Derf00

^^ This... put one wheel up in the air and grab the sway bar and rock it around (up/down and left/right) you'll feel it. I had that as one my last things to replace when chasing the front end noise on mine. That was the issue for mine. In order to do the bushings on these cars, you MUST undo the sway bar links. The bushings are solid so you can't slip it over the bar itself. You have slide it over the ends. May as well do the links while you're at it...

LordRipberger

Thanks for the heads up. I recently replaced the end links on my sway bar. They were part of the clanking when going over little bumps. Oh man, it was a constant rattle. It drove me insane.

I ordered the bushings but when they came in, they were too small. So I didn't' bother with it. They were a little old, but they seemed to fit well still and the sway bar didn't' move after I got everything back in. So I don't think that is it. But I will take a look again when I am under there this weekend.

flash_xx

I would have recommended the Konis but mine look like crap and have started clunking. If you just want to get shocks and struts go with Eibach. Close to your limit but well worth it.

This is what my Konis look like after around three years...

Derf00

Hmm, Do you have the stock Stabilizer bar? What brand of bushings did you order? I used OEM parts (Well FRPP where applicable) for all of my front end stuff including tie rods, except the struts (KYB).

The sway bar bushings are a very tight fit. I recommend a little bit of lithium grease to make sliding them on easier. And yes, getting them over the sway bar end with it's flattened wide end can be a bit hard. I used a socket that was a larger diameter than flat point on the bar to place over the hole of the bushing. I then took a hammer to hit the socket to push the bushing over the stabilizer bar flattened end. After that, with the grease, it was any easy slide.

But, if everything seems tight, just keep the tip for next time.

LordRipberger

I ordered them from RockAuto. I think what ended up happening was they sent me the rears instead of the front.

Yes, they were a bit difficult to get off, but I was able to do it with my hands. I did put a small amount of grease to get them back on.

yes, it is the stock sway bar.

I think it is the strut mounts and struts. A friend of mine agrees after I took him for a ride. He suggests buying a complete assembly because trying to compress springs and remove the mounts can be very dangerous. So I will see what I can find. Hopefully after replacing these last two things, all my sounds will be gone.

Then I need to do the serpentine belt.

Derf00

Hmm, Rock Auto should be able to swap them out for you without charging you if it's their mistake. That's happened to me before. I took picks and requested an RMA, they sent me the new parts before the old ones arrived back to them. As long as you return the RMA'd parts before 30 days, it's not an issue.

I'm not too keen on getting the complete strut assemblies for these cars. The only one I might consider is KYB but even then, any differences in spring rates would be obvious if they are softer and the strut mounting plate could be inferior to the OEM one. But, that's just me.

Struts aren't that difficult/dangerous. Just use a strut spring compressor kit. The best types are like these that secure the spring.
https://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/image...size_30664.jpg
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDQzNw==/z/V40AAOxyUrZS-rCR/$_35.JPG?set_id=2

I absolutely do not recommend these open style hook types. These can be dangerous because there is nothing to prevent the spring from popping out.
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...F3W3z8Vkpw.jpg

The mistake people make is cranking down one side of the tool to compress the spring all the way down on just one side, then either removing the spring all cockeyed or trying to tighten the other side of the tool to compress the other side of the spring.

This side loads the spring and puts a tremendous about of energy and force onto the tool. That force can cause binding of the tools bolt which can cause a lot of heat and snap it. Compress the spring about an inch at a time on each side. Not only is the easier on the tool and the spring, it makes it easier to seat the spring properly in the new strut assembly.

Norm Peterson

Whichever spring compressor you use, it's a good idea to lubricate the threads. Makes the job go easier (less friction) and doesn't beat the tool up as bad (much less likelihood of galling or other wear).




Norm

LordRipberger

I going to purchase the monroe brand off of RA. They ahve a rebate right now that basically makes my back shocks free and a small discount on the struts.

Considering the ones on my car last 50-70k miles, I think they are decent set.

I was going to get whole part, strut and strut mount for simplicity. Unless, we have a bunch of people on here saying that is a bad idea.

LordRipberger

Well I need to replace the mounts as well. I think those are where most of my noise is coming from. So if people really think it is a mistake to get a complete set, then I might reconsider. But it seems like a lot of work to keep the original springs when you are replacing everything else.

Rockauto did return them for me. I just didn't want to take it all apart again for some bushings that were still good.

Those tools do make compressing springs look pretty straight forward. But then I would need to spend more money on a tool, I wont' use very often. Not really a problem, I am proud of my tool collection. lol.

Derf00

Good on the return.

For this car yes, I would consider the all inclusive ones a bad idea. KYB might be the only ones I would consider for these cars. But, if you're going with anything other than KYB on the strut, go with Ford strut mounts and keep the stock springs.

Tools... You accumulate them throughout your lifetime working on cars. I can work on just about any domestic and most imports now except German. I could never afford everything I have now in one shopping spree (thousands). I've been collecting tools for about 23 years or so.

Going through that now in terms of gearing up to take on the maintenance on my wifes '13 VW turbo beetle. A lot of their stuff is 12 point bits called Triple- squares (not sockets) or allen head and I don't have a good complete set of either of those.

Hand tools like sockets, wrenches, torque wrenches and screw drivers, buy quality. Things like the strut spring compressor you can either borrow from the local auto shop for free or buy a mid-range one. Buy it once and never have to buy it again.