Brake Pad Install Help
I bought some Hawk HPS pads front and rear and some ATE superblue to replace my stock pads/fluid in my 08 GT. I tried to install them last night, but I had to bend the retaining clips to get the new pad inside the caliper and when i would try to bend them back, they would pop off every time. I'm guessing that I am not installing them correctly. Does anybody have good instructions with pictures on how to install new pads in an S197? I have the caliper compression tool and everything else, I just need to know how to get the new pads in without having to bend the tabs. Do you think the local ford dealer would change out the pads and fluid for me, or will they avoid it because of warranty? Thanks in advance.
Are we talking about the front or rear 'retaining clips'? Or both?
When you say retaining clips are you referring to the small, silver spring clips, 2 per caliper - one on top of the pad, one on the bottom?
Look at the following diagram, the spring clips are #4, are these the ones you are bending?
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...diskbrakes.pdf
I've swapped pads many times and have not needed to bend these. They do easily fall out and can be a pain to keep aligned while you insert the pad but if you need to bend them then perhaps something is misaligned.
Don't know about your warranty question: The stock fluid is DOT3. ATE SuperBlue is DOT4...so, they might. In fact, if you read the following it specifically says only use DOT3: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...m-bleeding.pdf
Personally I use ATE superblue and so do many, many road racers.
When you say retaining clips are you referring to the small, silver spring clips, 2 per caliper - one on top of the pad, one on the bottom?
Look at the following diagram, the spring clips are #4, are these the ones you are bending?
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...diskbrakes.pdf
I've swapped pads many times and have not needed to bend these. They do easily fall out and can be a pain to keep aligned while you insert the pad but if you need to bend them then perhaps something is misaligned.
Don't know about your warranty question: The stock fluid is DOT3. ATE SuperBlue is DOT4...so, they might. In fact, if you read the following it specifically says only use DOT3: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...m-bleeding.pdf
Personally I use ATE superblue and so do many, many road racers.
The wires that come on the brake pads themselves are what kept popping off. They are not labled in that diagram, but they are right where the number 3 is pointing. I could install the pad closest to the inside of the car without having to bend the wires, but on the outer pad, i had to bend them. I just need some pictures of an install so i can figure out what I am doing wrong. The only bolts I took out during the install were the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Do I have to take out the pins with the funny wavy bolt pattern that holds the two pieces of caliper together? If so where can I get a socket that will fit it?
ORIGINAL: jahudso2
The wires that come on the brake pads themselves are what kept popping off. They are not labled in that diagram, but they are right where the number 3 is pointing. I could install the pad closest to the inside of the car without having to bend the wires, but on the outer pad, i had to bend them. I just need some pictures of an install so i can figure out what I am doing wrong. The only bolts I took out during the install were the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Do I have to take out the pins with the funny wavy bolt pattern that holds the two pieces of caliper together? If so where can I get a socket that will fit it?
The wires that come on the brake pads themselves are what kept popping off. They are not labled in that diagram, but they are right where the number 3 is pointing. I could install the pad closest to the inside of the car without having to bend the wires, but on the outer pad, i had to bend them. I just need some pictures of an install so i can figure out what I am doing wrong. The only bolts I took out during the install were the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Do I have to take out the pins with the funny wavy bolt pattern that holds the two pieces of caliper together? If so where can I get a socket that will fit it?
Those wires are important because they keep the pad from dragging on the rotor. Bending them is ok as long as they are doing their job of pulling the pad away from the rotor. But if one is popping off...thats not good.
I don't have any pictures. I will be changing the pads within the next few days because I have a track event next weekend. If you can wait a few days I can take some.
Else:
- Undo the two bolts (#1) holding the caliper (#2) on onto the anchor plate, push the caliper to the side (support it with a wire or cord so it doesn't hang on the brake line). Note - these are the only bolts you remove.
- Push the pistons in using the brake tool
- Pull the old pads out of Brake Caliper anchor plate (#6)
- Make sure the spring clips are in place top and bottom of the anchor plate
- I put the inside pad in first. Wiggle it in. The wires push against the outside of the anchor plate and act to pull the pad away from the rotor
- Then I put the outside pad in.
- Make sure the orientation is correct, i.e. not in backwards
If one of the wires keeps popping off you either need to fix it or get a new pad. I had this happen, I fixed it with a Dremel tool to grind a little more seat (more depth) into the prong that the wire mounts to and then bent the wire (squeezed the little loop that goes arount the mounting prong on the back of the pad)a bit with pliers so it was a snugger fit.
Hope this helps.
Yes pictures would help a ton if you have an extra minute to take some during your next install. I don't need these pads in until the 19th, so I have all next week. Thanke for the help!
I had the same problem installing mine. I managed to break a clip in the process. I asked many and no answer, so as any good shade tree mech I just finished installing the pads and I havent had any problems. Now that is not to say there isnt a problem with missing a clip.
jahudso2 here are your pictures.
Front brake brake with stock pads in, before removing the caliper:

After removal of the caliper. Notice the caliper in the background is suspended by a coat hanger, so the weight is not on the brake line. See how the wire springs act to pull the pad away from the caliper, this keeps the pad from dragging.

Rear caliper right after pulling the caliper off:

Front brake brake with stock pads in, before removing the caliper:

After removal of the caliper. Notice the caliper in the background is suspended by a coat hanger, so the weight is not on the brake line. See how the wire springs act to pull the pad away from the caliper, this keeps the pad from dragging.

Rear caliper right after pulling the caliper off:



