BeeRad

I've been thinking about upgrading cams, but I don't like the rough idle sound. I've heard some mustangs with cams that have a smooth idle, and they sound amazing. I'm assuming I would need a dyno tune in order to achieve this correct? Also, I know it depends on the size of the cams, but does anyone know how much rwhp the biggest and smallest cams add over production? Thanks!

2000GT4.6

Your modular isn't going to idle so roughly with a "stock bottom end" spec cam, that is to say a stage 1 or 2, that its going to be stalling out at an idle or anything.

What exactly are you not liking? Almost any cam is going to give that lope sound, and thats what makes a performance car sound good at idle.

A stage 1 or entry level cam will have less lope, less top end WHP, but more down low tq/power. A stage 2 cam will make more up top, have a more lopey idle, and make less power down low (and your power gains will start a little later).

No cam you can realistically run on a stock bottom end will make the car undrivable.

burn64

Get VT Stage 1 Cams, you won't have to replace the springs. I have some for sale if you want them, PM me a resonable offer. They are brand new, I bought a Cobra.

MrChubs1

What does the bottom end have to do with cam selection?

How much power a cam makes depends alot on the rest of your setup. Mismatched parts can make a terrible mess on the dyno.

01Steed

It's all in the duration and lobe separation angle. Your n/a grind cams, with lsa's of 108* or so, will idle more roughly than a "blower" cam, with lsa's of 113* or more. Keep the duration down to 230* @ 0.050" lift or less, and try to keep the duration as even as possible (intake and exhuast).
I'd suggest a Stage II blower cam. It's just slightly more aggressive than the stage I n/a cam, but the lsa is wider.
Also, you won't have to swap cams if you decide to add a blower/turbo. You can't use an n/a grind with a blower.
No matter what, you're going to end up with that signature "lope" that comes from cams. There really isn't a whole lot you can do about that. What you can do is minimize the tuning difficulties that come from a Stage II n/a grind or something with the same or more aggressive specs.

Chubstang

listen too a few clips of stage 1's, they seem to have really smooth idle.

01snake

bigger the cam the more hp the bigger the loop

if you want cams but dont want the loop then comp stag1 1's are prolly your best bet

ben790450

Because with most stage 2 cams you have to flycut the pistons in order to make them work. VT is the only brand i've talked to where you dont have to do that. They also dont degree them. You cant just throw stage 2 comp cams on a stock motor and expect them to work. . . .

But yeah dude stick with stage 1 cams

02STALKERGT

Having straight-thru mufflers like Magnapacks may help take away the extreme lope sound.

Mark99GT

You need to spin the rotating assembly past its limits to see the full potential of stage 2+ cams. Thats what the bottome end has to do with it. VT doesnt grind advanced timing into their cams, but thats not what degreeing them means.

Most people get away with stage 2 cams just fine, as long as they're degreed after they're installed. You shouldnt need to flycut pistons for them.

It sounds like VT stage 1 cams of comp xe262ah cams would be good for you.