2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.

How to avoid wheel hop?

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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 12:30 PM
  #1  
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Question How to avoid wheel hop?

I love the power my car has, especially now with the Brenspeed tune and Magnaflow axleback mufflers. What I don't like is the wheel hop I get sometimes. Besides the fact that it vibrates the car badly and costs you time, but I am afraid it is going to damage something. I thought newer cars have the rear axle mounts on either side of the axle which prevents hop. Doesn't Ford do this? More importantly, can it be eliminated without adversely effecting handling?

Joe
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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from what i have read, lower control arms in the rear should take care of most of it. They run anywhere from 100-400 depending on material and company. Hope this helps
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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Must be a 10 thing, my 07 didn’t have it and my 09 doesn’t.
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Rear lowers will help a ton. If you havent lowered your car, you will not need relocation brackets or a pan hard bar however I recommend the pan hard bar just becuase it helps with cornering and acceleration as well. Stay away from costly billet lower arms that use urethane on both ends as these do not allow for proper articulation of the rear axle housing. Go with a good set of light weight arms from either Progress or BMR. Use urethane on the chassis side, and rod end on the axle side to allow the axle to freely move like its supposed to. check out:

http://www.impulsecars.com/impulsecars/home.php?cat=388

These should easily take care of what you need. PM or e-mail me if you'd like. eric@impulsecars.com
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 07:22 PM
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Roush has this part out now...

Ford Mustang Wheel Hop Reduction Kit

I haven't used it personally, but it may do the trick for you.
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 12:54 AM
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Lowers control arms are part of the problem, the upper is also part of the problem, which is why Steeda offers the stop the hop pak.
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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I asked this on another thread but didn't get any answers:

Okay, so I am not a suspension guy. I am a Mechanical Engineer in the auto industry, but never worked on suspension.

On the LCA's, do the Mustang have these stock? If so, why do the aftermarket pieces work better? If not, does adding these LCA's effect the handling either positive or negative? Does it effect ride quality?

When my '10 GT does arrive, I would like to not have axle hop problems.

Thanks for info.
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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All S197's and 2010's have REAL BAD wheel hop problems. It's b/c of the lame LCAs that are level.

You need some good LCAs with relocation brackets. I installed some tubular ones from UMI. They're the cheapest (at least they were when I bought them) and just as good as any other brand. They work great and I highly recommend them.

Last edited by SirKnightTG; Oct 16, 2009 at 04:49 PM.
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=320


Cool, they still have the 20% off sale.
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FastDEW
I asked this on another thread but didn't get any answers:

Okay, so I am not a suspension guy. I am a Mechanical Engineer in the auto industry, but never worked on suspension.

On the LCA's, do the Mustang have these stock? If so, why do the aftermarket pieces work better? If not, does adding these LCA's effect the handling either positive or negative? Does it effect ride quality?

When my '10 GT does arrive, I would like to not have axle hop problems.

Thanks for info.
Two main reason the aftermarket LCA and UCA work better than stock is because

1) they use polyurethane instead of rubber for the bushings. The rubber in the stock arms helps to cushion the car and give a better ride but hurts performance.

Polyurethane gives better performance but can hurt ride quality (stiffer or more bumps being trasmitted to the passenger compartment).

2) The aftermarket arms are typically made of more rigid materials wheras the stock stuff is usually stamped steel. Stamped still is not very stiff. In this case they are cheaper to produce out of stamped steel than the aluminum or forged pieces the aftermarket offers.

Edit, just read about the Roush and Steeda wheel hop reduction kits. Intersting way to attack teh problem. Just replace the Trailing arm..hmmm. Still the same concept as UCA/LCA just going with the trailing arm instead.

Last edited by Derf00; Oct 16, 2009 at 05:05 PM.



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