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Loud Noise Above 30 MPH

Old 09-06-2015, 10:55 AM
  #1  
bjdutch2005
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Default Loud Noise Above 30 MPH

I have been trying to diagnose where a loud noise is coming from that makes the ride inside the cabin unbearable. I have looked all over the forums but can't find anything that matches.

I have a 2005 Mustang GT manual with an Airaid Stage 2. When I get up to about 30 mph there starts this whrrrr/rattling/vibration coming from the front of the car. At first I thought it was loose wheel wells. But after ensuring all the snaps were filled, I still have the noise. The noise only occurs above 30, is constant until after that speed unless you are in a right hand curve. As soon as you start the right turn, the noise goes away until you straighten out. I told my son last night that the sound resembles air going through a stage 2 into a turbo. Unfortunately, when you let off the accelerator the noise doesn't go away. Sometimes when I decelerate, it sounds like a semi downshifting. It gets a little louder before it quiets down.

I was up under the car this weekend and the exhaust seems solid, I can't get to the separator plate yet, so I was wondering about tires. They are yokohama 17".

Any thoughts would be helpful.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:14 AM
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Urambo Tauro
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I'm thinking wheel bearings.
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:20 PM
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bjdutch2005
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So with that I should be able to jack it up and see if the wheel moves, right? It just seemed weird that it happens when only above 30. Seems like I'd hear something any time the car moves.

How extensive and costly of a job is that? I've packed bearings on trailers before, just not a car.
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:36 PM
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Urambo Tauro
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Bad wheel bearings can create a humming/howling sound when they start to fail, that gets more intense at higher speeds. A tell-tale sign to distinguish bearing noise from tire noise is to turn the wheel at speed, in kind of a "gentle swerving" motion. As you steer one way, the bearings seat and everything sounds normal, but steering the other way allows the worn bearings to move around.

Bearing replacement is not like it used to be. Instead of taking it all apart to get to the cones, you remove the hub nut and replace the entire hub assembly. So with your new bearings, you get an entire new hub with lug studs and reluctor ring. They come pre-packed with grease, too.


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Old 09-06-2015, 05:09 PM
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Nuke
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There is a TSB for a tranny separator plate that's known to be a problem with the early years of the S197. Do a search.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:08 PM
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bjdutch2005
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Thanks for the ideas and the video. I watched the video and figured it was fairly easy, so I gave it a try. I jacked up the car on the left, since the sound went away for the most part when I turned right, and did a 12-6 wiggle. There was very little play, but I figured some was too much.

So, I changed out the hub on the front driver's side and took the car for a spin. At first it didn't seem much different, but when I got to about 40 it seemed like the noise was quite a bit less. When I hit the first curve at 60, it was pure silence. However, when I came out of the curve the noise seemed to come back when I straightened up. I don't think it was as loud as the car used to be, but there was still noise. So, I am thinking that the other bearing is bad as well. I will have to jack up the car tomorrow and see if there is any play in the front passenger wheel.

I relate the sound that I am hearing to the drone within a jet aircraft as you fly. The noise level is about the same and the vibration is just as close. As for the vibration, it seemed to be less on the driver's side and more on the passenger side, which seems to make sense since I know the bearings are good on the driver's side.

Does this sound like I am on the right track? Should I invest in the passenger side bearings? Or should I look toward something else?

FYI, the car has about 114500 miles and I've had it for about 1,000. The car had the noise when I bought it, but I thought it was exhaust noise since it didn't have mufflers. Now with mufflers and a solid exhaust, I know it isn't that.

Thanks!
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:51 PM
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Urambo Tauro
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Look at it this way: if both bearings were original, they can be expected to have exactly the same amount of wear. If one happens to be slightly noisier, it can keep you from hearing the other one.

This very thing happened to my neighbor when he replaced a rear bearing on his Aztek. After replacing the noisy side, he went on a test drive and was surprised to find the other side making noise. At first, he was confused about how the sound could suddenly be coming from an entirely different area of the car, but the fact is that it was there all along, masked by the noisier bearing. Bearings are one of those things that ought to be replaced in pairs.

Now, if you change out the other bearing and it turns out that there's something else making noise, don't feel bad. The fact that you've already made progress in quieting the car down, tells me that the bearings needed changing anyway. You're not wasting time, or money. You're doing the right thing by taking care of it now before it gets even worse. Besides, it would be difficult to track down a mystery noise while your bearings are making a racket.

Last edited by Urambo Tauro; 09-06-2015 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:23 PM
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bjdutch2005
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I just wanted to follow-up and say that the passenger wheel bearing was the culprit. I did not realize that it could be so loud. Unfortunately, now I hear all the other little creaks and bangs. Not a lot though. This Mustang is definitely an animal and a blast to drive.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate the help!
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:05 PM
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Old 03-24-2017, 03:36 AM
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Hahahahahahaaaaaa! Look man, after 3 week of the same problem I gave my 99 gt multiple upgraded, while installing said upgrades 3 days ago inoticed a bushing on my rRACK an PINON bushing looked warn so I started my car and turned the wheel all the way towards the left where an heard it shift forward had my girl bump it while I was looking under an noticed my rack was shifting about half an inch were the bushing was worn out, replaced both sides, with aftermarket bushings from Orylies Auto, (4 bushings cost 9 bucks) and all went away, needles to say I replaced both DS universal joints transmission mount witch was completely worn brake pads rotors and was about to have my DS balanced an UJoints replaced with high quality ones, oh an I had Goodyear alignment done was out .2 on front driver side an still it took me a week an a half to find that my bushing was fried lol. On Another note my alternator was just replaced today because of whining in my back two speakers (mostly). I replaced my battery first, my fuel filter an pump since I thought many whining was coming from back of car, all vacuum lines in engine bay and fuel lines as well. in the past two weeks, IAC valve, Coils an plugs, pcv valve and cat back Exhaust System updated, I bought my car off it's only owner who bought it of the floor in 02.little old lady was a widow an just drive the car an performed regular oil changes an whatnot, I bought the car 26 days ago an just feel like for 196000 miles it is still really strong an powerful, my only problem is at a idle, it idles in park at 800-900 but dropped to 480-600 when put in pa
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