Convertible Top Wiring Help
10-19-2011, 07:19 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 338
Convertible Top Wiring Help
Ok guys, I went and did it. I bought the one-touch convertible top module from AM (http://www.americanmuscle.com/onetou...op-switch.html). Followed the instructions, cut and spliced the correct wires, yet nothing happens with my top. And worse, it's stuck in the top down position...
Anyone out there use this module and do it themselves that can help troubleshoot? The only things I can think of is the quick splice connectors are not making contact or the module is bad.
Thanks for the help!
Anyone out there use this module and do it themselves that can help troubleshoot? The only things I can think of is the quick splice connectors are not making contact or the module is bad.
Thanks for the help!
10-20-2011, 05:26 PM
#2
Ok guys, I went and did it. I bought the one-touch convertible top module from AM (http://www.americanmuscle.com/onetou...op-switch.html). Followed the instructions, cut and spliced the correct wires, yet nothing happens with my top. And worse, it's stuck in the top down position...
Anyone out there use this module and do it themselves that can help troubleshoot? The only things I can think of is the quick splice connectors are not making contact or the module is bad.
Thanks for the help!
Anyone out there use this module and do it themselves that can help troubleshoot? The only things I can think of is the quick splice connectors are not making contact or the module is bad.
Thanks for the help!
Do you have an Ohm-Meter or a test-light?
I would recommend checking to make sure the electrical signal is properly passing through your connections. If all the connections are good, check for continuity through the switch/relay.
If you're still having troubles, please give my Parts Experts a call and they should be able to help walk you through trouble-shooting it!
I hope this helps!
Let me know if you have any questions in the future!
10-20-2011, 07:02 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 338
Thanks Chris, I was going to call you guys tomorrow, but I ended up fixing it.
I had a hunch the quick splices were not making a good connection, so I ended up cutting the wires and using a wire nut and electrical tape. Sure enough, that was the problem.
For future reference if anyone reads this who will be doing this modification,
Make sure your quick splice metal tabs are pushed THE ENTIRE WAY DOWN to make the connection properly.
Overall, I am so excited that I don't have to hold the button anymore! Thanks AM!
I had a hunch the quick splices were not making a good connection, so I ended up cutting the wires and using a wire nut and electrical tape. Sure enough, that was the problem.
For future reference if anyone reads this who will be doing this modification,
Make sure your quick splice metal tabs are pushed THE ENTIRE WAY DOWN to make the connection properly.
Overall, I am so excited that I don't have to hold the button anymore! Thanks AM!
10-21-2011, 02:05 PM
#4
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
IDC (or insulation displacement connectors)
have a long history of intermittent. or in your
case. no contact.
9 times out of ten, thats the problem with
?fauly? splice in taillight sequencer kits...
I did the 'one touch' turn signal mod and
boy is that a nice convience...
Soldered and heatshrinked every connection...
have a long history of intermittent. or in your
case. no contact.
9 times out of ten, thats the problem with
?fauly? splice in taillight sequencer kits...
I did the 'one touch' turn signal mod and
boy is that a nice convience...
Soldered and heatshrinked every connection...
10-21-2011, 04:09 PM
#5
Thanks Chris, I was going to call you guys tomorrow, but I ended up fixing it.
I had a hunch the quick splices were not making a good connection, so I ended up cutting the wires and using a wire nut and electrical tape. Sure enough, that was the problem.
For future reference if anyone reads this who will be doing this modification,
Make sure your quick splice metal tabs are pushed THE ENTIRE WAY DOWN to make the connection properly.
Overall, I am so excited that I don't have to hold the button anymore! Thanks AM!
I had a hunch the quick splices were not making a good connection, so I ended up cutting the wires and using a wire nut and electrical tape. Sure enough, that was the problem.
For future reference if anyone reads this who will be doing this modification,
Make sure your quick splice metal tabs are pushed THE ENTIRE WAY DOWN to make the connection properly.
Overall, I am so excited that I don't have to hold the button anymore! Thanks AM!
I would recommend soldering those connections to make sure they stick/hold very well! Wouldn't want to get caught in the rain with a top that won't go up because the electrical connection failed!
IDC (or insulation displacement connectors)
have a long history of intermittent. or in your
case. no contact.
9 times out of ten, thats the problem with
?fauly? splice in taillight sequencer kits...
I did the 'one touch' turn signal mod and
boy is that a nice convience...
Soldered and heatshrinked every connection...
have a long history of intermittent. or in your
case. no contact.
9 times out of ten, thats the problem with
?fauly? splice in taillight sequencer kits...
I did the 'one touch' turn signal mod and
boy is that a nice convience...
Soldered and heatshrinked every connection...
They are supposed to require a special crimping tool, which when used makes it almost impossible to pull the connection apart. However, I have found a regular crimper and some pliers work just fine!
10-21-2011, 07:13 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 338
Oh yes. I spent too much time under there in a strange contorted position, and I do not want to see those wires for a while! haha, but yes, sometime this winter I am probably going to head back in and solder and heat shrink the connections or something. But for now, I think wire nuts and electrical tape will do!
Thanks for the help everyone!
Thanks for the help everyone!
10-22-2011, 08:59 AM
#7
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Wire nuts are fine until they get wet.
Are they orientated in such a fashion
so as any water that falls on them
does not collect inside the wire nut?
Kinda like when you are standing up
straight and have a dunce cone on
your head and the water does not
collect inside it? Or the other way
around? The springs inside wire nuts
(if it has one) are steel and prone to RUST.
ps wire nuts are not right unless
they are of the proper size, have
a spring in them and are tight
The small white colored ones that
came with the celing fan you purchased
from Lowes and didnt use are worthless
in this application...
Are they orientated in such a fashion
so as any water that falls on them
does not collect inside the wire nut?
Kinda like when you are standing up
straight and have a dunce cone on
your head and the water does not
collect inside it? Or the other way
around? The springs inside wire nuts
(if it has one) are steel and prone to RUST.
ps wire nuts are not right unless
they are of the proper size, have
a spring in them and are tight
The small white colored ones that
came with the celing fan you purchased
from Lowes and didnt use are worthless
in this application...
Last edited by 157dB; 10-22-2011 at 12:32 PM.
10-22-2011, 04:43 PM
#10
Oh yes. I spent too much time under there in a strange contorted position, and I do not want to see those wires for a while! haha, but yes, sometime this winter I am probably going to head back in and solder and heat shrink the connections or something. But for now, I think wire nuts and electrical tape will do!
Thanks for the help everyone!
Thanks for the help everyone!
Please let me know if you have any questions in the future!
Have a great weekend!
