I have been able to fix everything else by using search but I am stuck. I have a 07 Mustang with V6. 110,000 miles on the clock. Runs good but I had some transmission issues. It threw a code and I checked it. After the research, and a few emails, I was ready to do the servo swap with the o rings. I swapped out the servos, did a band adjustment as per the instructions and got it back together. The filter has been changed and I added fluid from the bottom of the pan as the instructions advise. I am not getting any gear. The transmission will not engage. I have checked the shifter linkage, i thought it could be the solenoids, so I dropped the pan and changed the solenoids. I refilled the fluid back per instructions. It still will not engage any gear. I have gone back and checked the shift cable, I checked the plugs, it all looks the way it should and the way it was before I messed with it. Does anyone have any ideas for me to try or check? I have been on this for four days.

 

I'd check the servo seals. Most I've seen have a lip which makes the directional. Maybe you have it in backwards. The servo and seals are part of the problem with these transmissions. It is the servo pin bore in the case that is the main problem.

 

I have gone back and checked the servo seals and put it back together, again, and still the same. Not engaging at all

 

I’ve done a few upgrades to my trans so I am familiar with these. The most likely cause is that you’re not adding enough fluid when you refill the trans. See #3 below for why.

Did you replace the servos with the trans in the car?

Are all four wheels up in the air?
How much trans fluid are you putting in?
how are you checking the level of the fluid?
Is the car on when you add your fluid?

Heres why I ask from my own experience: this trans is like any other auto trans, the car must be on and the fluid warmed up to get a proper fluid level reading.

1) you need to have all four tires off the ground and the vehicle needs to be level for an accurate reading

2) if the car is off when you fill, the trans pump isn’t on which mean you won’t be adding as much fluid as you need.

3) if you only check the level when the car is off, the second you start up the car, the level will drop as the trans pump sucks fluid up. Since the level requirement is based off of a running car and warm fluid, if you’re checking it with the car off and cold, you are underfillling.

4) what i do is I keep the car off until it starts to dribble out of the center hole like it should. I then start the car and put the trans into ‘D’. At this point you will probably not get any movement from the rear wheels. (Even if you do, you won’t be at the right level. I then continue to add fluid until the wheels start moving.

5)Once the wheels are moving I start to check the fluid level again, adding it in until it dribbles out. Once it starts dribbling out, I close off the level plug. With my foot on the brakes I put it through all gears, one at a time for about 5 seconds, including reverse to make certain everything is lubbed. Put it into park and let it idle for another 5-10 minutes to warm up the fluid.

6) One last level check with the car running and done.

 

All four wheels up in the air and level
4.5 quarts came out when I dropped the pan, i started by adding 5.5 quarts back in
I check the level with the car on and warm. Thermometer is at 100 degrees when I check the level
I have put fluid in with the car off. I then start it and wait for it to warm. I go through all the gears for 5 seconds each, all the way down and all the way up.
I then go under the car and pull my hose off the filler adapter. I had a quart come out before it started dribbling.

I will try this again. I will try having the trans in D and adding fluid.

 

That seems like too little fluid, especially having the solenoid pack removed before. The pan itself holds 4.5 quarts. With the transmission pump running, it will easily take at least another 1/2 quart when it builds pressure and up to 1 to 1.5 quarts when you've had other parts removed

If you're still not getting any rear wheel movement with my method then either the solenoid pack isn't working or your Pump may not be building any pressure.

Double check the solenoid pack connector on the outside of the trans. It only takes 89 inch/lbs (not ft/lbs) If that round connector is cracked or any of the pins are bent it could cause the solenoids to not engage properly.

Given that your fluid level isn't dropping i'd be leaning towards a pump issue. There's a flow control valve on the pump that can get stuck and lead to no movement in any gear because the pump failes to create any pressure.

On the first page of the PDF below you can see where the Line pressure fitting is. It's a bit inaccurate. It's just below and to the right of the range selector connector. You'll need a gauge with the proper range and NPT fitting to get a reading with the trans in gear. If it shows correct pressure for the gear(s) selected, then it's not the pump.
http://www.ratiotek.com/5r55w-complete.pdf

A more clear view is here.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...315820&slide=0

 

It is the fluid level. I got the wheels to turn and that was after 3 more quarts.
I pulled the pump line off the fill adapter and the 3 quarts came back out before it started dribbling. Then the wheels stopped.
The car was running and warm.
I will get 3 more quarts and try again tomorrow.

 

well, I’m glad you got it figured out the trans works but, that is odd that you lose all the fluid you put in and the wheels stop turning. For the record, 7.5 to 8 quarts is what it’s taken both times I had the solenoid pack and valve body out.

If you look at page 23 of this service manual you can see that with the fluid level at the correct height, there’s not much that can be wrong. If you are filling and leveling the fluid the way you are supposed to, which you are, the only other thing that I can think of is that the two orange o-rings on the filter assembly that attach to the
Valve body aren’t sealing so, it’s just sucking air until you overfill the trans with the three quarts. At that point the fluid level is so high, it’s just sucked up directly by the valve body intake.

https://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content...logs/5R55S.pdf

Do you remember pulling out two rather thick orange o rings out with the old filter and putting two new ones in with the new filter? If you accidentally stacked them, the pan would probably still fit but you most likely would not get a good seal. Like when your straw has a hole.

 

Your orange o rings got me thinking. When i pulled the original filter out, I had to take out the bolts and pull the filter out. The orange o rings were stuck inside and I had to pull them out. I noticed when I put the new filter in, It would move around a lot. I was thinking about it sealing and being in straight when I put it in. With the o rings it would not stay in place and I had to hold it up as I put the two bolts back in and torque them. Today, I dropped the pan and pulled the filter. I took out the bolts and the filter just falls down. It moves around so I do not know if it is sealing. I took it back to autozone and told them it was not working, I got to exchange it for some more trans oil. I then went and ordered a motorcraft filter. I will try that when it comes in. What is a few more days without a car. I think I am closer to solving this.

 

Yeah,I don't recall the filter being that loose in there. The friction from the o-rings should at least hold the filter in place. The bolts are just there to secure it. O-rings not sealing would cause a lack of suction.

Did you remove the valve body at all or just the solenoid pack?