got2begucci

So here is how it started and where i am at now. Noticed the check engine light came on. Brought the car to a sop to run the code and came back camshaft position sensor. We cleared the code and he told me to come back if the check engine light came back. Well it did, i went back to his shop ran the code and camshaft position sensor popped again. He said well looks like you might need to change the sensor and go from there. Went to Auto parts store bought a sensor and changed it myself. Turned on the car and the check engine light cleared. A few hours go by i start my car again and there is the check engine light back. Not sure if any of you have ran into this problem before and what exatcly might be further wrong. Do i need to go get the code cleared because of the new sensor? Is something loose? Could it be the wiring going to the sensor is failing? Please help and tell me your experience so i can go through the checklist. Thank you

wayne613

That particular DTC will come up when a feedback issue is present from the alternator's voltage regulator and/or rectifier diodes used. In fact, THAT is the normal cause for that particular DTC for our S197s.

Short answer, change out alternator.

The TSB:
https://mustangforums.com/mustang-ts...D-5.4L-3V.html

got2begucci

Yeah i been seeing that post and i wanted to be sure about it thats why i posted this up. So pretty much i am taking the right steps just we know that the alternator is not getting the right volts and is causing this to happen.

wayne613

Yep. Likely the TSB issue listed above then.

My personal suggestion is to go with a better one off a reputable Ebay seller (need to upgrade alternator hot line and the 2 main grounds if you go past the stock 130amp though). Plenty of tinkerers around that will put together a far better rebuilt alternator than stock, for half the price of the usual upgraded alternator.

Or just get a new rectifier board and voltage regulator and do it yourself. Fairly easy. Search "Ford 6G alternator" on youtube, there's a couple walk-thru's for doing it.

got2begucci

I'm assuming lots have had good reviews taking that route on e bay? i mean can it be trusted?

got2begucci

Honestly if i could do it myself i probably would but i dont know how.

wayne613

I've never had an issue really. I just check the reviews, especially the bad ones first before I actually finalize anything. They can't remove them.. There are some scams going, but it's unlikely most with half a brain have much to worry about. Just no paypal transactions as "gift", etc..

I have a PA performance 200A currently installed, but I tested out the $140 I bought from ebay and tore it apart. Actually better components from what I could tell from the ebay one, and 2 extra diodes, giving higher amperage output on average I'm sure.

wayne613

Fairly easy, 3 bolts, tap case off, remove voltage regulator(3 torx screws if I remember correctly), clip off old rectifier board, check the brushes and rotor slip rings while your there, likely as it's a 2005 those should also be replaced. Possibly bearings as well. If slip rings (or rotor and front bearings) need to be replaced, you'll need access to an impact wrench and the pulley bit to get the pulley off.

Would be cheaper to rebuild yourself, but not by a lot which is why I said "f it" and just bought one that was already done as a spare. I have the knowledge, but why work at something when you don't have to for an extra $20?

I'm at work, or I'd search and post the youtube link for the ford 6g walk-thru.

In your position, I'd probably do both, rebuild old one later, get a pre-built one as a replacement. My own would have needed everything but the case, slip rings, stator, and bearing covers replaced to rebuild it right as the rotor was damaged as well. Just wasn't worth the trouble to rebuild mine, so it's now in a landfill instead..

Few pics of old one being taken apart before I heaved it:



Last pic was to show the rectifier board damage. Only one of those diodes (they are sandwiched between in case you're not sure what you're looking at)was working. All the rest were cracked, or otherwise broken.

got2begucci

Well thank you so much for your help!

wayne613

np. And as promised, the walk-thru vids:

Ignore the ad for the site, ours is the 130amp large case with the posts:
[youtube]BkL5BdFLsMg#t=228s[/youtube]


Just another for the overview, as it is not the right alternator, but it is showing all the general steps:
[youtube]xpAuqfIOtLQ[/youtube]