Installing brake pads
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 534
From:
Installing brake pads
guy told me a couple weeks ago my brakes only had about 30% of the life left on them with doing no burnouts and I noticed at pepboys Ceramic brake package = $140 per axel (front and back) but ceramic brake pads themselves are a mere $30 ........ is this something anyone has done if so how hard is it , any install guides for the S197 and how long thanks.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,319
From:
RE: Installing brake pads
You should go with ceramic pads, that what comes from the factory. I just installed new Ford pads on the rear of my '06 GT. I also put on new Centric rotors. It's not hard EXCEPT you need the tool to get the pistons back into the calipers. I got a loaner tool set from Advance Auto Parts, I had to give them a $106 deposit, but got every penny back when I returned it.
The tool has an adapter that allows you to turn the piston in (clockwise) while at the same time exerting a push on the piston.. I would nor recommend trying it without this tool. It is possible to break the caliper. The front calipers are the type you just push the piston in, no turning. The same tool kit will do that too.
When I did mine, I installed a set of Russell "Speed Bleeder" screws in all 4 calipers. I wanted to flush & bleed the system. This was the best money I ever spent, I think the screws were like $10 a pair from Summit Racing. If you bleed your brakes, be very careful not to run the master cylinder dry. If you get air into the ABS unit, you have to take the car to Ford to get it bled out. My brakes feel better than when the car was new.
The tool has an adapter that allows you to turn the piston in (clockwise) while at the same time exerting a push on the piston.. I would nor recommend trying it without this tool. It is possible to break the caliper. The front calipers are the type you just push the piston in, no turning. The same tool kit will do that too.
When I did mine, I installed a set of Russell "Speed Bleeder" screws in all 4 calipers. I wanted to flush & bleed the system. This was the best money I ever spent, I think the screws were like $10 a pair from Summit Racing. If you bleed your brakes, be very careful not to run the master cylinder dry. If you get air into the ABS unit, you have to take the car to Ford to get it bled out. My brakes feel better than when the car was new.
s197 Junkie
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,088
From: IN
RE: Installing brake pads
i doubt they are ceramic pads from the factory...i didnt pay much attention to the stockers but cant believe theywere ceramic.
Hawks HPS are generally what most people replace them with. Very nice pads.
EDIT: The pads ARE NOT ceramic just like i thought. They are Motorcraft Part #BR1081 and BR1082. Just run of the mill organic pads.
Hawks HPS are generally what most people replace them with. Very nice pads.
EDIT: The pads ARE NOT ceramic just like i thought. They are Motorcraft Part #BR1081 and BR1082. Just run of the mill organic pads.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 534
From:
RE: Installing brake pads
ORIGINAL: Goldenpony
You should go with ceramic pads, that what comes from the factory. I just installed new Ford pads on the rear of my '06 GT. I also put on new Centric rotors. It's not hard EXCEPT you need the tool to get the pistons back into the calipers. I got a loaner tool set from Advance Auto Parts, I had to give them a $106 deposit, but got every penny back when I returned it.
The tool has an adapter that allows you to turn the piston in (clockwise) while at the same time exerting a push on the piston.. I would nor recommend trying it without this tool. It is possible to break the caliper. The front calipers are the type you just push the piston in, no turning. The same tool kit will do that too.
When I did mine, I installed a set of Russell "Speed Bleeder" screws in all 4 calipers. I wanted to flush & bleed the system. This was the best money I ever spent, I think the screws were like $10 a pair from Summit Racing. If you bleed your brakes, be very careful not to run the master cylinder dry. If you get air into the ABS unit, you have to take the car to Ford to get it bled out. My brakes feel better than when the car was new.
You should go with ceramic pads, that what comes from the factory. I just installed new Ford pads on the rear of my '06 GT. I also put on new Centric rotors. It's not hard EXCEPT you need the tool to get the pistons back into the calipers. I got a loaner tool set from Advance Auto Parts, I had to give them a $106 deposit, but got every penny back when I returned it.
The tool has an adapter that allows you to turn the piston in (clockwise) while at the same time exerting a push on the piston.. I would nor recommend trying it without this tool. It is possible to break the caliper. The front calipers are the type you just push the piston in, no turning. The same tool kit will do that too.
When I did mine, I installed a set of Russell "Speed Bleeder" screws in all 4 calipers. I wanted to flush & bleed the system. This was the best money I ever spent, I think the screws were like $10 a pair from Summit Racing. If you bleed your brakes, be very careful not to run the master cylinder dry. If you get air into the ABS unit, you have to take the car to Ford to get it bled out. My brakes feel better than when the car was new.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,778
From: Harrisburg PA
RE: Installing brake pads
ORIGINAL: CapitalG
total install time ?
total install time ?
Steps:
- Jack the car and remove the wheels
- Each caliper is held on by 2 bolts - I think they are 12mm in front and 13mm in rear (don't quote me). One top, one bottom
- On the Front, pull out the bolts and then wiggle the caliper off.
- Tie or hang the caliper with twine or wire so that no pressure is put on the brake line. You can hang it from the Spring.
- Using the brake tool, push the two pistons into the caliper body. Go slow, you are pushing brake fluid back into the lines and master cylinder
- The two pads will pull right out, no bolts or screws. Just wiggle them out. Note their orientation.
- Don't loose the little tin shims, one top one bottom
- Put the new pads in the same way
- Put the caliper back on and bolt it in. I'm sure their is a torque spec on the two bolts but I just snug them up real tight, don't get all gorilla on it
- Go to the Rear, make sure the E brake is off
- The rears are different. There is a single piston and it must be screwed clockwise into the caliper body. This is where the brake tool is so needed. There are two indents in the piston, you need to find the matching piece from the brake kit. The kit will contain a wide variety of discs with protruding pins, one of them will match up with the piston.Screw the piston in while putting pressure on it until it bottoms out.
- The rest is the same as the front
Although not strictly needed with street pads, its a good idea to bed the new pads to the rotors. What you want to do is gradually get the pads hot. On the Hawk web site they have the full procedure but its pretty simple. Start out at a moderate speed, say 40-50 MPH and then brake down to ~10-15. Don't jam on the brakes but apply consistent, firm pressure. Do this a few times. Then take it up to about 70-80 and do the same 5 times. Then park the car for 20-30 min, until the rotors are not scalding hot (wet finger test). Now you are good to go. This will actually transfer some of the brake pad material to the rotors and provide: less wear, better and quieter braking.
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 42
From:
RE: Installing brake pads
I used to manage a service dept. at a Pep Boys, get the store brand ceramics-not the Raybestos! Have installed them on 100's of customer cars and never had a complaint. Would have problems with other brands being noisy or warping rotors, never an issue with those!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 154
From:
RE: Installing brake pads
ORIGINAL: Goldenpony
You should go with ceramic pads, that what comes from the factory. I just installed new Ford pads on the rear of my '06 GT. I also put on new Centric rotors. It's not hard EXCEPT you need the tool to get the pistons back into the calipers. I got a loaner tool set from Advance Auto Parts, I had to give them a $106 deposit, but got every penny back when I returned it.
The tool has an adapter that allows you to turn the piston in (clockwise) while at the same time exerting a push on the piston.. I would nor recommend trying it without this tool. It is possible to break the caliper. The front calipers are the type you just push the piston in, no turning. The same tool kit will do that too.
When I did mine, I installed a set of Russell "Speed Bleeder" screws in all 4 calipers. I wanted to flush & bleed the system. This was the best money I ever spent, I think the screws were like $10 a pair from Summit Racing. If you bleed your brakes, be very careful not to run the master cylinder dry. If you get air into the ABS unit, you have to take the car to Ford to get it bled out. My brakes feel better than when the car was new.
You should go with ceramic pads, that what comes from the factory. I just installed new Ford pads on the rear of my '06 GT. I also put on new Centric rotors. It's not hard EXCEPT you need the tool to get the pistons back into the calipers. I got a loaner tool set from Advance Auto Parts, I had to give them a $106 deposit, but got every penny back when I returned it.
The tool has an adapter that allows you to turn the piston in (clockwise) while at the same time exerting a push on the piston.. I would nor recommend trying it without this tool. It is possible to break the caliper. The front calipers are the type you just push the piston in, no turning. The same tool kit will do that too.
When I did mine, I installed a set of Russell "Speed Bleeder" screws in all 4 calipers. I wanted to flush & bleed the system. This was the best money I ever spent, I think the screws were like $10 a pair from Summit Racing. If you bleed your brakes, be very careful not to run the master cylinder dry. If you get air into the ABS unit, you have to take the car to Ford to get it bled out. My brakes feel better than when the car was new.
hey golden, in my shop we did some vehicles that didnt require this special tool you speak of, would a plain old run of the mill C-Clamp do the trick for the front and back?
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 534
From:
RE: Installing brake pads
ORIGINAL: Argonaut
I've done this enough times now that from start to finish swapping 4 pads takes less than 1 hour (including jacking the car up and cleaning up afterwards). Your first time however will probably take longer. +1 on renting the Disk Brake kit from AutoZone or Advanced, it really does make the task much easier. +1 on the Hawk HPS pads for the street - a little more torque than the stock pads but not overly dusty or noisy.
Steps:
- Jack the car and remove the wheels
- Each caliper is held on by 2 bolts - I think they are 12mm in front and 13mm in rear (don't quote me). One top, one bottom
- On the Front, pull out the bolts and then wiggle the caliper off.
- Tie or hang the caliper with twine or wire so that no pressure is put on the brake line. You can hang it from the Spring.
- Using the brake tool, push the two pistons into the caliper body. Go slow, you are pushing brake fluid back into the lines and master cylinder
- The two pads will pull right out, no bolts or screws. Just wiggle them out. Note their orientation.
- Don't loose the little tin shims, one top one bottom
- Put the new pads in the same way
- Put the caliper back on and bolt it in. I'm sure their is a torque spec on the two bolts but I just snug them up real tight, don't get all gorilla on it
- Go to the Rear, make sure the E brake is off
- The rears are different. There is a single piston and it must be screwed clockwise into the caliper body. This is where the brake tool is so needed. There are two indents in the piston, you need to find the matching piece from the brake kit. The kit will contain a wide variety of discs with protruding pins, one of them will match up with the piston.Screw the piston in while putting pressure on it until it bottoms out.
- The rest is the same as the front
Although not strictly needed with street pads, its a good idea to bed the new pads to the rotors. What you want to do is gradually get the pads hot. On the Hawk web site they have the full procedure but its pretty simple. Start out at a moderate speed, say 40-50 MPH and then brake down to ~10-15. Don't jam on the brakes but apply consistent, firm pressure. Do this a few times. Then take it up to about 70-80 and do the same 5 times. Then park the car for 20-30 min, until the rotors are not scalding hot (wet finger test). Now you are good to go. This will actually transfer some of the brake pad material to the rotors and provide: less wear, better and quieter braking.
ORIGINAL: CapitalG
total install time ?
total install time ?
Steps:
- Jack the car and remove the wheels
- Each caliper is held on by 2 bolts - I think they are 12mm in front and 13mm in rear (don't quote me). One top, one bottom
- On the Front, pull out the bolts and then wiggle the caliper off.
- Tie or hang the caliper with twine or wire so that no pressure is put on the brake line. You can hang it from the Spring.
- Using the brake tool, push the two pistons into the caliper body. Go slow, you are pushing brake fluid back into the lines and master cylinder
- The two pads will pull right out, no bolts or screws. Just wiggle them out. Note their orientation.
- Don't loose the little tin shims, one top one bottom
- Put the new pads in the same way
- Put the caliper back on and bolt it in. I'm sure their is a torque spec on the two bolts but I just snug them up real tight, don't get all gorilla on it
- Go to the Rear, make sure the E brake is off
- The rears are different. There is a single piston and it must be screwed clockwise into the caliper body. This is where the brake tool is so needed. There are two indents in the piston, you need to find the matching piece from the brake kit. The kit will contain a wide variety of discs with protruding pins, one of them will match up with the piston.Screw the piston in while putting pressure on it until it bottoms out.
- The rest is the same as the front
Although not strictly needed with street pads, its a good idea to bed the new pads to the rotors. What you want to do is gradually get the pads hot. On the Hawk web site they have the full procedure but its pretty simple. Start out at a moderate speed, say 40-50 MPH and then brake down to ~10-15. Don't jam on the brakes but apply consistent, firm pressure. Do this a few times. Then take it up to about 70-80 and do the same 5 times. Then park the car for 20-30 min, until the rotors are not scalding hot (wet finger test). Now you are good to go. This will actually transfer some of the brake pad material to the rotors and provide: less wear, better and quieter braking.