VistaBluEsTanG

Hello, i'm new to the forums just recently traded in my 05 GTO for a GT because of Looks and what you can do to the car. I have 750 Miles on the car at the moment... Well quick story today i found a little ding on my hood from the dealer ship and got really pissed off when i left the house my dad said he saw some blue smoke come out of the tail pipes i didn't let it warm up cause i was so angry and i checked the oil to make sure its fine... i think im overreacting but i don't wanna chance anything... Also i ordered a CAI package from Evo Performance JLT II and X-Cal2 with 93 octane for these first 750 miles i've been running 87.. question is can i just flash the car and run 93 like a regular day or should i run 93 for a certrain period of time and how many miles.. Sorry again for the paranoia just love the car and dont wanna break it. THANKS!! also about the smoke i have Axle Back Flowmasters about 4 days old still kinda smell like plastic could this be the reason for the smoke aswell? PLease help

05MustangSally

I'm not sure why you have the smoke...

But good job on the trade! You're gonna love these cars

howarmat

Just make sure you run the same or higher octane that what you have your tune set for (91 tune, run 91+ oct)

Smoke is normal sometimes.

lldsandsll

i had smoke come from my pipes once when i first tuned, no biggy. 3000 miles later, runs fine. btw, im really glad to hear about the switch cuz i wanted a GTO in the worst way and sometimes i wondered if i made the right choice. mustang looks better. gto is faster and has a half real back seat. still, the mustang is freakin awesome and the longer ive had it the happier ive been that i got it.

2k05gt

The blue smoke is normal in the first 3000 miles.
First, run the current installed oil for at least 3000 miles. This will "Set" (Not! break in, bad word) your engine components.The rings are setting and when the engine cools off, a little oil will seep into the cylinder. I will then burn off when you startup again. after the "settingperiod" get a Synthetic Oil.

I have used Royal Purple from my first oil change. (because this is the cheapest of the group IV synthetic oils where Amsoil and Redline are the better group iv's but more money) Now Please do not get mad at what I am about to say but Most Oils on the market are Synthetic Blends, Havoline Formula 3, Valvoline Synthetic, Castrol Syntec, Quaker State, Mobil 1, Yes Mobil 1 is not a 100% Synthetic oil, (But, this being said it's the best Group III on the market because it was derived from PAO basestock)

Note. A few years ago, Exonn/Mobil, Mobil 1 Synth dropped back to Group III Base Stocks to save money and make an oil that would meet GM, Honda and Ford requirments for acceptable engine wear. Mobil 1 is made to be compatable to 90% of the car engines in the world, and is 100% compatable with our cars.

Currently in the petroleum business there are different groups of oils I, II, III, IV, V, VI. Group I is old school, stuff used in the 50's and back. They are not really avilable anymore to the general public. Group II is still around but being replaced by III and IV. What all this stuff means is that The currently available "Premium motor oils" are at least group III "Highly refined". These are last years media promoted "Synthetics". They are still petroleum products, but are so highly refined that they protect your engine to a point that unless you need "Extended Drain" (15,000 miles or more between oil changes, WITH OIL ANALYSIS!) you are fine using them. Groups IV and up are "True" synthetics. Manufactured from all kinds of Hydrocarbon molecules that I won't go into. The reason for these "New" products is mainly the requirement of major fleets that want extended drain intervals utilizing oil analysis programs. TSome company test products have actually gone 1 Million miles with proper maintenance. You don't need that. So, rathter than buy a Full synthetic at between 8.00 - 20.00 per quart and changing it out in 3000 miles. Use a premium grade of oil (Major Brand Name) and follow the usual drain interval recommended by your engine manufacturer.
As to protection of your engine, with the type of driving and drain interval you probably follow. The added protection of longterm Anti-Oxidation, Extreme low temperature, extended drain characteristics of the group IV and up is not needed. The protection af a major branded oil should be fine for your new engine. If you do use a full synthetic, remember, change your OIL FILTER at the recommended mileage, top off your oil when you do, run at least on full oil change of Synthetic thru your engine as a flush to get out the old oil, "Set" your engine first by putting at least 3000 miles on it. I recommend Castrol, Havoline or Mobil 1. Group III are fine.


"true" 100% synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized (Group IV, V, VI).
AMSOIL
Valvoline SynPower
Royal Purple
Red Line
Mobil 1 Extended Performance
SYN3

VistaBluEsTanG

Thanks... so much i mean i haven't beat the car up or anything i mean i got around 400-450 miles till i actually stepped on it i raced and 04 cobra one till 40mph from a dig then was smoked after hearing the winding sound but i really dont constentley beat the car up... i also prior till today havent drove it since sunday cause i was away i got scraed lol it was a constant blue smoke it was a poof you can say... And about the GTO i had 2 gtos Blue and Black their fast but you cant launch hard their a top end car kinda pointless their also really noisey in the back the shiffter is crap aswell so is the tranny!!

2k05gt

I know what you mean about the GTO, I almost bought one before the stang, it was yellow, and I test drove it, and I mean hard when I brought it back to the dealer and parked it, the overflow tank from the radiator just started to smoke and then all the coolent sprayed all over, I could not get out of there fast enough hehehe, the sales man just stood there, wondering what is going on... But It launchedlike crap, and the shifter was crap aa well, it handles well, it would have been a nice car on the twisties but it was way too heavy for that. Even though the Mustangsrear axle is a live axle the new design of the S197 handles very well on the road track as well as the drag strip.

Check out my Virginia Internation Raceway (VIR) Road Race
Here is my Drag Race 13.32 at Mason Dixon Dragway
and my Drag Race 13.36 at Fayettville, NCSpeedway
and a Drag race with a 2006 Dodge Daytona R/T

VistaBluEsTanG

Oh damn thats you? I've watched a bunch of you're videos on streetfire.net... nice runs btw... im thinking about doing the same thing as you i have my JLT II CAI and SCT 93 octane tune on its way i have flowmaster axle back and i wanna do an off road H-Pipe aswell... 4:10 gear too how hard is the 4:10 Gear to install?

P.S. So the blue smoke is normal correct?

2k05gt

thanks, The JLT II is a good choice because you get the highest HP gain with a tune over all the others except the C&L, but it's pricy but looks better than the JLT..
Gears will have to be done at a shop, they are not that hard to do "if you know what you are doing" some guys on this site have had a shop install them an they make noise like a moan or whine... if the installer knows his stuff, you will be fine. I paid 220 bucks for gears, shimsand bearings and 240 for install.

and Yes very normal on new engines,Blue smoke means oil, black smoke means you are running rich on the air/fuel and white/grey smoke could mean the air/fuel is lean or blown head gasket. of course on older cars.

Mine still will put a puff or two out when it sits for over a week