Ok I plan to do a little suspension work soon, so I want to figure out all the parts I need. I don't need some super drag racing set up, just trying to get a nice stance for the stang.

I plan on going with staggered 18" wheels if it matters...

- Eibach Pro-kit or similar springs

- Tokico HP/D-Spec shocks/struts (I'm getting one or the other. How is the ride feel with the HPs seeing as they are non-adjustable?)

- Rear Swaybar (Hellwig or BMR...does it matter?)

- Front Swaybar...is it worth it? Does the non-PP V6 come with it standard?

- Adj. Panhard Bar...do I need one? What is it?

- Panhard Brace...do I need one? What is it?

- Caster Camber Plates...do I need them? What are they?

^^Just need a brief description of these parts from someone knowledgable on the subject.

Thanks guys!

 

Caster/Camber plates fix this:



This usually happens when you lower your car / change wheel size.

 

Also LCA relocation brackets or adjustable UCA.

 

here is a great suspension overview from another forum that should help. I was in the same boat a couple months back and this really helped me make more informed decisions...

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=447906

 

You will need the panhard bar to re-center the rear axle if you plan on going with a staggered set of wheels. Trust me (20x10s with 275/35/R20s in the back). I went with the adjustable BMR panhard bar from Stangsuspension.com. You can PM StangSuspension for a discount member price.

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store...idproduct=1102

I got it for $125 shipped to my door with the sale price and the mustangforums discount.

I did not need caster/camber plates when I went to get my car re-aligned after lowering it, because the camber was within factory specifications. Not a bad idea though.

You'll want new shocks/struts...Lord knows I do.

 

Okay here's my .02 on the issue.

Prokit springs are a pretty good spring, just depends on what you like, but that's what I have.

D-specs are nice. Variable with adequate adjustment. Had them on the GT before the coil overs in the front. However, when I lowered my GT500 i used the Shelby Performance lowering package and it came with tuned Eibach Shocks and struts, I have been pleasantly suprised!

Sway bars for the front and back on your car would probably improve handling (don't have a 6er so I have no frame of reference). I think the GT ones are even better then the stock 6er's. Perhaps New Takeoffs??

Panhard bar and brace may or may not be necessary to square the rear end. Many have lowered their cars with out needing them. Just depends on how square it is to start with. You may want to lower the car first and see if it's necessary.

Panhard brace.....most likely you don't need it.

Cast and camber plates are nice but can be a pain and as was mentioned may be unncesseary. Look into camber bolts as an easy option if required.

Relocation Brackets or adjustable third link (upper control arm). You should do this to re-set your pinion angle, it will be off from lowering.

Upper strut tower mounts. I would consider this when doing the springs and struts in the front. Helps avoid that popping sound from the factory mounts common on lowered cars. I have steeda on my GT500 and was glad I went that route.

Hope that helps a little.

 

Why would you need to re-center the axle if you get larger wheels than stock on the rear of the car?

 

When you lower the car with a fixed panhard bar it may move over and not center over the back wheels (just depends on how centered it was to begin with). It is more apparent when you have staggered or larger wheels in the back. DFepending on how large the wheels they may not fit properly.

 

If the car isn't lowered and you have larger rear wheels than the stock ones then you don't have to worry about that?

 

Not unless your car wasn't centered to begin with. If you look at it from behind and can't visually see a problem (one wheel is closer to the wheel well then the wheel on the other side) and you have no issue with fitment you should be good to go!

Odds are your fine!