BMR UCA, UCA mount, LCA Reloc brackets
Koni STR.T Shocks and struts
Agent 47 Double Barrel STB
and Fay's2 Watts link

 

i just installt the same shocks and struts i love them

 

So far the watts link has really helped with the going sideways when flooring it

the UCA/UCA Mount, LCA Reloc brackets have helped it be more firm when launching and the shocks and struts have improved it alot

its raining today so I didn't get a chance today to try taking some hard turns yet :-)

I need for it to dry off so I can have a little fun and try out the upgrades

 

damn, nice set up!

I need the same mods.. my GT has been tail happy ever since I installed the Vortech..

 

I may be wrong but a watts link keeps the rear end from moving from side to side as the rear end travels up and down over an uneven surface. It is far superior to the panhard rod that is stock. If you are spinning both tires under hard acceleration the rear end of the car will still "fishtail" based on the inertia of the car and the pitch of the road. There may be a slight amount of additional traction with a Watts link but if you got a ton of power them tires will spin. So Watts link or not it's gonna fishtail. One of the major issues is fishtailing with stock suspension. I did that one time and almost ended up in a ditch. so I upgraded all the rear components. Shocks, springs, control arms, relocate brackets, and a really stiff sway bar. This eliminated the body roll and made the fishtail completely controllable. Now it's just a pleasure to power through corners in a controlled slide using the throttle to steer the car.

 

The Watts link and the panhard have the same purpus in life. The watts link manages to get the job done without making the axle move side to side as the body moves up and down. A stiffer rod makes this action worse, but stabalizes rebound. A watts link does not have this problem.

the drive shaft rotates one way, the equal and opposite reaction is the axle moves the other. The force of the axle rotating (or wanting to rotate) unevenly weights the rear tires during the "instant center" transfer of weight. Traction is based on weight and coefficient of friction, so one tire will have more traction then the other and you will still have torque steer. Most of it being fixed is in your head. That said, a properly adjusted air bag on the proper spring will help. A torsion rod would help considerably more (thats the idea behind the BMR drag launch kit)

Anyway, to the op. Great stuff there. For a road car, that is going to be a hard to beat suspension. The drag launch kit works great for just that, but limits the articulation of the axle, making the rear end way to stiff for aggressive road driving.

Those Watts link kit however kick the pan hard bars in the teeth. It will be fing sweet to not feel like the rear end is physically coming out the bottom of the car in a hard corner when you hit a bump (not loss of traction, more the sloppy unsettled rear feeling.)

Now Pics or die!

 

Dry road from complete stop
Before the watts link

the rear of the car would move toward the passanger side of the car and it would also do this to a lesser degree when the auto shifted to 2nd and again at 3rd

After the watts link

no side to side movement at all and it keeps strait at the gear changes

I should have done more testing to compare thrsday (its been rainy since)
Next good dry day I'll do more launches from a stop