SCCAGT

In one of the trade magazines I get at my shop (MOTOR magazine), there is a section called Trouble Shooter. It starts off about a tech having an issue with an 05 F150 with the 5.4. The sparkplugs in these engines are very similiar to the Mustang, if not identical. Apparently, the tech had two of the plugs break off below the plug seat, leaving the ground electrode shield and part of the ceramic insulator still in the head. Ford has a TSB that covers only the the removeal of the ceramic if its complete or if only the ground electrode shield is left behind.

We know already, there have been a few instances of plugs being difficult to get out. Heres why:

"Because the ground electrode shield is below the plug seat, carbon from the cumbustion chamber may accumulate between the shield and the cylinder head plug bore. The carbon may cause the plug to seize to the plug bore, so extreme caution must be exercised during removal. Engine temperature during this procedure is critical - not too hot and not too cold. Ideally, the engine should be warm to the touch. Run the engine to operating temperature, then allow it to cool until it reaches a comfortable working temperature."
"Remove the coil assemblies, then blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air. Back out the plugs no more than1/8 to 1/4 turn, then apply penetrating oil to fill the spark plug well to a level just above the jam nut hexes. Dont get carried away. Too much penetrant, or repeated soakings, may allow the penetrant to get into the cylinders and cause hydrolock. Ford recommends a specific penetrant called AeroKroil marketed by Krano Labs. If you've had success with other penetrant brands, use it. Allow the penetrant to sit for a minimum of 5-10 minutes-longer if possible."
"After the penetrant has worked its magic, slowly remove the spark plug. It may protest by screeching, and high effort may be noticed. The expected removal torque should be about 33ft-lbs and decrease as the plug comes out. If the plug feels tighter than that, stop! Try turning thespark plug back in by half a turn, then back out again. If the turning torque still seems high, repeat the back and forth rotation, while adding more penetrating oil to reduce the turning effort. The inportant thing to remember is, to take your time."
"Some have suggested using air or power tools to "shock" the plug loose. Ford does not advise this practice. Anything that applies too much torque to the plug is likely to breakit in two or more pieces."
"If, despite your best efforts, one or more spark plugs still break off, all hope is not lost. Ford TSB 06-15-2, covers the full procedure for removing the broken pieces."
"When a plug breaks, it may take all of the insulator with it, or a portion may remain behind inside the ground electrode shield. If theres enough room to grab onto, use long reach needle nose pliers to remove the insulator. More soaking may be required."
"If the insulator has broken off flush with the ground electrode shield, purchase a drill bit thats designed for glass, ceramic, concrete, etc. Add a 6" drill extension and a right-angledrill, then slowly drill out the insulator. A sharp punch can be used to break the insulator into pieces, but try to keep any of the debris from entering the combustion chamber. Vaccuum the area around the ground electode shield when you're done"
"The next step involves a special tool (Rotunda Special Service tool 303-1203) that threads into the ground electrode shield, thenpulls it out of the head. This tool is available in the aftermarket as well. The inside bore of the ground electrode shield must be tapped first, before the special tool can do its thing. As before a steady approach will give you the best chance of success. If you need any extra motivation, justkeep telling yourself, I dont want to remove the cylinder heads."
"When installing the new plugs, apply a coating of high temperature nickel antiseize lubricant to the ground electrode shield. Coating the electrode strap may cause a misfire. Do not apply lubricant to the threads and torque the plugs to 25 ft-lbs. Ford changed the spark plug bore diameter slightly on later models, sothe problem shouldnt arise."

Right now, this may not be muchof a concern on most Mustangs, but as they age, it will be. I'm sure I will run into this issue myself at some point down the road. Just thought I wouldshare some good advice to the DIY's out there.

Dex

i've changed and taken the plugs out quite a few times with no problems. Is this a rare occurrence?

hammeron

excellent! ok this is starting to
make sense now...

the reason we're not supposed to use
anti-seize on the threads, is because the
penetrant/lubricant may not be able to make
it's waydown to the desired area...

GidyupGo

Ahhhh, I see said the blind man. Official sticky request being made here.

howarmat

Since we all like pics:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=69653

GidyupGo

But he anti-seized the threads. How can any spray lube get past them to loosen the carbon?

99flhr

Not exactly, go back and reread thenext to last paragraph. "Apply anti-seize to the ground electrode shield" then it goes on to say " do not lubricate the threads". I agree it`s somewhat confusing[:@]

Derf00

It's not rare, it will happen if the plugs are left undisturbed for the recommended 60K+ miles. Most stang owners are **** about their engine bays and maintenance. Truck owners are less likely toworry about the engine bay in general and/or cleaning the plugs every 12-15k miles unless it part of maintenance. They leave them in there until the maintenance cycle is up. 60K+ miles without touching them = a very good chance teh carbon has had enough time to build up on the plug.

SCCAGT

I typed this pretty much verbatim out of the magazine, so I know some terminology may be above some peoples head.In my experience here, those that come to my shop, are incapable of doing work themselves. So I seecars that rarely get attention when needed unless somethingflatout prevents it from being driven.I wish I had some pictures to show exactly where to put the anti-seize, but looking at the pics in the link above of the plug in the gapper, anti-seize should be applied right below the threads, on the smooth area, where the plug tapers in, and then down the side, close to, but not on, the ground strap. Hope this helps to clarify.

I know I will run into this in the future. Mustangs are not immune from ownership by idiots.

99flhr

Thanks for the clarification, and + 1001 on the suggested use of "Aerokroil", it, and everything from Kano Labs is a superior product. If you don`t find it locally, just ring them up and they`ll ship direct to your house (usually saves $ also) GREAT STUFF!