so i have a 2006 4.0 with xpipe, coilovers, drag radials, and a custom 93 tune from cody at stang hi. i have a 50 shot on it but am using the 89 tune while still using 93 gas; the car is running fine and pulls hard. My question is i plan on getting a dyno tune in 2-3 weeks for a 100 shot. Has anybody run into any problems with this yet?

 

my goal is mid 13's btw.

 

I would think you need a different tune to accomadate that and possibly different plugs/gaping.

 

i already have new plugs and gapped them to what is on zex's website. I'm honestly just worried about blowing my motor.

 

The 100 shot will be more than fine with the dyno tune. Mid 13 should be in your future no problem. I would also run a fuel pressure safety switch and a bottle heater if your not already. Not sure if you're auto stick but my clutch started slipping after a few months of hard 1-2 shifts, that was on street tires. Also, took a toll on the 7.5 rear as I broke a spider gear tooth that slowly ate more teeth. After upgrading the clutch the street tires were no match for hard shifting and so i ugraded to DR's. On the second pass I left at 3500 on the bottle and blew a bunch of teeth of the spider gears. Forgot about the warning not top push the 7.5 that hard. I've yet to upgrade to the 8.8.

 

its an auto. I launch at around 2000. i have nitto 555r's on the back right now but i'm getting nitto nt05r's for the rear in about a month and nt05's for the front. im spraying in first to so having traction is a must.

 

What rpm are you spraying at?

 

3000rpm's

 

Sounds like a disaster! Would you recommend the Tlok in a 7.5 just for regular driving with a vortech and maybe sometimes to the track but not beat on it?

 

The Vortech isn't going to give you that same violent low end torque hit the nitrous does, plus on street tires and only limited racing won't be to harsh so I'd say it will hold up OK. Over time it will probably start to wear down and hopefully will start making noise rather than any outright failure. I wouldn't say I would recommend it but you probably will get away with it. The decision would depend a lot depends on your budget, mechanical skills and long term goals. The t-lock isn't that expensive, will get you in the game and should probably serve you fine for few years. Swapping the open diff back in is easy enough should it break. If that seems like a waste of money and bad risk and logic to you then upgrade. Your next consideration is staying with the 7.5 or not. If you want to stay with the 7.5 then consider a Detroit Tru-Trac LSD, otherwise an upgrade to an 8.8 take off. Now even with the heavy duty Tru-Trac keep in mind that JimC did break his 7.5 pinion gear early on (pre Xcharger) and I believe this was on a 100 shot and w/ DR's. Could have been a fluke and unless you plan on upping the boost you won't have the same force at launch to deal with. If you can afford some down time due to breakage then you may want to go the less expensive route and try not beat on it too much. Then step up to the next level when it breaks. If you don't have a back up car need to pay for all the repair or replace labor then it may make more sense to save up and make it as bullet proof as possible up front.
Another thing to consider - I don't believe the spider gears are any stronger on the open rear, unless the metal is better. So if your going to drive it only marginally harder then your doing your own research already:-).
If you go the save up route you should know yourself - will you get bored with the car and end up selling it before you follow through with a long term plan? will you actually save the cash up?