I am loading up to pull the trigger on a Xtreme and have a couple gauge questions. I have read multiple threads on here (the search function is very helpful) and I think I've picked out some good gauges. Auto-meter boost, fuel pressure, and AF Wideband, and I'm going to mount them on the dash.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105...oductId=760201
http://www.americanmuscle.com/autometer-boost.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/autometer-fuel.html

Anyways, with the o2 that comes with the A/F, does that replace an existing one or do I need to add a bung for it? I have an X pipe, so I assume if adding one I'd just pick a side and put it in before the cats.

Is there a risk of blowing out the factory cats when adding the SC? I've heard of that happening, but don't know if its a common thing or just something that happened once.

I have been having a hard time finding installs for the 3 gauges and was wondering if anybody could shed some light on diffulty level or advice regarding the install of these. Or advice for or against any of them.

Thanks in advance
Josh

 

You will need a new bung for the AFR - easy to do, if you have access to a welder. Make sure you orient the sensor to between 10 and 2 so it doesn't get fouled out, don't put it facing up from the bottom and it goes before the cats.

I put 90,000 miles on my original cats after the blower before I had to replace them. They were plugged up, but they had 183,500 miles on them so I can't say that the blower had anything to do with it.

The gauges are easy to install. Boost will tap into the Xcharger and the instructions tell you where to put the T. The tube comes through a plug on the firewall on the passenger side on my set up and up to the gauge. For the AFR I have the wiring on the driver side going into the fender well and down because that is the side my bung is on. A wire goes across to tap power at the fuse box in the engine bay as I recall, and there is another wire that goes to the fuse box at the passenger feet inside - that is also where I tapped for power to the light on my boost/vacuum gauge. I should redo my boost/vacuum wiring though so it pulls power from the light switch and dims with the dash; it has wire to do so but I didn't use it.

For the fuel pressure you need a different set up to connect. Check with Dave at Explorer Express and he can tell you what you need. It will connect on the fuel line at the driver side shock tower because there isn't enough space to tap into the fuel rail sensor that will be below the intake on the Xcharger.

 

And welcome to the "X-men"! You will love it. If you have any questions during the install feel free to post up - but I spend most of my time on mustangcollective.com and there are a lot of Xchargers over there as well.

 

Congrats on the FI man! Looking forward to seeing some pics, videos, and numbers!

 

Thanks for the detailed info in the other post. I appreciate the advice and will keep in mind. I'll talk with Dave when I order about the fuel gauge hook-up. If I have any issues during the install I will surely post them up here or on the collective. I won't be ordering the X for a week or so, but I'll throw pictures up as soon as I get them.

I'm not an X-man YET, but should be SOON!!


Thanks again
Josh

 

my tuner turned off my o2 sensors , so I used the passengers side o2 bung for my wide band , year and a half with no issues yet. if d.m.v. checks your computer for readiness it could b an issue for you

 

+1, my tuner turned mines off unknowingly and I could not pass emissions for readiness. I had a new bung welded it for my A/F.

 

Good call Turbo and Redfire, I plan to use the tune that comes with it and get the whole works tuned in spring, probably. So I think I will just add the additional bung. Also, I live in an area where I don't have emissions testing, so I am not to worried about that.

But thanks for the heads up.

 

I paid $20 I think with my own bung to have a hole drilled and it welded in.

 

I bought the bung from Jegs for like $10. I just need to pull the section of pipe off the car. I have welders at work and can do it myself...but for $20 I think I would just pay somebody to do it. I'll have to check what it would cost for an exhaust shop to just do it.