so after this weekends fun of a parts install i have a very odd viberation....

the parts i put on were

slp long tubes
tokico d specs
h&r super sport springs
MM cc plates
60lb injectors, and i had my tuner shoot me over a new program to compensate for the changes. till i hit the dyno on the 24th

now my question, the car has a rough idle, but NOT the motor, it feels drive train relaited, the motor runs smooth as glass from up top, but i have a shake / viberation in the peddals and steering wheel after the parts install...

could it be the poly mounts used in the mm plates, and the polys in the tokicos causeing cowl shake?

or the long tubes perhaps?

it did not have this viberation before the parts install, but like i said motor runs great, clutch feels ok / shifts fine, engine runs like a monster like always, any suggestions?

btw anyone looking for suspension, I LOVEEEE the setup so far, tighten the shocks up and it has NO body roll or pitch, loosen them and the car rides 100 times more compliant then stock, and just as smooth, plus it looks great, i sware i have about 2.5" of clearance now under the car errrrr, so i wouldnt reccomend doing l/ts and the drop like i did for bad roads...

 

does it vibrate at the same rpm all the time ordoes it get worse as you speed up??

 

just at idle....

 

bump

 

you say that there is vibration in the pedels, but is the vibration in the shifter? if there is vibration in the shifter then it could be a drive train related thing. also where does it sound (not feel cuz that is in the pedals) like the problem is on the inside of the car and outside? did you also install a short mid pipe cuz a the stock midpipe wouldn't work the LTs, unless you just changed the long tube brands? if it is just at idle, then it could be a loose header and when you get on it you just don't hear it cuz of the exhaust.

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perhaps im thinking a loose header....

the viberation is NOT in the shifter

i has a slp catted x on it the modular one that works for both stock headers and long tubes.

the exhaust is SLP from the engine block to the back, slp long tubes, slp catted x, slp lm1

 

Hrrmm.. I really couldn't give ya a cause for that brudda.. though I can say that I've got the SLP ceramic coated LT's, hi-flo cat'd H-pipe, and the LM2's, with a TKO-600 and Ram HD 6-puck clutch and mine has a slight rattle through the shifter, but it still goes pretty smooth. The thing with mine is that with the billet flywheel and the 6-puck, mine's really set up for a "rev and dump" if that makes sense..

If it's NOT coming from the shifter, it MAY be a loose header, but then I'd think you'd notice that in how hard the car pulls cause you'd have an exhaust leak, so you'd loose a little power I would think.. That's as far as my thinking takes me broham.. Hope that helps..

 

hmm im gonna check it i hope its not loose, because its next to near impossible to tighten them....errr...

well i have a lightend flywheel and a spec stage 3+ so its not the smoothest setup on the planet but it didnt viberate before the mods.

as far as loosing power... i have no clue honestly, its a full bolts ons car, with a kenne bell 14lbs or so, full fuel system, and full suspension, so its really hard to tell of a before and after, the only difference i can tell is i get some traction. but yes there is a header leak i belive, and also i think my egr is hitting the firewall (DUR!)

also if there is an exhaust leak idk how to fix it because i cranked on every bolt when i had the k member out, so either im a total turd or there is some crazy way of installing headers and tightening them besides the normal 1, 3. 7, bolt ex: criss cross meathod to torque them down evenly.

 

Hrrmm.. I really don't know what to tell you there brudda, it sounds like you did it right when you torqued down all the exhaust bolts. [&:] And it's only rattling like this at idle? Definitely a strange case.. The only thing I could think to say would be maybe to re-check all the bolts to make sure they're tightened and everything is even across the board on the headers.. I was about to say you could check to see if flywheel was rattling but then that'd rattle the shift too I would I think and you'd have noticed that.. And considering they're fairly new headers (??), I wouldn't think there'd be any holes in the tubes that would cause a leak.. Heck even sucking weld slag into the block through the EGR wouldn't cause it to rattle and/or leak I don't think, though I could be wrong there..

You could probably have a good shop check it out just to see what's wrong with it for less than $150 bucks brudda, and give you suggestions on what you can do to fix it if you prefer to do your own work.. That at least would help methinks..

 

unfortuneately there is no good shops in the ny area that i would even begin to trust someone with my car, having 500whp is like putting a m16 in a 3 year olds hands, most of the people at shops are jerks see a sick car and are going to want to beat the daylights out of it because the owner wont know, hence why i do all my own work...i wish there was a good shop by me i could trust...the headers were brand NEW and if i have to retighten the bolts i have to remove the k member.....errrrrrrrr