Made my own, damn, adjustable panhard bar!
#1
Made my own, damn, adjustable panhard bar!
That's right!
I bought the Steeda and it was a big mistake for two reasons:
-One, is that the adjustments are located at the extremities.
Witch is just retarded because you can't put a wrench on the chassis side to loosen
the jam nut. Thus, you have to slide that side off.
-The second reason, is that I can do this bar for $20 in parts!!
I used my OEM bar and cut it in a half but not in the middle.
It's hollow and filled with some kind of pellets for strength.
Anyway, I bought a .3/4" threaded rod with a 2.1/2" threaded sleeve and 2 jam nuts.
I removed about 5 inches off the OEM length of the bar.
Then I cut two pieces off the threaded rod of about 4 inches each and slid them into the 2 halves of the bar.
I lined up the improvised pieces together on the floor against my trim gauge for measurements. I needed to be about 7/16 shorter than the overall OEM length of the panhard bar. That way, I have the adjustment required to elongate accordingly when the job's done.
Once I measured 5 times (lol) against my trim gauge and mark how much of threaded rod I needed to slip in the halves, I put the pellets back with a fennel and weld the rods.
Grind, file, and throw some paint, done.
I bought the Steeda and it was a big mistake for two reasons:
-One, is that the adjustments are located at the extremities.
Witch is just retarded because you can't put a wrench on the chassis side to loosen
the jam nut. Thus, you have to slide that side off.
-The second reason, is that I can do this bar for $20 in parts!!
I used my OEM bar and cut it in a half but not in the middle.
It's hollow and filled with some kind of pellets for strength.
Anyway, I bought a .3/4" threaded rod with a 2.1/2" threaded sleeve and 2 jam nuts.
I removed about 5 inches off the OEM length of the bar.
Then I cut two pieces off the threaded rod of about 4 inches each and slid them into the 2 halves of the bar.
I lined up the improvised pieces together on the floor against my trim gauge for measurements. I needed to be about 7/16 shorter than the overall OEM length of the panhard bar. That way, I have the adjustment required to elongate accordingly when the job's done.
Once I measured 5 times (lol) against my trim gauge and mark how much of threaded rod I needed to slip in the halves, I put the pellets back with a fennel and weld the rods.
Grind, file, and throw some paint, done.
Last edited by pascal; 10-04-2009 at 05:11 PM.
#4
Sorry guys, I got disrupted here...
My 9 year old tries to seat on my lap as I upload pics.
Here's the rest of the job.
I bought all the parts at LOWES by the way
My 9 year old tries to seat on my lap as I upload pics.
Here's the rest of the job.
I bought all the parts at LOWES by the way
Last edited by pascal; 10-04-2009 at 05:11 PM.
#8
No tapping, too thin to do so...
I just welded a bead around the threaded piece to secure it in place where it meets the tube
Look at picture # 2 and 4 on the first post.
You can see that it's welded.
The fourth pic shows one side welded and one not.
I AM SORRY, AS I AM NOT TACO BILL!!
The pellets are there for strength under load.
It won't kink, only bend in a worse case scenario...
#9
oh....ok now i see...in pic four it wasnt welded yet!...when u lower it how do u kno how much u need 2 adjust the length...do i level down b4 w/ stock springs 2 see how far the tires are set in from the fender?
#10
Use ramps, so you can get underneath and turn the sleeve until your axle is centered (eyeball it for now).
Tighten your jam nuts and test drive it.
When you do, back up quick and step hard on your brakes to make the back end dive.
Check your adjustments again and correct if necessary.
You prolly won't get it right the first time...