Intake Manifold
#1
Intake Manifold
I was wondering if one is in the works or if anyone has heard anything of a potential manufacturer of this? The plastic has got to go and replaced with hp added metal. While were on this how bout a new set of high performance heads?
#2
RE: Intake Manifold
Have not heard of anyone doing an aftermarket plenium, but there are a couple of people doing porting and polishing on heads, and have also seen one person talking about actually having cams installed. Just wait it out and let them work the tuning and the bugs out before you go shopping.
#7
RE: Intake Manifold
ORIGINAL: flyingt
I was wondering if one is in the works or if anyone has heard anything of a potential manufacturer of this? The plastic has got to go and replaced with hp added metal. While were on this how bout a new set of high performance heads?
I was wondering if one is in the works or if anyone has heard anything of a potential manufacturer of this? The plastic has got to go and replaced with hp added metal. While were on this how bout a new set of high performance heads?
Hi flyingt,
From what Ford has told their technology partners the stock intake system is good for up to 425HP in a N.A. motor. So unless you are going to build a stroker motor from your 4.6l modular motor the plastic intake will flow more than you will need unless you are going to really push it The current problem is in the 3V heads themselves and this can be fixed with standard port matching, bowl work and polishing. Most people are getting 40-45HP at the wheels out of this work, I doubt that cams will show too much of an improvement, 10-12HP tops. Of course this all assumes that you are working with a 281CID engine and that you are running all motor, no power-adders. If you have a supercharged (crank or exhaust driven pump), all bets are off. But, all of your bolt-on work will yield results over a stock engine with the addition of a blower. From what I can tell a N.A. 281CID engine with 400HP at the crank is possible if you do the all the bolt-ons out there and P&P the heads. A cam that takes advantage of the variable cam timming will push you up to and past the 400HP mark at the crank but you will probably be giving up some bottom end torque at that point. I'm at 297RWHP on a Mustang Dyno right now so I think it's safe to say that I've got about 350HP at the crank. I've installed a Steeda CAI with Diablo Tunner and a custom tune-up done with my car on the rollers. I've also installed JBA headers with Magnaflow Tru-X Pipe with OBDII compliant cats and JBA rear mufflers. Up next is to install SHM's UD crank pulley, electric water pump from Meziere, Steeda's CMCP plates and P&P the heads by Livernois, this ought to have the little 4.6L pushing the 400HP boundry pretty hard.
20 years ago this was a race level HP/displacement ratio. Today it's just bolt-ons!
#9
RE: Intake Manifold
My answer would be from forced induction.. you see when you make internal changed you mess with the mechanism and tolerances of the metal. these changes can adversely effect the clearance of heads, pistons, valves.. Add to that under extreme conditions... For forced induction you are using air... breathable healthy air from the earth... stuff we breath... and your helping your car breath... thats whats its all about
#10
RE: Intake Manifold
ORIGINAL: flyingt
Now what are the thoughts of the engine lasting longer with remaining N.A. and using bolt ons versus forced induction?? Whats a more trusted set-up?
Now what are the thoughts of the engine lasting longer with remaining N.A. and using bolt ons versus forced induction?? Whats a more trusted set-up?
Hey flyingt,
The more power you make the less relable the car will be in general terms. This does not take into account that tunning a blown engine is vital to an engine's life span and its power potential. I like N.A. motors for road courses because the power is more "natural" feeling and blowers for the strip for their more brutal torque. Also be aware that with a blown engine making more than 450HP be prepared to replace the bottom end (and potentially the block), a lot sooner than later if you use that power very often. The stress of a NA engine is gentler and less violent because they don't have the torque hit of a supercharged engine so less stuff gets bent. People will tell you that they have a supercharged this or that engine and that they drove it 100,000 miles without a problem. I'd say those people don't have a high output engine or they don't get on it enough to even bother with a blower. If you have an aluminum block and powder metal rods spinning on a cast crank it WILL break, it's just a matter of time and torque. Be carefull with your tune and don't go for max. power and as long as you are under 450 crank HP and you don't drive like an animal all the time you should be O.K. for a long time. When you do put a rod through the block be sure to replace it with a steel block, forged crank, forged rods and forged pistons with complete, deep ring lands designed for a supercharged engine. Then you can crank up the boost and make big HP without too much worrying about the bottom end comming apart again.
HTH