goin to start putting my headers on just a little each night when i get home form work cause i cant wait anymore haha, so any last min tips would be nice, also whaty is a good l upe to break away the rust im goin to go to autozone to get something thanks guys

 

If you have access to air tools the faster the install. I would personally recomend PB Blaster on the bolts after the manifolds, those were the only ones I had trouble getting off.

And if you are wondering if you can still use the che torque brace, and yes it fit with my kooks headers...

Good luck, throw me a pm if you have any other questions.

 

How much did you guys pay for headers? last i saw shorties were going for ~300+ but kooks lts were 1300... I could manage to spend 500 or less but 1300 is a bit up there for headers and a x/h

 

you can get MAC LT's for under $500.

 

i got my mac LTs for 469 from brenspeed and they are ceramic coated,

i did get bp blaster and glad the che will still fit, and i do have air tools what did you use

 

Required List:
1. PB Blaster
2. Mechanic's Gloves
3. 1/2" or 13mm ratcheting wrench for stock manifold bolts and whatever your new header bolt size is
4. Lots of extensions and swivels
5. I recommend putting the front wheels on ramps. Then when you move the steering rack, you dont have to worry about your steering being off centered.
6. Jack stands for rear axle
7. Jack and phone books to jack up the engine to remove motor mount bracket.
8. 4.5mm socket for header studs. (dont try a 5mm if you dont want stripped studs)
9. 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm shallow and deep sockets
10. blue locktite

 

I did everything by hand. I helped KLO install his headers about a month ago, it took us about 10 hours. We had to do some bending and what not though. When I installed my MAC's...by myslef...it took me every night after work for 3-4 hours. total 22 hours. You should be fine though. I had to custom weld in my prochamber because of the side exhaust. Take your time and stay calm and it will go smoothly.

 

One thing that helped me with my install was an adjustable 13mm combo wrench here is the link..
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?keyword=13mm

Unfortunately I did not have access to air tools, so I did it all by hand.

For the socket extension I bought a 24" extension (from autozone for $12) for the motor mounts to be removed but if you have a few 10" extensions you should be fine.

The o2 sensor extension went on the passengers side (at least for my car)
For the drivers side just remove off the clip WAY up the block (hope you have a small hand..) and I was able to install it on the bell housing with the push pin supplied on the factory o2 mount.

The final install of the H/X/ or pro chamber install I used a floor jack to prop up the rear pipes to the correct level.


Good luck the install is a good time consumer/ fun challenge. I would do it again.

 

the only thing i not crazy about is movin the engine mount on the pass side

 

RATCHETING BOX WRENCHES!!! Will save you so much time and frustration when doing the starter and all the header bolts. Don't say I didn't warn ya.

Kyle- I'll be getting everything all fixed up and welded together in the next coming weeks. I can't wait to have it all done and move on to gears. Lol