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Best Place To Run Power Wire/Firewall '08

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Old 09-02-2015, 04:18 PM
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cbird1177711
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Default Best Place To Run Power Wire/Firewall '08

I am getting ready to install a new system in my '08 GT. Any advice on the best place to run the power wire through the firewall? ALSO, I have a shaker 1000 system. I have the metra harness needed and a voltage regulator, but when installing the new head unit, there are 3 connections in the rear. the main one and then 2 smaller ones. the metra harness has 2 connections, the main one and another one w/the rca's leading off it for the subs. what about the 3rd connection back there? also, when wiring the metra harness, i know that the voltage regulator is wired into the blue wires, where do the exit leads get wired into? Im sure i will figure it out once i get in to it, but just throwing it out there. now another question (sorry) i plan on only keeping the front door subs, and i want them to still be functional via the stock amps, and i am just taking out the rear subs. will this be a problem? thank you so much, anyone willing to help with ANY of the questions.!!
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:24 PM
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jz78817
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Originally Posted by cbird1177711 View Post
I am getting ready to install a new system in my '08 GT. Any advice on the best place to run the power wire through the firewall?
find an existing rubber grommet on the firewall (e.g. the one the hood release cable passes through,) poke a hole in it, push your power wire through, and seal it up with RTV. and yes, you definitely want to seal it unless you're ok with water running in through there and soaking your carpet.

ALSO, I have a shaker 1000 system. I have the metra harness needed and a voltage regulator, but when installing the new head unit, there are 3 connections in the rear. the main one and then 2 smaller ones. the metra harness has 2 connections, the main one and another one w/the rca's leading off it for the subs. what about the 3rd connection back there?
the three connections: 1) The largest connector is the main one, it has the power/ground/speaker wires. 2) The smallest one is the AUX outs for Subwoofer 1 (front door subs) and Subwoofer 2 (the ones in the trunk.) the other connector is for things like the CANBus wires (which your new radio doesn't need,) the audio AUX input jack if you have it, and the input wires for things like satellite radio. Nothing on that third connector is important to an aftermarket radio save maybe the AUX in jack, and the new radio will have its own cable anyway.

also, when wiring the metra harness, i know that the voltage regulator is wired into the blue wires, where do the exit leads get wired into?
the instructions will tell you which wires go where. the reason you need this thing is because aftermarket head units use a 12 volt turn-on lead for external amplifiers, and the factory amps are meant to use a 5 volt turn-on lead because that wire is dual-purpose; it's both an Amp Enable and Clip Detect wire.
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:28 PM
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bl817
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:51 PM
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cbird1177711
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Thanks a lot for the replies. I looked through the "how to: amp install" thread thoroughly and i'm pretty sure i'v got most my questions answered. Thanks, about the 3 connectors, makes since now. I'm still gonna have to fish around see if I can find the right grommet, i would prefer to not go through the firewall, but i will if need be.... a question i have that hopefully someone will know. when replacing the head unit, you disconnect 5 connectors to pull the "face plate" or whatever off. one for the harzard lights/cig lighter and one for the temp control/ 1/2/3/4 ****. well, i hooked up my new head unit the other day just to mess with it before i fully installed my system, then returned the stock shaker head unit. well, when doing so, the connector the the 1/2/3/4 *** that controls how much air you want coming out has a little grey clip on you have to release. well i broke it but didnt figure it to be too much of a big deal, as it still reconnected. the air still blows, 1/2/3/4 all that, but now i have no cold air, it just blows. would that connector have anything to do with it? i checked every fuse to do w/the a/c and they're fine. there is also a "diode" (which im not familiar with them) and a relay. I dont know how to tell if either are bad, or if there is a way to. As you can tell I am an amateur but very motivated to do it myself, CORRECTLY. Any help with figuring out why my air is no longer cold is soooo appreciated. I remember seeing somewhere the connector behind the 1/2/3/4 is HVAC somthin or anyother? I dunno, thank again guys - really!
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