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08 GT no crank

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Old 05-15-2012, 06:07 PM
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iceexhaust
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Default 08 GT no crank

Hi Guys, I am new here so I appreciate the help in advance. My daughter has a 08 GT and we have a intermittent no crank,but not long enough to completely quit. We have a shop and have already tried a new starter, cleaned cables (not a battery issue) , Clutch safety switch, new ignition key, and a new ignition switch. When it does it and you hold the key in the start position it will hit periodically and then finally crank. It is almost like no power to the starter but all lights are bright on the dash. Tonight I noticed the instrument cluster went to Trip ----- and the back to the mileage. Could this possibly be the instrument cluster?? $400 fix and hate to guess at it but may have to.
Thanks for the help
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:21 PM
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wayne613
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The cluster has nothing to do with starting the car, at all, for 05-09's. You can yank it out and drive off if you wanted, won't have any warning sounds or indicators, but the car will work fine.

Off-hand, if you've verified the power AND ground connections through the starting system, my suspects would be the PCM, or PATS transceiver. Have you tried swapping out the relay for the starter as well? Unlikely, but if intermittent, that is also suspect, as would be the solenoid.

The mileage and a few other things blank out when you're PCM is being reset, such as when you use a tuner to program, so that is a bit disconcerting. You say it "hits periodically", what exactly does that entail/mean? Cranks the starter motor periodically while in the start position with the key?

Were it the PATS, it should show an odd sequence of flashes(or glow) for the lock symbol LED on the cluster if it's not working correctly(when in IGN key position), and give a DTC. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=412&viewfile=Anti-Theft.pdf

I would really go in check all of the PCM wiring plugs and it's ground next, checking for corrosion. Then the main one that the ignition uses; which, if memory serves, everything on the dash uses the steel framing to the body points on either end of the car via large bolts(check for any rusting there AND the ground going to the dash framing from the ignition harness).

I'd use the service manual to trouble-shoot after that before you go throwing any [more] money at it. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=204

Last edited by wayne613; 05-15-2012 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:29 PM
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Nuke
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Are you ABSOLUTELY sure that the battery and alternator check out ok with load testing? These S197's are notorious for weak chargiing systems. The alternator is a weak link and the OE MotorCrap batteries are... well... crap. There are many reports of electrical gremlins stemming from weak alternators and border-line batteries.

One other consideration as I read your description of the symptoms is the ignition switch itself, although thru all the years I've been on this and other forums, the ignition switch hasn't been chronic like the charging system and other items.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuke View Post
Are you ABSOLUTELY sure that the battery and alternator check out ok with load testing? These S197's are notorious for weak chargiing systems. The alternator is a weak link and the OE MotorCrap batteries are... well... crap. There are many reports of electrical gremlins stemming from weak alternators and border-line batteries.
+1

I had to replace my alternator a couple months ago right around 30k aswell as the battery. I went with aftermarket not motocraft this time.

I have heard tons of stories of failing alternators with the p0304 code (I don't remember exactly) including myself. My handheld tuner said it was a cam positioning sensor but I looked it up and there were countless strories relating that code to a failing alternator.

So triple check your charging system.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:18 AM
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Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by iceexhaust View Post
08 GT
Clutch safety switch
When it does it and you hold the key in the start position it will hit periodically and then finally crank
Sounds a lot like the clutch interlock switch requires you to force the clutch pedal down into the carpet and not ease off it AT ALL. In some cars, it won't let you even ease off the clutch pedal a tiny bit.

Unfortunately, there does not appear to be any way of adjusting this out and making the adjustment "stick" - the design of the switch assembly will allow it to ratchet right back to the lowest possible position the next time you depress the clutch pedal all the way.


If this is the case, the only permanent "fix" that I know of wouldn't be "approved" . . .


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Old 05-16-2012, 02:15 PM
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chub46
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How many miles are on the car? When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? The fuel filter can give the same symptoms you are having.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:32 PM
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A fuel filter problem will not prevent cranking. It might prevent it from turning over, but not from cranking. The issue here is something electrical and as Norm pointed out, could be a simple switch contact.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:54 AM
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I miss read his post he did say it will not crank.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:00 PM
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iceexhaust
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Thanks for the replies. I will check the alternator and battery again. Last night I thought it had finally quit. I held the key in start position and after several minutes it would try and engage the starter and finally starter cranked and car started. I actually thought I had found the issue as while it was doing this I had my son holding the key and I was was shaking underhood fuse panel and relays and it started. Felt real good about it but tried it two minutes later and same thing. This morning cranked up fine. My local ford dealer suggested the instrument cluster. We have checked connections and grounds to no avail. I know it will be simple but it is just finding it. The car has 40k on it also. New starter, new ignition switch, new clutch safety switch.
Thanks Again
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:09 PM
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If he was holding the clutch in the whole time without moving while you jiggled the BEC, then it started, then I would definitely suggest busting out the owners manual, flipping to the back index, find the fuse pages, and look up the starter relay. Pull it, and swap with another that's the same, think the A/C compressor uses the same one...

They're rated for a few million times switching before they're supposed to fail, but you could be unlucky, or it could have corrosion.
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