Gauge set up
Have a few questions regarding gauges. Getting the blower soon. Was going to get water temp, a/f sideband, and a boost gauge. Can someone point me in the right direction as the difference between mechanical and electric gauges? Like what do they require to operate, any suggestions? Links would be nice!
not sure what the difference between the two are but i have heard that u should not skimp out on gauges. Meaning do not get the 100 dollar gauges as they do not read correctly when tuners are giving the car a dyno run.
I'm guessing you're talking about the sensor set up and not the gauge itself . . .
Mechanical gauges require you to run the source being measured (boost, oil pressure, etc) to the gauge itself.
Electric ones let you install the sensors remotely and then you just run 1-3 electrical wires back to the gauge. Usually much easier on the install.
If you're talking about the gauges themselves, then its just the readout format. Needles are mechanical, digital numbers are electric.
Mechanical gauges require you to run the source being measured (boost, oil pressure, etc) to the gauge itself.
Electric ones let you install the sensors remotely and then you just run 1-3 electrical wires back to the gauge. Usually much easier on the install.
If you're talking about the gauges themselves, then its just the readout format. Needles are mechanical, digital numbers are electric.
All wideband gauges use a wideband sensor and a controller, with a gauge to display the values, usually digitally.
Boost/vac is a good choice, and a mechanical one is really easy to hook up, since you run a vacuum line to the gauge.
A fuel pressure gauge should be your third gauge, and it should have an electric sensor. This will be somewhat costly, but important to see your fuel pressure; although, from experience, if you start running out of fuel pressure, the wideband will start showing lean as well.
Water temp I'd do only if I needed to fill in a gauge position.
Boost/vac is a good choice, and a mechanical one is really easy to hook up, since you run a vacuum line to the gauge.
A fuel pressure gauge should be your third gauge, and it should have an electric sensor. This will be somewhat costly, but important to see your fuel pressure; although, from experience, if you start running out of fuel pressure, the wideband will start showing lean as well.
Water temp I'd do only if I needed to fill in a gauge position.
All wideband gauges use a wideband sensor and a controller, with a gauge to display the values, usually digitally.
Boost/vac is a good choice, and a mechanical one is really easy to hook up, since you run a vacuum line to the gauge.
A fuel pressure gauge should be your third gauge, and it should have an electric sensor. This will be somewhat costly, but important to see your fuel pressure; although, from experience, if you start running out of fuel pressure, the wideband will start showing lean as well.
Water temp I'd do only if I needed to fill in a gauge position.
Boost/vac is a good choice, and a mechanical one is really easy to hook up, since you run a vacuum line to the gauge.
A fuel pressure gauge should be your third gauge, and it should have an electric sensor. This will be somewhat costly, but important to see your fuel pressure; although, from experience, if you start running out of fuel pressure, the wideband will start showing lean as well.
Water temp I'd do only if I needed to fill in a gauge position.
I understand how the boost gauge works, kind of like a T on your vacuum line coming off the intake manifold correct? I have also gathered that the wideband has its own sensor and controller I am starting to get it down packed lol. So the fuel pressure gauge has to be electrical? If I can see when I start losing fuel on the wideband it starts heading towards the lean side, why bother?
I had Brenspeed install my gauges when they installed the Vortech. I went with the Autometer Cobalt series, boost and A/F wideband. I also purchased the A-pillar pod, perfect match. Wasn't cheap, love it!
So Boost, Wideband, and Fuel pressure are the final contestants lol.
I understand how the boost gauge works, kind of like a T on your vacuum line coming off the intake manifold correct? I have also gathered that the wideband has its own sensor and controller I am starting to get it down packed lol. So the fuel pressure gauge has to be electrical? If I can see when I start losing fuel on the wideband it starts heading towards the lean side, why bother?
I understand how the boost gauge works, kind of like a T on your vacuum line coming off the intake manifold correct? I have also gathered that the wideband has its own sensor and controller I am starting to get it down packed lol. So the fuel pressure gauge has to be electrical? If I can see when I start losing fuel on the wideband it starts heading towards the lean side, why bother?
fuel pressure must be electric if the gauge is mounted in the car.
fuel pressure is not necessary, and no gauge is necessary, but its better if you have it.
what if your a/f is lean, but your fuel pressure is normal?
you wouldn't be able to tell if you didn't have a fuel pressure gauge.
but again it is not necessary.
boost gauge can be mechanical
fuel pressure must be electric if the gauge is mounted in the car.
fuel pressure is not necessary, and no gauge is necessary, but its better if you have it.
what if your a/f is lean, but your fuel pressure is normal?
you wouldn't be able to tell if you didn't have a fuel pressure gauge.
but again it is not necessary.
fuel pressure must be electric if the gauge is mounted in the car.
fuel pressure is not necessary, and no gauge is necessary, but its better if you have it.
what if your a/f is lean, but your fuel pressure is normal?
you wouldn't be able to tell if you didn't have a fuel pressure gauge.
but again it is not necessary.


