best clay bar?
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,473
From:
best clay bar?
well tomorrow im going to be spending a majority of the day devoted to the car. total detail. and im going to clay bar her for the first time. is there a better clay bar system to get? is there anything special i should do after i bar it? as far as i know its wash, rinse, clay bar, rinse, dry and then polish &wax.. is there something im missing.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 354
From: Loomis, California
RE: best clay bar?
i think you've got it down! the only part your missing is to do MY car too. haha
i prefer to use the meguiars line of products, haven't had ANY trouble with their products yet but i know that some people have good results with mothers as well.
just make sure you rinse very thuroughly after the wash and you'll be fine.
god luck!
i prefer to use the meguiars line of products, haven't had ANY trouble with their products yet but i know that some people have good results with mothers as well.
just make sure you rinse very thuroughly after the wash and you'll be fine.
god luck!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 208
From: Washington, DC
RE: best clay bar?
A couple of weeks ago I clay bared my stang for the first time. I used Mothers clay bar kit, $19.95. Here is the order I did:
1. wash and soap
3. Clean wheels
2. wash and soap
3. Dry car
4. Spray wax with clay bar
5. Wash car
6. Dry car
7. Liquid wax the came with the kit
8. Tires
1. wash and soap
3. Clean wheels
2. wash and soap
3. Dry car
4. Spray wax with clay bar
5. Wash car
6. Dry car
7. Liquid wax the came with the kit
8. Tires
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 227
From: Orange County, CA
RE: best clay bar?
let me tell you about this since i have a concourse show car 68 camaro. First wash your car with Mothers car wash, Meguiars is ok but not that cheap crap that strips your wax... get the gold class at least (i prefer mothers ALWAYS). Then buy the claybar called CLAY MAGIC, yes i know it's from japan but it owns! Depending on how fuched yourpaint is you may need two of them. With the clay bar use Windex for the lubricant, the stuff that comes in the kit is pointless. Make sure youclayyour carwith the mindset knowing that it will take at least one hour just for the clay. Use plenty of Windex,keep claying untill it feels better than the smoothest marble you've ever felt. Then wash the car agian with the Mothers. Now dry it completely with your chamious. Then use Mothers Stage 1, to removeoxidation (slightly abbrasive), then Mothers Stage 2 (to rid swirls andminimal scratches), then Mothers Stage3 (HUGE this is a must!!! Mothers Pure Carnuba non-abbrasive! This makes your mustang look better than J-Lo... seriously) If this doesn't do the trick i don't know what will. Trust me, idid this for a living!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 231
From: MI
RE: best clay bar?
Since you want to strip clean and start fresh, here is what I was suggest (what I do):
1) Wash with BLUE Dawn liquid. It will remove all old wax, and clean very well safely. Only use the blue, the other stuff doesn't strip as well. Spend your time, dry it well. Yes I know this soap is normally a no no, but you WANT to remove everything and get it super clean as a start.
2) Clay Bar. I use Mothers or Meguiars, Meguiars better since they give 2 small bars instead of 1 bigger bar. Clay magic is good too, it's harder and a bit more agresive. Use plenty of the detail spray (buy an extra bottle). Use Smooth, straight motions (do not use circular motions). Do it once, then dry it, then do the same area again after kneading the clay.
3) Pre wax cleaner or polish (I use a Porter Cable electric DA with 3m polish, then swirl remover on foam pads, that takes days though). This step by a properly used machine is best.
4) wax. None of the FX or other unique waxes (they are great in the short run, but do not last as long as a proper carnuba wax). 100% Carnuba wax (soft or hard), or else Rejex (google it, not a wax, but better IMHO, over last winter it lasted much longer on my vehicles). Repeat. 2-3 layers. It will build up a bit. After 3 layers won't do anything.
Don't forget to wax the trunk and hood surround, and door jambs. The better wax job you have, the cleaner it will stay. I know some of this conflicts with 68ss350, but I don't agree with the Windex thing. The detail spray lubes well, not enough lubricant can be bad for the paint.
1) Wash with BLUE Dawn liquid. It will remove all old wax, and clean very well safely. Only use the blue, the other stuff doesn't strip as well. Spend your time, dry it well. Yes I know this soap is normally a no no, but you WANT to remove everything and get it super clean as a start.
2) Clay Bar. I use Mothers or Meguiars, Meguiars better since they give 2 small bars instead of 1 bigger bar. Clay magic is good too, it's harder and a bit more agresive. Use plenty of the detail spray (buy an extra bottle). Use Smooth, straight motions (do not use circular motions). Do it once, then dry it, then do the same area again after kneading the clay.
3) Pre wax cleaner or polish (I use a Porter Cable electric DA with 3m polish, then swirl remover on foam pads, that takes days though). This step by a properly used machine is best.
4) wax. None of the FX or other unique waxes (they are great in the short run, but do not last as long as a proper carnuba wax). 100% Carnuba wax (soft or hard), or else Rejex (google it, not a wax, but better IMHO, over last winter it lasted much longer on my vehicles). Repeat. 2-3 layers. It will build up a bit. After 3 layers won't do anything.
Don't forget to wax the trunk and hood surround, and door jambs. The better wax job you have, the cleaner it will stay. I know some of this conflicts with 68ss350, but I don't agree with the Windex thing. The detail spray lubes well, not enough lubricant can be bad for the paint.
