end links placement
10-19-2016, 09:52 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
end links placement
Hey Guys,
I just changed my end links. The rubber housing around the ball joint had broken off on each one.
After replacing them, there seems to be a clunking sound that is different than before, sounds bad. I am aware of the mustang clunk with struts and I will tackle that next, but for now I want to make sure I have end links connected right.
As I was finishing up, I thought to myself, these are going on much easier than they were coming off. I then realized I may have attached to the end link to the suspension in the wrong place. So I want to know is which side does the end link connect to the strut (not sure if that is what it is called, still learning the jargon)? There seems to be a hole on both sides of it and I put on the one closer to the grille of the car. Is that bad? Should I move it to the back one?
I considered since they are new and the control arms and tie rods were replaced about a year or two ago, the worse clunking sound could be coming from the strut issues, just amplified because other parts are newer. But I am not sure of that.
Thanks.
I just changed my end links. The rubber housing around the ball joint had broken off on each one.
After replacing them, there seems to be a clunking sound that is different than before, sounds bad. I am aware of the mustang clunk with struts and I will tackle that next, but for now I want to make sure I have end links connected right.
As I was finishing up, I thought to myself, these are going on much easier than they were coming off. I then realized I may have attached to the end link to the suspension in the wrong place. So I want to know is which side does the end link connect to the strut (not sure if that is what it is called, still learning the jargon)? There seems to be a hole on both sides of it and I put on the one closer to the grille of the car. Is that bad? Should I move it to the back one?
I considered since they are new and the control arms and tie rods were replaced about a year or two ago, the worse clunking sound could be coming from the strut issues, just amplified because other parts are newer. But I am not sure of that.
Thanks.
10-24-2016, 07:12 AM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
Yup, I found this picture about 2 or 3 days after posting and receiving no replies. Man was it tucked away somewhere. I think I found it from another thread that was asking another question, and the reference they used had a link for sway bar.
But I changed it over yesterday. No more noise, no more Mustang clunk!!! I put off spending the money to fix this for a least 2 years thinking it was the strut clunk often talked about. Low and behold, it was just the end links.
There is very little room to tighten these down. I tried taking off the wheel, but tilting the car on a jack just put strain on the sway-bar and end links. Couldn't do it. Had to do it the hard way with wrenches and quarter turns until tight.
But I changed it over yesterday. No more noise, no more Mustang clunk!!! I put off spending the money to fix this for a least 2 years thinking it was the strut clunk often talked about. Low and behold, it was just the end links.
There is very little room to tighten these down. I tried taking off the wheel, but tilting the car on a jack just put strain on the sway-bar and end links. Couldn't do it. Had to do it the hard way with wrenches and quarter turns until tight.
10-24-2016, 08:31 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier, but it's good to hear it's fixed.
If you ever have to deal with endlinks again, jacking up both front tires clear of the ground (letting them droop about equally) avoids preloading the bar. For work not requiring you to actually get under the car, having a second floor jack can be more than just a luxury. Otherwise, set two jackstands.
Norm
If you ever have to deal with endlinks again, jacking up both front tires clear of the ground (letting them droop about equally) avoids preloading the bar. For work not requiring you to actually get under the car, having a second floor jack can be more than just a luxury. Otherwise, set two jackstands.
Norm
10-25-2016, 06:52 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jasper, IN
Posts: 772
Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier, but it's good to hear it's fixed.
If you ever have to deal with endlinks again, jacking up both front tires clear of the ground (letting them droop about equally) avoids preloading the bar. For work not requiring you to actually get under the car, having a second floor jack can be more than just a luxury. Otherwise, set two jackstands.
Norm
If you ever have to deal with endlinks again, jacking up both front tires clear of the ground (letting them droop about equally) avoids preloading the bar. For work not requiring you to actually get under the car, having a second floor jack can be more than just a luxury. Otherwise, set two jackstands.
Norm
I thought about getting my jack for emergencies from my trunk, but I didn't think that was the best idea and wasn't sure if would elevate the stress. Guess I know better now.
11-01-2016, 05:48 PM
#6
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
The easier method (for future reference) is to remove the sway bar with the end links still attached. Put the new end links onto the bar, then put the bar with the new end links back in.
The upper part of the end link is much easier to install than the lower part (as you have found out) because you have more space to work with.
The upper part of the end link is much easier to install than the lower part (as you have found out) because you have more space to work with.