ok
whatever the case may be, im not worried about the rear right now, those tires are fine. I know I do need both the panhard bar and upper/lower arms but this is about the front end. The tires on the front are pretty much worn to a slick on the inner edge now.

 

??????????
Let the dis information fly at will....

I call BS on what the alignment machine is saying.
The machines are not gods and are wrong more times than right.
Either slot the holes OR buy the camber bolts, not both...

 

Combination of camber that's too far negative for the majority of your driving and toe that's almost certainly toe out (courtesy at least in part from the change in camber, not necessarily the alignment chap setting it wrong).

Do you use your brakes hard a lot?


Norm

 

almost thirty six thousand miles on original brakes with no pulsations/vibrations...so no, i am always downshifting to save the brakes

 

... so if i go to a different shop and tell them I do have the camber bolts installed and ask for a front end alignment (because you can't adjust the rear without a/m parts)

I should be all ok right ?

Because I am putting new tires on all four corners and want to make sure the alignment is perfect before i waste $800

 

Norm to the rescue, lol.

Ill toss in my 2 cents since lowered with the pro kit also.

After the new stuff was installed, we put er up on the alignment rack to check everything, knowing stuff would be out as we did the bump steer kit as well.
My drivers side camber was a little out of spec, and my passenger side was just in spec where I wanted it.
Install one camber bolt on the drivers side and all was merry.
All 4 of my tires are nearing the end of their life.
For the most part fairly even wear. The rears a little more down the center which is from yours truly and his lead foot, and the lack of the ability to rotate tires other than side to side.
The fronts have just a little more inside edge wear, not drastic tho. I will make it fine to the wear indicator bars on the tire before the edges are bald.
However, the passenger side inside is worn a smidge more that the drivers inside. Really hard to tell its that little difference.
Car tracks straight, and steering wheel straight.









The place that did your alignment must have been using an older machine where the beams go around the car 360 degrees and the chin spoiler was blocking the 2 front heads from seeing each other, makes perfect sense.

Our shop has one of the newest ones out there, uses "cameras" to see each alignment head.

 

What?
I would never 'downshift' to save brakes.
Brakes and rotors are much more easily replaced
and cheaper than a clutch replacement any
any day in my book. Clutches are not for slowing
down S197s. Maybe an 18 wheeler with
with undersized brakes for the loads incured.
But a 3750LB S197 mustang with 12.5" front and
and 11" read DISC brakes, no.

 

It all works out well when you plan to upgrade the clutch anyways. And rev matching doesnt wear the clutch so bad ! Do you have any input on my alignment problem ?

 

I'll drop it down into 4th on a long, moderately steep downgrade just to keep the speed from creeping up. I'm not one to either ride the brakes or stab at them repeatedly (hoping that the guy behind me stays on top of the speed changes).

The reason I asked about braking was to find out if the front tires under discussion were being subjected to additional load and bump travel, with the accompanying increments of negative camber and toe in. Hard braking + even less favorable alignment = worse wear.


Norm

 

Yea, believe Norm....

Or use the search function as it has been answered before.....