351 Mustang

Bracing the subframe

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Old 09-07-2006, 02:07 AM
  #1  
lemonademaker
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Default Bracing the subframe

Hey!

Still kinda green on some areas of my 89 LX. It's got a 5spd + 351W. The previous owner had made a comment on the e-bay auction that I should brace the subframe before any serious hod-rodding. Is the mustang (1989) a body/frame style? What do I need to get? Would Summit Racing have it? Keep in mind, that it IS a 351 and I've just got my little stock hatchback with no structural mods aside from a rear seat delete. What do you recommend? I'd like some mods that keep it from flexing/twisting too much, while making sure it still will grab me by the seat of my pants and steer like a streamlined butterfly on those Colorado roads.

P.S. Any word on the fan size of a 351W? I have no idea about the of my engine, right now it's got a 15" fan, I didn't know if it was meant to run something bigger.

Thanks folks! Ya'll are the best!
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:43 PM
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r.barn
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Default RE: Bracing the subframe

www.maximummotorsports.com

you Full legnth , weld in sub-frame connectors.

you might want to have the Torque boxes re-inforced also.
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:47 PM
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lemonademaker
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Default RE: Bracing the subframe

what's a torque box?
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:54 PM
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Arrid Extra Dry
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Default RE: Bracing the subframe

go to a welding shop and by some metal and weld it in, its cheaper, and the sub frame connectors you buy... usually you have to modify anyway
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:22 PM
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lemonademaker
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Default RE: Bracing the subframe

weld them from where to where? and how much would it cost?
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:32 PM
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4Stangs
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Default RE: Bracing the subframe

Get the full-length Maximum Motorsports subframe connectors as r.barn said. I've used them exclusively on my last 3 builds. They fit perfectly and come with clear instructions for welding. Definitely weld them for the best results. They sit flush against the front and rear subframes and connect the 2 into one solid piece fom rear all the way to the lower firewall (full-length).

I've used UPR's upper and lower torque box re-enforcement plates. They work ok. The uppers require removal of the back seat (if you have one), but that's easy. These pieces weld/bolt into place where the upper and lower control arms connect to the car. It doesn't take much to egg-shape the factory connecting bolt holes and crack the mounts where they are spot-welded to the car. Doing this before there is a problem will save you some headaches later.

P.S. About $200 for the parts.
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