Good price to offer? 1st time mustang buyer.
1st post, long time reader.
I am looking to buy my 1st new mustang and was wondering if anyone can help me out with whatI should offer the dealership
Sticker Price is $24,855
Edmunds invoice Price is $22,708
I live in Texas and it looks like Ford has a $1000 incentive
I have good credit 770+.
I went to carbuyingtips.com and they have a excel sheet programthat suggests I offer $22,313.
Does $22,313 sound about right? The Mustang has auto trans, IUP, Pony Package, Ambient Lighting, Leather trimmed seats and SIRIUS radio.
I can live without the Sirius radio, sois it possible to get that taken out of the car and price? I would like to add side scoops to it should I get them put on when i buy it or wait for a later date?
Thanks in advance
I am looking to buy my 1st new mustang and was wondering if anyone can help me out with whatI should offer the dealership
Sticker Price is $24,855
Edmunds invoice Price is $22,708
I live in Texas and it looks like Ford has a $1000 incentive
I have good credit 770+.
I went to carbuyingtips.com and they have a excel sheet programthat suggests I offer $22,313.
Does $22,313 sound about right? The Mustang has auto trans, IUP, Pony Package, Ambient Lighting, Leather trimmed seats and SIRIUS radio.
I can live without the Sirius radio, sois it possible to get that taken out of the car and price? I would like to add side scoops to it should I get them put on when i buy it or wait for a later date?
Thanks in advance
take the ford incentive right off the top; i wouldnt even factor that into the haggling. that rebate is from ford, not the dealer.
after that, i say 10% off invoice, not sticker. most dealers pay under invoice anyway. my 07 was stickered at 24,500 and i ended up writing a check for 18,500 including tax, and giving them a '00 pontaic with massive frame damage and 60,000 miles.
after that, i say 10% off invoice, not sticker. most dealers pay under invoice anyway. my 07 was stickered at 24,500 and i ended up writing a check for 18,500 including tax, and giving them a '00 pontaic with massive frame damage and 60,000 miles.
When I bought my mustang, I bought it certified pre-owned(ex-rental) with 24k miles on it. I was in line on buying a 2005 v8, my credit score was 700 all the way down till Ford noticed my asset score looked like a pedophile meeting chris hansen in person.I was talked out of the v8 and was directed to the silver06 v6in my pics. Ford wanted $22Kfor it, but I was able to drop it down to $19K.I put down $5100 andIm paying $325per month plus $80 for insurance. my suggestion is keep shopping around, or do what i did, keep walking out of the dealership till they stopstalking you and negotiate a lower price.
https://mustangforums.com/m_4592958/tm.htm
The above thread is a good read for a new car buyer. Never negotiate the price of a new car based upon where your monthly will be. Negotiate the total price, and then look at the financing options.
Good luck to you!!!
The above thread is a good read for a new car buyer. Never negotiate the price of a new car based upon where your monthly will be. Negotiate the total price, and then look at the financing options.
Good luck to you!!!
Also, let them offer you a price first, and always offer less than your willing pay. Go down an extra 2000 - 4000 thousand. You never know, they may really need to get rid of a car that day.
ORIGINAL: Redneck Chinaman
my credit score was 700 all the way down till Ford noticed my asset score looked like a pedophile meeting chris hansen in person.
my credit score was 700 all the way down till Ford noticed my asset score looked like a pedophile meeting chris hansen in person.
I posted this in that other thread, but i'll toss it in here too.
I sell cars at a dealership and just bought a 05 V6 loaded mustang in December for $13,800. They were asking $17k.
-Buy used, you will save a lot. Be sure to check out the car mechanically and cosmetically, get a carfax, and if possible talk to the previous owner. There are some turds out there, but there are also some used cars that are like new.
-If you must buy new, check to see if Ford has an agreement with youremployer for an employee purchase program. There is a huge list of companies included. For Chrysler, you actually buy at 1% under factory invoice. It takes the roomfornegotiation out, but it's a huge discount.
-If not then use Edmunds.com. Some of the stuff on there is bogus, but most if it is pretty good, and it's definitely better than going in blind. $500 or so over invoice is a deal most dealers would take if they are needing to sell a car.
-If you are trading in a car...don't. You will always get more if you have the patienceto sell it outright.
-Negotiate price, not payments. The payments they will give you on the 4square will be slightly inflated with a higher interest rate and financing charges to give them room to move without actually lowering the price.
-Get a quote from your bank or credit union. Most dealerships can beat it because of the volume of loans they sell, but they won't unless they have to.
-If you are financing for 5 years or more and/or carrying over negative equity from a previous car then buy gap. It's like 300 dollars and can dig you out of a nasty situation.
-Negotiate on the warranty and don't get the cheaper options. Get an exclusionary policy that lists what isn't covered instead of what is. That way you know exactly what you have.
-Work with someone you trust. If he seems shady, he probably is. There are some bad guys in this business.
I sell cars at a dealership and just bought a 05 V6 loaded mustang in December for $13,800. They were asking $17k.
-Buy used, you will save a lot. Be sure to check out the car mechanically and cosmetically, get a carfax, and if possible talk to the previous owner. There are some turds out there, but there are also some used cars that are like new.
-If you must buy new, check to see if Ford has an agreement with youremployer for an employee purchase program. There is a huge list of companies included. For Chrysler, you actually buy at 1% under factory invoice. It takes the roomfornegotiation out, but it's a huge discount.
-If not then use Edmunds.com. Some of the stuff on there is bogus, but most if it is pretty good, and it's definitely better than going in blind. $500 or so over invoice is a deal most dealers would take if they are needing to sell a car.
-If you are trading in a car...don't. You will always get more if you have the patienceto sell it outright.
-Negotiate price, not payments. The payments they will give you on the 4square will be slightly inflated with a higher interest rate and financing charges to give them room to move without actually lowering the price.
-Get a quote from your bank or credit union. Most dealerships can beat it because of the volume of loans they sell, but they won't unless they have to.
-If you are financing for 5 years or more and/or carrying over negative equity from a previous car then buy gap. It's like 300 dollars and can dig you out of a nasty situation.
-Negotiate on the warranty and don't get the cheaper options. Get an exclusionary policy that lists what isn't covered instead of what is. That way you know exactly what you have.
-Work with someone you trust. If he seems shady, he probably is. There are some bad guys in this business.


