does any one on here run solid mount upper control arms on the street. i already have upgraded tubular upper with urethane bushings on each end but am considering welding in the inserts and heim joints to make them adjustable. how are thier street manners, loud, clunky, any problems?

btw i already welded the torque box reinforcements in so that shouldnt be a problem.

also if i dont go this route i have contemplated welding in a 3 link setup. does anyone have the maximum motorsport setup (torque arm, panhard bar). if so how does it hook up at the strip, mine would be slightly different as i would be using one large ladder bar type torque arm.

 

Anything more then rubber bushings in the UCAs you'll rip your torque boxes right out after a while.

The UCA's are the worst part of the rear suspension and poly bushings are bad for them much less then solid.
You also have chance of loosing control of the car because it will bind up and throw you into a wipe out when the rear end binds up under some cornering situations.

Read this site.... http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
This guy is very helpful when emailed. He has helped me figure a few things out I need to do.

Lynn

 

like said before i have already welded and reinforced my torque boxes, and even that guy mentions that adding spherical joints (heim joints are a spherical joint) would help straight line performance.

 

Here is a direct quote from an email to the guy that I got that runs the web site when I talked with him trough a bunch of emails.

"It's the aftermarket UCA's with very hard bushings or spherical bearings that impart twisting loads to the torque boxes and eventually tear them up. Bill"

Lynn

 

yea i get that but i already reinforced and welded upper boxes. for the control arms to rip my torque boxes off they would have to rip a3x8 plate through the entire floor. and if 9 second fox bodies use them im not worried about ripping them out with an end goal of 10.5 and only currently being in a 12 sec. car.

 

I run steeda adjustable uppers, steeda non adjustable lowers, and a torque box reinforcement kit and no problems at all. Trust me man you'll be fine, i know guys with 10-11 sec cars that run these setups no problem.

 

are yours the solid mounted uppers with heim joints on the body side?

 

I have ran the poly bushings in the uppers for almost 2 years now with no problems, and lots of launches on both nittos and MTs.

I don't see you ripping out the TQ boxes on any average street car. if you have completely stock boxes, a built rear, and are running slicks I can definalty see it tearing it up, but not on a street car.

If your worried about it just have the boxes welded up, or like theOP above get a reinforcement kit.

I have never experenced the snap effect everyone talks about, and we go on at least 2-3 cruises a year, running thru the local twistys with Evos, STI, and the like.

I can definatly say that when the shocks/struts are set properly the car still handles much better than stock, even with whats basically a drag racing setup.

 

I recently had my torque boxes seam welded, that's all you really need until you get in excess of 700-800RWHP. The battle boxes are really for cars that already have damage done!