Eibach Sportlines.
Okay, so for starters, i've been searching several forums for the last week or so for info on these.
I haven't really come up with much on what I will need after I put them on.
I know I will need an adjustment. I've also been told a camber bolt might be needed since the camber might change about a degree?
I'm not sure how suspension stuff works, so if someone could lay out what exactly will need to be done I'd greatly appreciate it..
As I've said, I've searched around, but nothing has really come up..
For those that don't know..
Eibach Sportline's will drop the rear 2.2" and the front 1.7"
I'm NOT doing shocks right now. I will wait a couple months until I can afford them. Although what shocks would be good?
Also, these will be coming off, and the OEM springs going back on EVERY winter, since mine is a DD.
So alignment, camber ? etc?
I haven't really come up with much on what I will need after I put them on.
I know I will need an adjustment. I've also been told a camber bolt might be needed since the camber might change about a degree?
I'm not sure how suspension stuff works, so if someone could lay out what exactly will need to be done I'd greatly appreciate it..
As I've said, I've searched around, but nothing has really come up..
For those that don't know..
Eibach Sportline's will drop the rear 2.2" and the front 1.7"
I'm NOT doing shocks right now. I will wait a couple months until I can afford them. Although what shocks would be good?
Also, these will be coming off, and the OEM springs going back on EVERY winter, since mine is a DD.
So alignment, camber ? etc?
You need a compression/damping combo that works....that much drop comes with headaches. If you're low on $$$$ go with the Steeda Sports, Koni STR.T and Steeda HD Strut Mounts...DONE!!! Drives better than stock, and the car will sit about an inch lower all-round. No need to switch back to stockers in the winter.
I'm looking more for a very aggressive drop. Form > Function in this case.
I'm not concerned about performance, as it's a DD, nor am I concerned with comfort.
I'll be doing track stuff occasionally, but as of right now nothing big. Not til next year most likely.
I had Roush springs in the rear..1" drop, not nearly aggressive enough.
what do you mean I'd need a compression/damping combo that works?
Also, Toe-in/toe-out.
Should I be concerned with this?
I'm not concerned about performance, as it's a DD, nor am I concerned with comfort.
I'll be doing track stuff occasionally, but as of right now nothing big. Not til next year most likely.
I had Roush springs in the rear..1" drop, not nearly aggressive enough.
what do you mean I'd need a compression/damping combo that works?
Also, Toe-in/toe-out.
Should I be concerned with this?
Last edited by kput; Jun 25, 2012 at 12:39 PM.
Without an adjustable Camber/Caster plate, the Toe is about all an alignment shop can align... Sure they could elogate the bolt holes in the struts to allow more adjustment if required, but they will definitely NOT include that in their normal 2 wheel alignment (which btw, is all our cars can get)... If they try to tell you otherwise ("yeah, the 4 wheel alignment is better, that's why we charge more...") they are feeding you a load of BS and you should take you business elsewhere... If you haven't already, I'd post this question up in the Suspension sub-forum as you might get more specific help than I have put here (which isn't much anyways).
Don
Don
After I had my Eibach Pro-kit springs installed, I was told to wait 50+ miles and then go and have an alignment done. The alignment will show the camber/caster and the toe. Depending on how many degrees the camber/caster is off, it will determine how bad the toe will be. The toe is where the tire meets the ground. If the toe is really off (toe in/toe out), you will wear the tires out in certain areas and the tire will not last as long. Thus, you will need caster/camber plates in order to correct the issue.
Last edited by kevinmalec; Jun 25, 2012 at 01:49 PM.
I have Sportlines on my car and the need is different then the want. Drop it and enjoy!
There is one change an alignment shop can make on your car and that is to the toe settings, dont let them charge you for a full alignment.
Needs - nothing really, except for that small possible adjustment to the toe. My camber came out to -1.75 which is at the edge of spec without ANY plates or bolts.
Wants - huge list and over time you will pick up these parts so go ahead and plan for them:
Adjustable Panhard bar
LCA and brackets
UCA
Shocks/struts
Low profile jack or 2x12's to drive up on to get a regular jack or lift under it
New wheels because the gap will look weird with the factory wheel offset
Its all worth it though because it looks so good and once you have all the supporting parts, it will handle like crazy!
pic *****
There is one change an alignment shop can make on your car and that is to the toe settings, dont let them charge you for a full alignment.
Needs - nothing really, except for that small possible adjustment to the toe. My camber came out to -1.75 which is at the edge of spec without ANY plates or bolts.
Wants - huge list and over time you will pick up these parts so go ahead and plan for them:
Adjustable Panhard bar
LCA and brackets
UCA
Shocks/struts
Low profile jack or 2x12's to drive up on to get a regular jack or lift under it
New wheels because the gap will look weird with the factory wheel offset
Its all worth it though because it looks so good and once you have all the supporting parts, it will handle like crazy!
pic *****
I have Sportlines on my car and the need is different then the want. Drop it and enjoy!
There is one change an alignment shop can make on your car and that is to the toe settings, dont let them charge you for a full alignment.
Needs - nothing really, except for that small possible adjustment to the toe. My camber came out to -1.75 which is at the edge of spec without ANY plates or bolts.
Wants - huge list and over time you will pick up these parts so go ahead and plan for them:
Adjustable Panhard bar
LCA and brackets
UCA
Shocks/struts
Low profile jack or 2x12's to drive up on to get a regular jack or lift under it
New wheels because the gap will look weird with the factory wheel offset
Its all worth it though because it looks so good and once you have all the supporting parts, it will handle like crazy!
pic *****

There is one change an alignment shop can make on your car and that is to the toe settings, dont let them charge you for a full alignment.
Needs - nothing really, except for that small possible adjustment to the toe. My camber came out to -1.75 which is at the edge of spec without ANY plates or bolts.
Wants - huge list and over time you will pick up these parts so go ahead and plan for them:
Adjustable Panhard bar
LCA and brackets
UCA
Shocks/struts
Low profile jack or 2x12's to drive up on to get a regular jack or lift under it
New wheels because the gap will look weird with the factory wheel offset
Its all worth it though because it looks so good and once you have all the supporting parts, it will handle like crazy!
pic *****

thank you!
i had sportlines on my 2000 GT
ran it with just the springs for about a year.
added shocks/struts, C/C plates and alignment, and it was a world of difference
it was much smoother, more like a stock ride without the harsh bumps and steering was improved.
you dont need all that other stuff besides the springs, but they all help in the performance and ride quality and durability of your suspension in general.
ran it with just the springs for about a year.
added shocks/struts, C/C plates and alignment, and it was a world of difference
it was much smoother, more like a stock ride without the harsh bumps and steering was improved.
you dont need all that other stuff besides the springs, but they all help in the performance and ride quality and durability of your suspension in general.
Kput,
I have the Eibach pro-kit on mine. This what I recommend right away for your drop.
1. Steeda HD Plates (these allow for camber/caster adjustment).
2. ADJ panhard bar to correctly relocate the rear.
Eventually I would also get as supporting mods:
1. A good shock/strut (I have Tokico D-specs).
2. LCA's & an UCA (I have the J&M).
I have all the above & I will put my car against any handling wise!!!!!
I have the Eibach pro-kit on mine. This what I recommend right away for your drop.
1. Steeda HD Plates (these allow for camber/caster adjustment).
2. ADJ panhard bar to correctly relocate the rear.
Eventually I would also get as supporting mods:
1. A good shock/strut (I have Tokico D-specs).
2. LCA's & an UCA (I have the J&M).
I have all the above & I will put my car against any handling wise!!!!!


