m0nkeydump

I want to pre-order a 2011 V6 with the Performance and Security Packages.

I have never purchased a new car before (I'm turning 22), and the idea of pre-ordering is even more foreign to me. I have a few questions and I was wondering if anyone could help me out a bit.

1.) When you pre-order a car, the price isn't "set" until the car arrives? That appears to be the case from the comments I've read. How does that make sense? If there isn't an agreed price, why would someone preorder a car? Couldn't the dealer just increase the price after you've made a deposit?

2.) I'm looking to pay as little as possible (who isn't?), so I'm assuming invoice. I've always thought that pre-ordering would incur extra costs, from what I'm reading, it doesn't appear to be true. Could I get a definite answer?

3.) How did you guys haggle, and what prices did you get? The best deal I've seen was invoice + $200 holdback from dealer on GT I believe. But then again, I thought a price isn't set until delivery? I am currently in communication with my local dealer through e-mails. Is it better to haggle over e-mail or in person? (I'm not a great liar)

4.) I have a 1993 Mercedes E420 to trade in. Only about 110,000 miles, and exterior in decent condition. Should I get the dealer to set on a deal before telling him/her that I have a trade-in? Does it matter?

What about the brochure rebate? Should I get the dealer to the lowest price before busting it out?

This is all that's confusing me right now.

Short version: Is it possible to get the dealer to commit to a price before pre-ordering, or must I wait until car delivery? What if the dealer tells me a price, and when car arrives, the agreed price has gone up?

Thanks for any responses. I've searched online and this forum, but no luck.

LostBoyz

I don't know about the haggling, I am fortunate enough to have access to A-plan discount which is a set price. I only said in my comment to you before that they give you an order sheet that says "this is not an invoice" just in case something changes in price or becomes unavailable, but if the car shows up exactly as you ordered that is how much it will cost.

wingless

There is lots of good information on-line.

Here are some of my observations.

A good new car dealer will know you better than you know yourself. An example, one tossed the wife and I the keys to a $100K Porsche to take for a spin on our own. I wasn't serious about the vehicle, but the wife was, we ended up buying the car.

You will NEVER be as good as them at this game. This is their game. I've bought lots of new cars and rarely feel at-ease on the showroom.

Be prepared to walk away if the deal isn't okay. It is easy to be excited about the purchase and the dealer counts on that reaction. They "read" that from the buyer.

1) Almost all my cars were special-ordered. Select the configuration and agree on the price. Place a deposit. Include wording that permits a lower price like: "any discounts in-effect at delivery will be applied to the purchase price".

2+3) The dealer wants to sell cars off the lot. Those cost them money, plus a sale today is way better than one in two to three months. For the buyer, both cost the same, with the exception of incentives usually applied to clear last-years models.

At invoice the dealer is still making profit, ~$800 to $1K from the holdback. Negotiate the sale price relative to invoice. When dealing w/ invoice there are additional charges applicable. Those include advertising ~$500 and fuel ~$50 that are tacked-on.

The range on an available car, versus limited production, is $200 under to $400 over invoice. The dealer wants $1,200 over invoice, or more, depending on how he sizes you up. A limited production car is at or above sticker.

4) Negotiate one deal at a time.

Agree on the purchase price, then agree on the trade price.

Part of their games is to combine the two to show a high trade when it is really cutting the discount.

Another game is for them to ask what do you want to pay per month? Go in knowing interest rates, so they don't make extra profit off the note.


If you already have the brochure coupon, don't delay because a domestic car takes about two months.

There may be a better discount available if you become a Ford stock shareholder. You may wish to investigate that option.

Be aware of the extra-cost adders like paint and fabric protection. Those are usually installed onto the on-the-lot cars and much of the purchase haggling is spent removing those charges instead of the planned delta to invoice. That's an advantage to ordered cars because those don't complicate the deal.

douglasland

I preordered my car with no deposit and a pre-agreed upon price. The rebates were discussed and it was simply put that the our price $500 over invoice was the price and ford's money was ford's money. So the rebates improved and I got the brochure rebate that were valid at the time of pickup. Given your age I would expect to put a deposit down but the deposit should be refundable.

m0nkeydump

Thanks for the responses, guys.

Hysteric

Be sure to let them know if dealer advertising is on the car when you go to get it, you arent taking delivery :P Nobody wants that crap on their car.

wingless

My sales agreements always specify that condition, along w/ no front plate bracket and no Armorall on the tires.

My sales guys meet the delivery truck and squirrel my car to safety to prevent errors.

Hysteric

Yeah, here in New Jersey we need front license plates, but I have been driving for 2 years without it and I ask my cop friends about it and they are like "We dont even notice it when you drive by. Not like we pull you over from the front anyway."

Whats the armorall do to the tires?

wingless

The industrial-strength Armorall they use at dealerships lasts forever and I don't like shiny tires.

Whitehorse10

There are pros and cons to ordering a car.

Since you are trading in your Mercedes and especially if you have put any money down on your order you can expect them to low ball the crap out of your trade in. This is because they know you aren't likely to walk away from a car that you have already put money on. You can visit the Ford website and find out how much the car should cost under the build and price function. If they want to charge you more than that, don't buy it. Tell them that if they can't honor the price that Ford has set for the car than you will find a dealer that will.

In some instances it's better from a haggling perspective to buy a car off the lot. You aren't in any way obligated to that car. If they don't make the deal you want, you simply walk away. I've ordered cars before and generally I have found that dealers are more apt to try and rip you off when ordering then they are when you just walk in the door.