jst98gtmustang

Geting ready to do a Pi swap on my 98 gt

What all parts do i need for the swap?
i know i need heads,manifold,cams.
but what other parts do i need to make it work.

andy98gt

You need the Ford head changing kit which is like 120 bucks. Im not sure if that comes with new Intake gaskets but you need those to. Also are you buying your heads new or used?

jst98gtmustang

Not sure yet,think im am going to get some new ones,i think i be better off

jEEd

here is everything you'll ever need to know about the whole swap! i've done it so if you come across any problems, don't hesitate to ask me.

Quote:

hey just so you know, this is where i got the info from... theres also one similar to this on sn95 forums and many other forums but this is probably the better one of them all.

http://forums.modulardepot.com/4-6l-...-write-up.html

Thanks to 5.0Stang on ModularDepot or David (5spd GT) not sure...

1996-1998 Mustang GT 4.6L – Installing 2001-2004 Romeo Heads/Cam/Intake for PI Head Swap

Parts Checklist:

01+ PI Romeo Heads with Cams – 1W7Z-6049-AA (RH) and 1W7Z-6049-AA (LH) (1 each)
01+ PI Intake Manifold Assembly – 1W7Z-9424-AB – (1 assembly)
99+ PI Cams - 1L2Z-6250-AA (RH) and 1L2Z-6250-DA (LH) - (1 each)
01+ PI Head Gaskets – 4C2Z-6051-AA (RH) and 4C2Z-6051-BA (LH) – (1 each)
01+ PI Intake Gasket – YL3Z-9439-BA -(1 each for a total of 2) – or Fel Pro – MS-92121
01+ Cam/Valve Cover Gaskets – F6AZ-6584-AA (RH) and F6AZ-6584-BA (LH) – (1 each)
New OEM Head Bolts – 5R3Z-6065-AA -(20 bolts)
Alternator Bracket - F8AZ-10153-EA – 96-98 with PI Intake/Al. Crossover - (1 bracket)
Coolant Tube – XR3Z-18B402-AA - (1 tube)
Coolant Nipple – F75Z-8555-AA – (1 nipple)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket – F1AZ-6020-A – (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket – F1AZ-6020-C – (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket – F6AZ-6020-BB – (1 gasket)
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets – YC2Z-9448-A - (4 gaskets)
Crankshaft Seal – F5AZ-6700-A – (1 seal)
Crankshaft Bolt – F5RZ-6A340-B aka: F1AZ-6A340-A – (1 bolt) or ARP-156-2501
Camshaft Bolts – YF7Z-6279-AA - (1 for each cam for a total of 2 bolts/10mm bolts)
OEM Dipstick or Lokar Oil Dipstick - XR3Z-6754-BA or LOK-ED-5014 – (1 dipstick)
Upper Plenum O-Ring – XR3Z-9L437-BA – (1 o-ring)
Thermostat O-Ring – F1VY-8255-A – (1 o-ring)
Water Pump O-Ring – F1VY-8507-A – (1 o-ring)
Header Down-Pipe Gasket – XR3Z-9450-AA – (1 gasket)
Stock or 180* Thermostat – 3L3Z-8575-AC (192*) or XL3Z-8575-AA (180*) - (1 t-stat)
Spark Plug Wires – F8PZ-12259-HA – (1 kit) – You do not need the wires, it is just an extra.
Spark Plugs – SP-505 – (8 plugs): Motorcraft AGSF-22C's gapped at .048 to .050 for normal street use or AWSFA-12C's for street/strip. The 12C's are 2 steps colder than stock and if you are going to run it hard it might be a better option.

1996-1998 Mustang GT 4.6L – Installing 1999-2000 Windsor Heads/Cam/Intake for PI Headswap

Parts Checklist:

99-00 PI Windsor Heads – 2L1Z-6049-DA (bare) and complete is 2L3Z-6049-BA (RH) and 2L3Z-6049-DA (LH) - (1 of each)
99+ PI Cams - 1L2Z-6250-AA (RH) and 1L2Z-6250-DA (LH) - (1 each)
01+ PI Intake Manifold Assembly – 1W7Z-9424-AB – (1 assembly)
99-00 PI Head Gaskets - FC2Z-6051-AA – (RH) and 4C2Z-6051-BA – (LH) – (1 each)
99-00 Intake Manifold Gasket - YL3Z-9429-BA - (1 each for a total of 2)
Cam/Valve Cover - 2L3Z-6582-BA and 2L3Z-6582-DA - (1 each)
Cam/Valve Cover Gasket - 2L3Z-6584-AA (LH) and 2L3Z-6584-BA (RH) – (1 each)
Cam/Valve Cover Bolts – Need 27 new/used windsor valve cover bolts/grommets.*
Windsor Head Bolts - 3L3Z-6065-AA - (20 bolts)
Alternator Bracket - F8AZ-10153-EA – 96-98 with PI Intake/Al. Crossover - (1 bracket)
Coolant Tube - XR3Z-18B402-AA - (1 tube)
Coolant Nipple - F75Z-8555-AA - (1 nipple)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket - F1AZ-6020-A - (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket - F6AZ-6020-BB - (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket - F1AZ-6020-C - (1 gasket)
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - YC2Z-9448-CA (4 gaskets)
Crankshaft Seal - F5AZ-6700-A – (1 seal)
Crankshaft Bolt – F5RZ-6A340-B aka: F1AZ-6A340-A – (1 bolt) or ARP-156-2501
Oil Dipstick or Lokar Oil Dipstick - XR3Z-6754-BA or LOK-ED-5014 (1 dipstick)
Upper Plenum O-Ring - XR3Z-9L437-BA - (1 o-ring)
Thermostat O-Ring - F1VY-8255-A - (1 o-ring)
Water Pump O-Ring - F1VY-8507-A- (1 o-ring)
Timing Cover Bolt - N808142-S437 – M10 - (Comes in Pack of 4, washers included)
Timing Cover Stud - N808140-S309 - M10 - (Comes in Pack of 4, washers included)
Timing Cover Stud - N808529-S309 -M10X1 5X1 - (Comes in Pack of 4)
Header Down-Pipe Gasket – XR3Z-9450-AA – (1 gasket)
Stock or 180* Thermostat – 3L3Z-8575-AC (192*) or XL3Z-8575-AA (180*)- (1 t-stat)
Spark Plug Wires – F8PZ-12259-HA – (1 kit)
Spark Plugs – SP-505 – 192* (8 plugs): Motorcraft AGSF-22C's gapped at .048 to .050 for normal street use or AWSFA-12C's for street/strip. The 12C's are 2 steps colder than stock and if you are going to run it hard it might be a better option.

* - Windsor valve cover bolts come with grommets that attach to the windsor bolts and Romeo valve cover bolts are separate from the grommets.

Ford Head Changing Kit – Applies for 96-04 Heads:

The head changing kit can save you some money. It includes head gaskets (older gen. 7 style), head bolts, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil dipstick tube, and head bolt bushings that help you install the heads in the engine bay. It keeps the head bolts from protruding past the bottom of the head while installing. Easily removed and easier to use. Keep in mind, the oil dipstick tube that comes with this kit does not line up to the head bracket area, but it can work in a pinch with some customizing. I had no issues with it. It is part number FMS-M-6067-D46 for a little over $100.

Parkway Performance 2V Headswap Complete Kit:

This kit is nice if you do not want to piece together the parts, but you may pay a bit more for the kit, than piecing it together.

More Windsor Head Swap Information:

Windsor Heads/Valve Covers has 13 (driver side) and 14 bolts (passenger side), and Romeo has 11 bolts.

If using Windsor heads (99-00), you will need 99-00 Valve Covers and extra valve cover bolts, Four 10mm bolts and 4 10mm studs (Romeos need 8mm) that put the timing cover to the head for a total of 8 with 4 on each side. Drill out heater tube bracket at the back of the head and get bigger bolt (10mm x 1.5 and 20/25mm) to hold down the bracket.

If you want to piece together the extra timing cover bolts and studs, here are the sizes:

(A) 5 long double studs (10x1.5 thread both studs, 18mm Hex) that go into the top 4 holes of the T.C. and 1 goes in the outside lower Driver side.

(B) 1 shorter double stud (10x1.5 / 6x1.00 thread, 18mm hex) that goes in the Pass. side outside lower hole.

(C) 2 Standard Timing Cover bolts (10x1.5 thread, 13mm hex) these go in the inside lower holes of both banks.

Windsor heads have separate cam journals and Romeo heads have two bridge style caps.

Windsor cam gears are press fit and not bolt-on like 96-98 and 01-04.

Chain guide differences in Romeo and Windsor:

The left bank chain guide has a minor difference. The early Romeo guides use two bolts in the cylinder head for the upper mount and a dowel in the block for the lower locator. The Windsor engines use 1 bolt in the head and one bolt in the block. The right bank Windsor head will have two holes in the head so it's a direct bolt in on that side. The left side, however will only have one bolt hole in the head so you'll be using 1 bolt and 1 dowel on the left bank if you use the original Romeo guides.

In other words, it will work fine either way.

Extra Parts If Needed:

ARP Camshaft Sprocket Bolt: ARP-256-1001 – 12mm x 1.5
12mm Camshaft/Crankshaft Bolt

andy98gt

Alright well if you buy brand new head you have to buy these plugs that go in the back. There actually pipe threading. All my oil come out as soon as i put it in when i did my swap because i had no idea the brand new heads didnt come with the plugs in the back. Also you should port and polish your heads and get a stage 2 cam. You will totally love that. I think you need a new Altrenator bracket i fabbed mine and it looks bad lol. You should get new Timing chain tensioners or if you have the money new timing chains. All your other seals to. Like front cover gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Dude you better be doing this with someone who is mechanically inclined totally because this can get tricky espcially the timing. Its hard to understand at first. You also need to get a Mechanic book from your local library the big blue one. Do not use a Chiltons or Haynes. I have had problems with those. They put the wrong firing order in there.

jst98gtmustang

Wow that helps ALOT!
Thanks Man

How much did is cost uin parts 2do the swap??

andy98gt

Haha ok just what he said.

jEEd

no problem... for myself, i payed $700 for...
-Reconditions/Refurbished 2004 Heads w/ 12k miles w/ a valve job done to it (basically everything done but P&P)
-04 PI Cams w/ 12k miles
-04 PI Intake w/ aluminum xover
-Ford Head Changing Kit
-PI intake Gaskets
-Head Gaskets
basically everything i needed to do the swap [8D]

and i did the whole swap in 14hours

Dsmfighter

Nice post Jeed. However the use of the PI altenator bracker is not needed, the NPI will work fine. I highly reccomend getting the lockar dipstick tube because getting the stocker back in sucks. If you can get away with out having to do emmisions checks get an EGR delete, makes life a little easier. Timing the engine isn't hard, but deff DO NOT DO IT HOW CHILTONS OR HAYNES TELLS YOU TO. I've seen several engines destroyed thanks to them.

I love my PI swap. I wouldn't do anything more then PI cams, put that $600 towards longtube headers or any other bolt on you don't have. I made 265whp and 306tq with just a pi swap, pulleys , t/b and pl, catless mid pipe, catback + tune. LT's and an electric water pump should have me around 290ish, but I'm going the n2o route.
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kura

Majeed is my hero IRL.