Hey guys,

I've finally gone out and done a little ground work. Since I have the Shaker 500, my vehicle's abit twitch when it comes to sound. I replaced my head unit yesterday with a Pioneer AVIC-F700BT. Next is to replace the doors and rears. My buddy is trying to convince me to go with components, Alpine Type-S specifically, in the front, and just some coax Type-S's for rear fill. I'm not really interested in installing a 4-way at this time, so he said that Type-R's aren't a good idea unless I go for a 4-way amp. He also said that the best thing to do would be to bypass the door subs (because all they're really doing right now is rattling the crap out for my doors), and install an old JL I have sitting around in a trunk box. Anyone have any ideas as to whether these would be good suggestions? I found the PDF to remove the door panels, but how do I do a bypass on the subs and add components? Also, what size does best for our cars in front and back? Thanks!

 

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile...Navigation.pdf

 

Look into a set of components for the front. Some brands you could look into are Image Dynamics, CDT, Hertz, Alpine just to name a few. There's no need for new rear speakers. To get the most out of your components you should look into a amp to run them.

 

Thanks for the link to the wiring diagram. I'm really horrible at figuring out what to do with that sort of thing though. Do I just not plug the amplifier pre-outs going to the deck in or what? How horrible will it sound without an amplifier? Like I said, I'm not a HUGE audio guru, I just don't like my doors rattling off and my notes all over the place. I'm a lot bigger on mid-range and treble.

 

It won't sound bad if you run the components off the headunit but it will sound better if you run the components off a amp because the amp will provide better power. You would want to try and match the RMS of the components to the RMS of a amp. For example if a set of components can handle 170 watts RMS you would want a amp that can provide around 170 watts RMS. Headunits can't provide that type of power. Headunits might have a peak of 60 watts or something but the RMS would be lower then that. To get the most out of your components they need adequate power. For rattling and road noise you can deaden your doors with Second Skin Damplifier or Damplifier Pro. You could also look into Dynamat as well. Hope that helps I'm pretty much a noob to car audio as well.

 

[QUOTE=Xeremeh;6119329]Hey guys,

I've finally gone out and done a little ground work. Since I have the Shaker 500, my vehicle's abit twitch when it comes to sound. QUOTE]


Okay, I have a question. Please don't laugh at me, I know pretty much nothing about cars, but I'm attempting to learn. Ha ha. So, I just got an 09 but it doesn't come with the Shaker, it comes with the most basic sound system it could come with. How would I go about replacing the sound system I have now with the Shaker and how much would it cost? Because the speakers actually come out of the door, correct? Well my door is just...well a door. No hole or whatever for the speaker. Help? =]

 

[QUOTE=dangggjackie;6120770]The speakers are behind the door, the whole panel comes off and there under there. Next, do not worry about updating to the shaker 500 headunit it does nothing special. Buy a completly new aftermarket headunit.

 

To op, go with a component setup, and yes ditch the door subs and put a sub in a box in the trunk and run the sub to a dedicated monoblock. If you go with passive crossovers, you can get away with just a front stage on a 2 channel amp. Now if you were going active, you would need a 4 way amp for all that.

Any rattles that may arise from the upgraded sound, as said, can be fixed with a sound deadener, such as dynamat.

Your amp will run a power, ground, and remote wire, then a set of component cables from the amp to the headunit, and then your speakers will connect to the amp as well.

It's really not as hard as it all sounds to wire up systems. I've been working on slowly installing stuff all week in my stang, and this is by far one of the easiest to wire up cars ever.

Edit: i have a set of phoenix gold 6.5" comps, they are like the budget grade **** when i bought them. They were $75 brand new, but there amazing components. They had awesome reviews on all kinds of boards. That was probably like a year ago, so im sure there is better but there what im installing.

Also you will need 6x8 adapter plates to install 6.5" component speakers. Ford uses a 6x8 speaker design, these will allow you to mount the 6.5" midbass where the stock 6x8 speaker is. Then the tweeters just mount in the door. Under door handle or next to door handle are best places. Just drill a hole and mount em up.

Search up Schosch (or whatever that brand is) SA68 on ebay. I just ordered a pair for like $15 shipped or so.

 

HAHAHA apparently you didn't run new speaker wires to the doors....everything was easy except that.

I had to remove my doors to do it correctly.

 

You need the 2-4 amps as well as the shaker 500 or 100 headunit as
well as the door and/or trunk speakers. The wiring thats missing is next.
Its junkyard time if you can find one that will let you strip them, yes there
are many needed, out of a 500 or 100 equipped stang. You will then have
what others have found to be junk and have swapped out for a real, not OEM
headunit and real, not OEM amps and speakers.
JL Audio is quality and the friendly salemen at Crutchfield.com
can sell you the right stuff for an easy installation.