Anyone ever made their own sequentials?
Heres a short demo of it. Its just wired to a battery so it doesnt turn on and off by itself. You can see the sequencing works but the delay is a bit too slow
Also attaching a pic so you can see how simple the design is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZf8DhPqlas
Also attaching a pic so you can see how simple the design is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZf8DhPqlas
The timing is changed by changing out the resistors or capacitors, i have other resistors i just havent had a chance to find the exact timing needed and then do the math
I havent studied electronics in so long, hell, I have fogotten what the base dimensional units are for ohms and farads. If I remember the base dimensional units, I could do the dimensional analysis to do the calculations myself to alter the timing, LOL
For some reason, I was thinking the timing would be set up by a crystal or a setup of capacitors and inductors, which I though would be fxced in the IC.
For some reason, I was thinking the timing would be set up by a crystal or a setup of capacitors and inductors, which I though would be fxced in the IC.
Yea, I did the logic with a PIC.
555s (556s)are not stable enough
for the wide temp swings of the
auto enviroment. And are very old school.
A better bet would be 4000 series CMOS
and a counter/divider arrangment.
But why when PICs abound and kick ****.
And they can be made to be self calibrating
as to the timing of the lights per actual vehicle.
Unlike the Meter4It kit that requires you to
initially set up the timing.
We have come a long way since 555s.
And you really want DEPENDABLE rear
brake lights and turn signals, dont you?
Save a buck somewhere else and get
the good stuff for what really counts.
The better question is did anyone try and
reinvent the wheel just for kicks?
555s (556s)are not stable enough
for the wide temp swings of the
auto enviroment. And are very old school.
A better bet would be 4000 series CMOS
and a counter/divider arrangment.
But why when PICs abound and kick ****.
And they can be made to be self calibrating
as to the timing of the lights per actual vehicle.
Unlike the Meter4It kit that requires you to
initially set up the timing.
We have come a long way since 555s.
And you really want DEPENDABLE rear
brake lights and turn signals, dont you?
Save a buck somewhere else and get
the good stuff for what really counts.
The better question is did anyone try and
reinvent the wheel just for kicks?
Last edited by 157dB; Feb 26, 2011 at 01:59 PM.
Yea, I did the logic with a PIC.
555s (556s)are not stable enough
for the wide temp swings of the
auto enviroment. And are very old school.
A better bet would be 4000 series CMOS
and a counter/divider arrangment.
But why when PICs abound and kick ****.
And they can be made to be self calibrating
as to the timing of the lights per actual vehicle.
Unlike the Meter4It kit that requires you to
initially set up the timing.
We have come a long way since 555s.
And you really want DEPENDABLE rear
brake lights and turn signals, dont you?
Save a buck somewhere else and get
the good stuff for what really counts.
The better question is did anyone try and
reinvent the wheel just for kicks?
555s (556s)are not stable enough
for the wide temp swings of the
auto enviroment. And are very old school.
A better bet would be 4000 series CMOS
and a counter/divider arrangment.
But why when PICs abound and kick ****.
And they can be made to be self calibrating
as to the timing of the lights per actual vehicle.
Unlike the Meter4It kit that requires you to
initially set up the timing.
We have come a long way since 555s.
And you really want DEPENDABLE rear
brake lights and turn signals, dont you?
Save a buck somewhere else and get
the good stuff for what really counts.
The better question is did anyone try and
reinvent the wheel just for kicks?
I had a few people recommend using micro-controllers but i have no clue how they work and the 555 circuit is extremely simple.
also does anyone have a schematic of the wiring for the tail lights? Is there just a power and ground running to each or how is it setup? Im still trying to figure out how to implement the circuit but i have some pretty good ideas i just need to know the current wiring (and if my circuit will even work?!)
wasnt able to find a consistent answer but when i googled operating temperatures i got something along the lines of
Min Operating Temp 32 F
Max Operating Temp 158 F
Last edited by Shadow7874; Feb 26, 2011 at 02:14 PM.
I'm assuming this is for your 555 chip. You'll probably need a chip that can operate below freezing. Finding chips that can operate at a high enough temperature will be easy enough. It's the ones that operate at lower temperatures that are somewhat more difficult, though certainly not hard.
The SE555 has an operating temperature range of -55°C - 125°C
http://www.unitechelectronics.com/NE-555.htm
I'd personally feel a microcontroller would be overkill for this application. You can get a SE555P for $0.75 and it has the same temp range.
http://www.ibsstore.com/scripts/prod...idproduct=3253
http://www.unitechelectronics.com/NE-555.htm
I'd personally feel a microcontroller would be overkill for this application. You can get a SE555P for $0.75 and it has the same temp range.
http://www.ibsstore.com/scripts/prod...idproduct=3253
The SE555 has an operating temperature range of -55°C - 125°C
http://www.unitechelectronics.com/NE-555.htm
I'd personally feel a microcontroller would be overkill for this application. You can get a SE555P for $0.75 and it has the same temp range.
http://www.ibsstore.com/scripts/prod...idproduct=3253
http://www.unitechelectronics.com/NE-555.htm
I'd personally feel a microcontroller would be overkill for this application. You can get a SE555P for $0.75 and it has the same temp range.
http://www.ibsstore.com/scripts/prod...idproduct=3253
While i microcontroller would work i really dont see why the 555 is such a bad idea. It seems super simple in theory but i could be wrong. All i way to decrease the current to the 555 (voltage regulator?? im still using batteries so i havent looked into that) a small cap, resistor, and a relay to send the power to the lights. I dont plan on touching the inner lights wiring at all and i could just make two small chips that i splice into the power wires to the lights and both powers the IC and relay.
For now im just enjoying the learning experience in circuit design and PCB prototyping. I picked up some copper clad board and etchant some hopefully sometime in the next week I can make a test PCB just using the leds and batteries. Mainly to learn the etching process. After that ill start figuring out how to regulate the current going to the chip and setting up a relay for the lights.
I still need to get the timing down a bit better but i have no way of measuring the tail light cycles as of now so im just making guesses for now.
Hopefully ill have some updates soon but ive spent most of the weekend reading up on pcb design and all sorts of other related topics and no time actually studying for school. I dont plan on actually installing any prototypes till spring break (3-4 weeks i think)


