Should I be buying a new high performance oil pump, or stick with the one the aluminator comes with? Also, any recommendations on a clutch/flywheel setup? I'm looking at Brenspeeds stuff. I noticed JDM has a Roush P51 clutch, perhaps that would be better? People recommend getting the shortblock from Tousley Ford. Anyone have a number for them, or should I just google them and call their service department? I never could find a performance parts section of their website or anything.

Any suggestion for new headgaskets? Ford OEM or some kinda aftermarket stuff? And for headbolts? Get the stock torque to yield or something else?

Lots o' questions!

Will be posting pics and updates on the engine out, and disassembled later.

 

Siggy,

Just so you know that I have read reviews on the P51 clutch used with the stock hardware. Seems like that combo does not work well together. The clutch is just to aggressive for the pressure plate and flywheel. I'm saving for the McLeod....according to all of the reviews its the best one on the market for the S197


FYI I heard these guys were doing http://www.hurricaneperformance.com/ a group buy for the Mcleod RST clutch for $610 which is unheard of...I'll be calling them on Monday...

 

I've read both good and bad about the P 51 so far. Some people didn't like it, others had great success. JDM seems to enjoy it in their cars.

 

I would get the ARP head bolts,they can be reused if you decide to change heads. The oil pump should be okay if your going to stay under 6500 rpm's.

 

Well I honestly don't plan on getting back into the heads if at all possible, so shelling out 300+ bucks for ARP bolts doesn't really sound logical to me at the moment. I'll probably stick with the pump though.

Any suggestions on a headgasket?

 

You should get the TSS billet oil pump gears and have them installed in the pump you have. The gears are the problem in the oil pumps.

 

I'm running a stock oil pump. Used TTY headbolts. A person could buy 6 sets of them and still be under the cost for arp hardware.

 

if I was installing an aluminator long block I'd leave it the F*** alone. Why change things, it's already got reputation as a strong reliable setup......... After your experience with the failed motor I am shocked that you would be even considering opening up the new one and pissing around with it.

 

Well, the failed motor was stock, and untouched by me. I've heard people talk about the oil pump/gears being a weak point in a motor, and wanted to know if this was the case with the alimunator. I don't really understand your comments marc, as it's not like I was dickin around with the stock block. I only drove it for 1900 miles, and drove it lightly.

 

No, I don't mean to infer you were messing with the old block Siggy, I understand that the damage to that was undoubtedly done by the previous owner, who we are all sure abused/raced it in some way or another.
I merely meant that if I was in a post motor-blow mode the absolute last thing I would be thinking about would be second guessing a Factory built motor by swapping out critical items like the oil pump. Quite the opposite in fact, I would be scurrying for the warm cuddly feeling that you get when you have a brand new [unmolested by third party parts] factory motor purring away up front.