exx1976

Anyone have one? I'm very keen on improving the handling and suspension performance of mt GT, and I hear that a Watts link is the way to go.. Can anyone provide some insight? Ever installed one? Do you need special knowledge or tools, or is it just bolt-n-go?

Here's the one I'm looking at.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_935463_-1


Thanks!!!

Menace

I'm interested in this unit as well since I don't have a Panhard bar or Brace upgrade yet. I know Saleen uses a Watts-link but theirs might be different. Not sure if that means better. Would this be an upgrade suitible for a daily-driver/occassional drag strip?

olvanish

I will have an answer for you in about a week on that one. I ordered one from RPM outlet-- 341 delivered so you might wanna check that out.

exx1976

It's $349 + shipping on their site.. Care to share your secret??

ohnoesaz

Watts link is awesome. There is lakewood, Fays2, Saleen and maybe others.

The issue that the watts link will add weight to your car, so unless you're road racing then you'll never get the benefit of it. 'Spirited' driving won't show the benefit of a watts link, just less speed because of the added weight. You need to road race to justify the price. If you don't road race then just replace the stock items with aftermarket ones.

Also keep in mind that the cheaper options, Lakewood comes to mind, have a very poor design because you have to clamp the watts link onto the axle tubes. This can cause them to crush if you clamp too hard. If they don't crush then its possible you didnt clamp hard enough and are not even getting the full benefit.... The Fays2 and Saleen are the only quality options on these right now....

Menace

No fun for spirited drivers? The saleen one connects to the girdle, that's kinda scary.

Argonaut

You forgot the Griggs - blows away all others on the market...but it costs much more also. http://www.griggsracing.com/product_...roducts_id=575

ohnoesaz

Its fun for everyone, including just during spirited driving... But its pricey, and road racers will benefit more. And yes, the ones that connect to the girdle by bolts are safer than the ones that clamp to the axle.

Anyways, contrary to what I said above... its a good buy, just make sure you drive hard to enjoy it...... I like the fays2 and maybe the saleen, and the guy above mentioned the griggs.... I heard haney motorsports might have one, not sure.

alloutt

the Saleen one is supposed to be the best I don't think there worth it and I would never get one.

Norm Peterson

At best, it's kind of a third-priority source of handling/cornering improvement, so I'm going to suggest that you hold off for now.

Tightening the nut behind the steering wheel is first (IOW, seat time at either auto-X or open-tracking). Tires and wheels is second. Then everything else.

When you know the technical reasons for why you might want one (other than what you'll read below, as a full explanation would be MUCH longer), and know that they apply to you individually, at that point you'll be about ready to buy. As a hint, if you're not running on tires commonly used in SCCA's Street Touring classes or tires that are genuinely equal to or better by reputable test, I wouldn't bother.

A properly installed Watts link can provide slightly more equal handling in right turns vs left than a PHB will, at least undersome circumstances. But there's a lot more to it. Especially when it comes to suspensions, there simply aren't any "magic answers" that will cause great improvements simply by having "such and such a component" installed. There's usually some tuning required to gain the maximum benefit (or perhaps any at all). Walk away from anybody who claims differently. As already mentioned, if it's done right you need to be driving up near race-level intensity before the benefits will really show up. IOW, unless this is for at least a dual purpose street/autocross or street/road course running it's not likely to be worth much other than being a "brag factor". Done wrong, you'll hate to drive it really hard and you'll wish it was stock again.

You do need to have at least a decent grasp of suspension kinematics, so that you'll have some idea about the details of installation and what sort of effects could be expected. Installation heights are quite important, especially in relation to where the OE PHB is. Make it much different from the OE PHB height and you'll end up swapping the rear sta-bar and/or rear springs for different stiffness components, and different shocks to control what will probably be stiffer springs. You see, moving the rear roll center height downward will affect the way the car behaves, possiblyeven more than it will affect such measurements as "lateral g's". And simply taking a random somebody else's word for it on any specific tuning means that you'll be driving what they'd set up for themself, which might be too "loose" (oversteer)or have to much push (understeer) for you.

Personally, I'm not too crazy about any suspension linkage product that is only bolted or clamped where an OE installation would be welded (which would pretty much everywhere except between components that must move relative to each other in order for the suspension to move. If it's not supposed to move there, it should be welded there. Most preferably by a certified welder. Bolts can loosen, extra "hinges" in your suspension are not good things, and no street-driven car is inspected for possible suspension looseness on any sort of schedule.

I haven't chased any of the links, so I'm not prejudiced either for or against any suppliers. I'm not even prejudiced against this mod. Just against the possibility of doing it badly and for the wrong reason.


Norm