Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on dyno,,,Updated
#1
Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on dyno,,,Updated
I did forward this to Spyder,
I have the cargetting the SC put on and all is done.
tunercalled me last night to say, did I ever have a problem with my 1 piece Spydershaft wher it connects to the rear end flange,andI said why? He said that rear end fluid is spraying out of the pinion seal area. .
The shaft has been on the car for 3 months and about 350 miles, No vibration or other issues.
OK, here is what has happened.
In putting the drive shaft on the car, and while putting the rear Flange on with the seal I Torqued the pinion nut to 140 ft lbs per Spyders web sites directions. Only thing is that Setting the preload back to 140 crushed the seal and pressed out the spring part of the seal causing it to leak fluid on the dyno under WOT.
OK, Here is what I have found out since from a Rear end specialist. I was told that I Should have also replaced the Crush Sleve in addition to the seal. By Torqueing the pinion nut back to 140, I most likely crushed the original crush sleve too much causing the pinion able to move front to back obviously causing another problem to occur. Vibration/binding noise.
So word to the wise<<< If you change the rear flange and seal, Change the crush sleve to be sure it is done right and so you dont have any problems like I am having. The Shaft is awesome<< But the directions I am seeing leves a little more to be desired. IE= my problem
Also 125-150 is a preload setting used when putting a ring and pinion set up in as a preload setting. Un doing the pinion nut and changing the flange and then just torquing back doesn't nessessarally set the preload back properly and Could/might crush the cars crush sleve on the pinion causing the pinion being able to move slightly which could cause a future problem.
I have the cargetting the SC put on and all is done.
tunercalled me last night to say, did I ever have a problem with my 1 piece Spydershaft wher it connects to the rear end flange,andI said why? He said that rear end fluid is spraying out of the pinion seal area. .
The shaft has been on the car for 3 months and about 350 miles, No vibration or other issues.
OK, here is what has happened.
In putting the drive shaft on the car, and while putting the rear Flange on with the seal I Torqued the pinion nut to 140 ft lbs per Spyders web sites directions. Only thing is that Setting the preload back to 140 crushed the seal and pressed out the spring part of the seal causing it to leak fluid on the dyno under WOT.
OK, Here is what I have found out since from a Rear end specialist. I was told that I Should have also replaced the Crush Sleve in addition to the seal. By Torqueing the pinion nut back to 140, I most likely crushed the original crush sleve too much causing the pinion able to move front to back obviously causing another problem to occur. Vibration/binding noise.
So word to the wise<<< If you change the rear flange and seal, Change the crush sleve to be sure it is done right and so you dont have any problems like I am having. The Shaft is awesome<< But the directions I am seeing leves a little more to be desired. IE= my problem
Also 125-150 is a preload setting used when putting a ring and pinion set up in as a preload setting. Un doing the pinion nut and changing the flange and then just torquing back doesn't nessessarally set the preload back properly and Could/might crush the cars crush sleve on the pinion causing the pinion being able to move slightly which could cause a future problem.
#2
RE: Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on 1 st dyno pass,,, HELP<.
The rear seal should be simple to swap out. Remove the Driveshaft and then pull the pinion flange piece off.Dig the old seal out and replace it with the new $5 item.
#3
RE: Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on 1 st dyno pass,,, HELP<.
If possible, get a Teflon Seal.
You damaged or knicked it during instal of the one piece. A dab of grease would prevent that, and some gentleness.
You damaged or knicked it during instal of the one piece. A dab of grease would prevent that, and some gentleness.
#4
RE: Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on 1 st dyno pass,,, HELP<.
Also to consider maybe the new flange wasn't tightened all the way or something.... Either way tell him to calm down, its just a seal.
To answer your question about the flange... Its not the seal, its instead what the driveshaft connects to. You need yours specifically because its for the spydershaft. The stock flange won't work available at ford wont work, unless of course you put the stock driveshaft back on with it.
Either way you probably just need the seal sitting between the flange and the rear end.
To answer your question about the flange... Its not the seal, its instead what the driveshaft connects to. You need yours specifically because its for the spydershaft. The stock flange won't work available at ford wont work, unless of course you put the stock driveshaft back on with it.
Either way you probably just need the seal sitting between the flange and the rear end.
#5
RE: Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on 1 st dyno pass,,, HELP<.
ORIGINAL: ohnoesaz
Also to consider maybe the new flange wasn't tightened all the way or something.... Either way tell him to calm down, its just a seal.
To answer your question about the flange... Its not the seal, its instead what the driveshaft connects to. You need yours specifically because its for the spydershaft. The stock flange won't work available at ford wont work, unless of course you put the stock driveshaft back on with it.
Either way you probably just need the seal sitting between the flange and the rear end.
Also to consider maybe the new flange wasn't tightened all the way or something.... Either way tell him to calm down, its just a seal.
To answer your question about the flange... Its not the seal, its instead what the driveshaft connects to. You need yours specifically because its for the spydershaft. The stock flange won't work available at ford wont work, unless of course you put the stock driveshaft back on with it.
Either way you probably just need the seal sitting between the flange and the rear end.
#7
RE: Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on 1 st dyno pass,,, HELP<.
ORIGINAL: marcuskeeler
Nah, best off going to GM for that.
Sorry, I tried not to do that,I really did !!!
Nah, best off going to GM for that.
Sorry, I tried not to do that,I really did !!!
$9000.00 for SC Polished, Prothane MM, SOS Gauge pods, AF wideband AF meter set up, Boost Gauge, Install and To be CUSTOM Dynotuned.
I know things happen but man it is a $12 dollar seal and 40 minutes to fix it. If someone told you that you could come pick up your car to have it fixed and for now load the Standard Whipple tune and come back later for a Custom tune. You would be a little pissed off too. I am 2 states away. If I wanted a standard tune and basic install I could have done that locally. I took it there for the Custom Work and Custume Tuning.
As for now I hope and believe that the Tuner will have my situation corrected. What is a couple more bucks to have everything done right?
I will keep you all posted.
#10
RE: Rear pinion seal blew out fluid on 1 st dyno pass,,, HELP<.
Oh crap is the pinion seal on the inside?
All I can remember is when I changed my flange fluid spilled out until I put the new flange on and torqued it down. I have no clue now which side it is on.
Anyways, theseal is a Ford part so yes, dealer. Its not an item that came with the spyder's new flange.
All I can remember is when I changed my flange fluid spilled out until I put the new flange on and torqued it down. I have no clue now which side it is on.
Anyways, theseal is a Ford part so yes, dealer. Its not an item that came with the spyder's new flange.