DiMora's Battery Relocation Thread
 

I decided to move my battery to the trunk.

There are a few reasons why:

1) This car is nose heavy and lacks rear weight, and therefore rear-end traction. Anything you can do to move the weight bias rearward will help handling and drag-strip launching.

2) The last time I had the battery out, I was surprised how heavy it is. I looked it up: It is 43.5 pounds, to be exact (Optima Yellow Top).

Number one coupled with number two looks like a win to me...but I also have more ideas for this mod:

3) I have my eye on a big aluminum intercooler fluid tank. The more fluid you can add to your system, the better it cools - however, one must remember that water weighs 8 pounds a gallon, so it is a partial trade-off.

Something like this Canton model number 80-235; about $170 or so, looks pretty sweet to me:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Anyway, onto the battery relocation project...

First, I procured the relocation kit from Jegs. It is made by Taylor. You can get cables in a couple different choices; I chose two gauge welding cable. Welding cable is a bit more flexible, and also has a double shield - an outer red rubber type shield, then a tougher white inner shield.

For a junction, I went with a StreetWires four-way junction block and a 1/0 gauge ring terminal. The four outputs can handle four gauge cable.

First, I jacked up the right front of the car and removed the right front wheel and inner fender splash-guard. All that is needed is a phillips screwdriver and a panel popper tool to remove the plastic plugs:

Before (Optima yellow-top, StreetWires terminals, and the side terminal is for my subwoofer power):

http://images108.fotki.com/v360/phot...MG_6460-vi.jpg

Splash guard removal:

http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photo...MG_6459-vi.jpg

http://images55.fotki.com/v54/photos...MG_6461-vi.jpg

http://images57.fotki.com/v300/photo...MG_6464-vi.jpg

See that big rubber grommet with wires coming through it in the above pic?

See this little nipple? This little rubber teet?

http://images38.fotki.com/v1216/phot...MG_6469-vi.jpg

CUT THAT TEET OFF!

AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

http://images51.fotki.com/v628/photo...MG_6470-vi.jpg

OK, OK...simmer down now...regroup...focus...

Back to the trunk:

I mounted my box like this. Make sure you know where your threaded rods will go and don't drill something you may regret.

http://images44.fotki.com/v301/photo...MG_6465-vi.jpg

I ran the black ground cable to the upper lip of the spare tire area, right by my KB Boost-A-Pump. I cleaned the metal off really well with sandpaper till it was shiny and bare to insure a perfect ground. I added a ROUSH sticker for extra panache:

http://images54.fotki.com/v77/photos...MG_6476-vi.jpg

You can also see in the above shot that I ran my cable forward on the driver's side to the seat, then cut straight across to the passenger side. From there, I ran it in the interior under the carpet on the passenger side and up to that big rubber grommet.

Remember the teet I cut off?

Here is why:

http://images30.fotki.com/v476/photo...MG_6471-vi.jpg

Split-loom that little bizzle for protection:

http://images30.fotki.com/v39/photos...MG_6477-vi.jpg

Add junction block....and...Voila! Success!:

http://images38.fotki.com/v1216/phot...MG_6475-vi.jpg

The two gauge feeds:

1) Alternator
2) Underhood fuse box
3) Subwoofer amps (fused 4 gauge 0 you can see the clear fuse holder)
4) Starter

http://images54.fotki.com/v77/photos...MG_6476-vi.jpg

Note my ground cable: 4 gauge ring terminal mounted to strut tower...I used the OEM ground location:

http://images51.fotki.com/v628/photo...MG_6478-vi.jpg

I'll be adding a "PUSH OFF" switch for drag racing later on, and I already have the trunk liner / carpet re-installed, but it was dark when I finished so I didn't take pictures yet, but will do so soon.

I put it on the driver's side since I have a sub box on the passenger side.

Very nice write up...hopefully this will get a sticky because it's very informative!

+1, good write up man. I did the same thing when I put my Vortech on except mine is on the other side of the trunk!

Indeed..If I did not have a sub-woofer box, mine would also be on the right rear passenger side.

Off topic, but

http://images51.fotki.com/v628/photo...MG_6478-vi.jpg

What style strut tower brace is this?

Steeda Billet; actual brace will no longer fit due to TVS blower / hood clearance issues.

Back on topic...Sorry it took so long to add final shots...been very busy.

Final outcome for now until I add a cutoff switch:

http://images108.fotki.com/v360/phot...MG_6502-vi.jpg

http://images57.fotki.com/v221/photo...MG_6503-vi.jpg

http://images51.fotki.com/v628/photo...MG_6507-vi.jpg[/QUOTE]

Very clean like said before, looks great!

I ordered a Stinger 200 AMP breaker to protect the car in case I crash and am incapacitated:

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/catal...20_general.jpg

Alright, 200 amp Stinger car audio-grade circuit breaker added.

I re-located the positive cable to the back of the box to make the wire routing a little better.

I used a hole-saw I had lying around that was a perfect diameter to match what the boxes stock holes were, and I de-burred with a file. I'll add some split-loom for extra measure tomorrow morning before I call the job done.

Positive battery terminal is now a Stinger as well. It has a plastic insulating cover on it that is hard to see. I have a negative terminal that matches, but I need some more 1/0 gauge ring terminals.

My buddy holding the box so I can shoot an image of the new hole:

http://images53.fotki.com/v249/photo...MG_6571-vi.jpg

The positive terminal has clear heat-shrink covering all exposed metal, and then I added some 3M foam body tape and left the top backing on it where it crosses the battery securing bar for extra insulation. A single zip-tie holds the breaker to the securing bar.

http://images58.fotki.com/v154/photo...MG_6572-vi.jpg

Finished for now until I split-loom all exposed wires and add zip ties:

http://images59.fotki.com/v684/photo...MG_6573-vi.jpg