely remove the air intake for room but i didn't know if removing the fan would free up enough room. I'll measure first just to make sure but i'm sure that'll take care of it. If worse comes to worse and i can't fit the impact wrench, holding the torque converter sounds pretty easy so that'll be my backup plan.

Thanks again everyone.