sailing220

So I'm in the middle of my UDP installation and I have a slight problem with my crank pulley bolt....I can't get it off.

Breaker bar, fail.

Impact wrench, fail. Might be because my compressor maxes out at 125 psi? Should this be enough?

It is a bit rusted, I tried some PB Blaster.


Anybody have any ideas?

DarkFireGT

Crank up the compressor as high as it goes, that's all I can tell you. While my compressor was filling, I tried a break bar. No way. Maybe if I could bench 300 lol. 125 PSI it kind of borderline. I think mine took about 130 or so, but with PB Blaster on it, you might be able to get it out with 125. Just crank it up, let the compressor fill fully, and lay into it.

acascianelli

I had the exact same problem. I ended up just taking it in and having it done.

svfetter

Some years ago I was putting UDPs on my 95 GT with an Auto. No Way to lock down the engine. I called my Buddy the Ford Mech and he told me to take my breaker bar and brace it against the floor and then Jog the starter to break loose the bolt. I stayed close enough to keep the socket and bar where they needed to be and my wife hit the starter for a split second. Worked first time.

Good Luck.

acascianelli

I've heard of people doing this before and it does seem to work, but I can't help but think that this is an incredibly dangerous idea.

sailing220

That sounds really really dangerous, but if that becomes my only option we'll see.

I've hit it about 20 times with 125 psi but no luck. Any other ideas?

DarkFireGT

Go rent a bigger compressor[sm=bounceybounce.gif]

It's either that or let someone else do it. You've already spent your own time on it, might as well finish. My breaker tripped 8 times trying to get mine up to 130-135 lol, but it worked.

acascianelli

I had a local Mustang shop (Alternative Auto) install mine, they only charged me $90.

crazystylin

I happened to have taken off my crank pulley last night while installing my s/c. I used a 220 volt compressor and impact gun while in 4th gear. Stuck the impact gun on and at first it was slow going, clicking, and rotating the bolt off centimeter by centimeter held it on for bout 30 secnods and finally it loosened up and popped out.

SO the 220 compressor worked for me. I assume if you were to take it to any shop they would use at least that.

Also, if you get the bolt undone but it is still threaded, work the rest of it by hand or with a socket as the impact gun could damage the threading upon exit.

Hope this helps.

sailing220

Well, my install is complete!

No, I didn't rent a bigger compressor. Nor did I use the one I have to break the bolt. I took the idea of bracing the breaker bar against the floor and refined it into something a little safer. I put the breaker bar on the bolt with the handle sticking straight up. Next I took a large pipe and put it perpandicular to the bar, laying on the radiator cover. I put the end between the alternator and the drivers side valve cover, securing it against the breaker bar. I held it tight on the other end while a friend jogged the starter. Worked perfectly, used an air ratchet to thread it out, and continued with my install.


Seeing as I have an automatic, I needed to hold the torque converter while my friend torqued the crank bolt. My god was this a pain in the a$$. Not that it was hard to hold, but my long tubes take up the ENTIRE area in front of the TC access hole. [:@] We did finally get them torqued, and the rest was cake, but be warned if you have long tube headers and plan on installing UDPs on an automatic.

Took it for a drive after the install and there is a noticeable difference in how fast the engine revs into the power band, and also in low end torque. Top end power feels a little better, but not by much. I would definately recommend these to anybody who plans on keeping their motor n/a, but do them with CMDPs and other small mods or you won't feel the different right away.