headers
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 124
From:
Yes, the longtubes sound better and give you more power, but your going to have to change your midpipe. The shorties will give you more power and sound then stock, so if not the LTs then upgrade to shorties.
You should be able to keep your o/r x pipe for shorties.
You should be able to keep your o/r x pipe for shorties.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,045
From: TN
if you can go LT's. In heinsight i should have waited and bought long tubes and a shorty h and call it a day. I'm sure installation is a pretty penny considering it might be hard to get to the bolts that connect your headers. They may even be lock-tite. I know i had to put a torch on my bolts that were holding my stock midpipe on to get them loose.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 451
From: NJ
If price is not an issue then I would say get the long tubes and a matching mid pipe...either way you're gonna have to drop the k-member to install it so you might as well get the long tubes...performance specialties does installs for less than $400 so thats not a bad deal...
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,312
From: NJ
+1 on lt's. And you no DONT have to drop the k member. By the time you get all the suspension crap off and everything else just to drop it you could have both headers off trust me i just got done doing my headers. I didnt even use a lift. Just some extensions and swivels. Im not gonna lie its a pita but i feel it made a big difference for me. If i took the time to drop the k member it would have taken twice as long. If you have the extra money than just take it to a shop cause it is a pita but i didn't find it worthwhile to drop the k member i could get all of the studs just fine.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,252
From: yuma, az
u definitely dont have to drop the kmember. you just have to undo the motor mount bolt and but a wood block under the oil pan and tilt the engine over. you are going to have to disconnect the steering shaft (easy) and the the starter (also easy.)yes you are going to need some long extensions with a swivel joint too. i would also recommend a ratchet wrench to get some of the bolts, helped out a lot. as for the stock h-pipe, if you dont plan on saving it, just cut it off if you have problems with the bolt, about 60 seconds with a saw-zell. good luck.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 57
From: Brighton NY
u definitely dont have to drop the kmember. you just have to undo the motor mount bolt and but a wood block under the oil pan and tilt the engine over. you are going to have to disconnect the steering shaft (easy) and the the starter (also easy.)yes you are going to need some long extensions with a swivel joint too. i would also recommend a ratchet wrench to get some of the bolts, helped out a lot. as for the stock h-pipe, if you dont plan on saving it, just cut it off if you have problems with the bolt, about 60 seconds with a saw-zell. good luck.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,791
From: Cary/Charlotte, NC
I is just a PITA to get all of the bolts in, I actually did mine w/o dropping the K-member (YAY tubular).
Definitely worth it though, several week later I went to a Dyno day and there was a another Mustang there, he didn't have L/T's but he did have an o/r x-pipe and a cat back and a plenum (things I don't have). and I still dynoed 20rwhp higher than him.
Definitely worth it though, several week later I went to a Dyno day and there was a another Mustang there, he didn't have L/T's but he did have an o/r x-pipe and a cat back and a plenum (things I don't have). and I still dynoed 20rwhp higher than him.
