I have a 2013 5.0.

For 2 weeks the car didn't get started.
Its battery was fully dead. I used a jump box. I got it started I figured a drive up the freeway will fix things and charge up the battery.

Well there is an engine light on, its yellow and solid on the instrument panel and oddly, the auto transmission won't let me manually shift it and it won't shift either. It seems to be staying in one gear and not it drives but it doesn't shift. I can do about 50 mph and it goes up to about 3000 rpm but does not shift to higher gear.

Not sure why my tranny won't shift normally after a battery that went very dead.

Any ideas?

Thanks for any advice,

M

 

For some reason the car is in the limp mode which it does when it senses a critical mechanical issue. Take it to a dealer ASAP and have it properly diagnosed. Remember, red lights mean stop immediately, yellow means pull over very soon and it get it checked out before it becomes a red light situation.

 

Whenever i go to the dealer, it ends up being 600$

Any chance this is the car sensing the battery is drawing a max charge and it considers that a bad battery? Or something along them lines?

 

Did you replace the battery with a brand new one?

 

Not yet. Do you recommend that?

 

If the car is in a limp mode, no battery is going to fix that. Take it to the dealer, get it properly diagnosed and reset. Don't start throwing parts at it until you've spent $600 for nothing. Let someone fix it that knows what they are doing and has the proper test equipment. The fix is not on this forum.

 

If I take it to anyone, it won't be the dealer. They way over charge for everything.
I had to swap out the rear sway bar bushings. I learned how to do it and did it myself.
Reason? I took it to the dealer, the part, just the part, was 335 or in that ball park.
I was able to get the part myself, that worked fine and was a direct replacement for about 44.00.
After that, I realized the dealer is a rip.
I have to fight them every time something is a warranty issue. I bought the extended warranty that goes out to 100k miles.

Every time there is an issue I practically have to turn into a lawyer because they say, its not covered. I then have to call Ford and then they call the dealer and they finally, begrudgingly do it.

So I understand your point, I'm just trying to find out if there is some way I can avoid being screwed over something that could be simple or maybe something I can do.
All the dang thing did is sit for 2 weeks and the battery drained down, probly because my aftermarket alarm drained it.
It would be different if I'd been driving it and I got this indication, I'd be more concerned that it really is something major.
Or if I'd brought it to the track and raced it or something. But just sitting?
I don't know how it could be really bad unless something electronic fried when I used the jump box to get it started.

 

I would disconnect the battery and take it to Autozone to be tested. If it is still good give it a charge. Install the battery and try it again. It might need a hard reset and start with a good battery.

If you still have a light, take it someplace to get the code (AutoZone does it for free). It might be a history code that will clear after 5 or 6 start cycles.

 

I bought a code reader. But first I'm gonna take the battery down to be re-charged or I'll get a new one. Then I'll read that code and post back here.

Thanks!

M

 

The alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery......the charging system can only maintain the battery so I suspect the statement about the EEC seeing 100% alternator output for an extended period may be correct!!

Check/charge/replace the battery and see what happens...Good Luck!!