REBUILD IT MYSELF OR PAY SOMEONE??
02-04-2010, 04:26 PM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 732
^^ what he said. can't really make a recommendation without knowing what you plan to do with the motor down the road. since you're going with a forged rotating assembly, i'm assuming you plan on doing some type of forced induction, in which case you'll want dished pistons for a lower static compression ratio. if you want to build a hot n/a motor then go with a domed piston for higher compression. also, if you're staying n/a, you probably won't need a forged rotating assembly. i'm not sure the 4.6 will make enough power n/a to exceed the capabilities of the stock cast parts.
02-04-2010, 07:34 PM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 72
well its only like a 500 dollar difference between a stock and a forged. im replacing the stock due to the rod bearings goin out. and yes there is plans for forced induction ((2.6 kenne bell)). but with the purchace of the assembly settin me back 1900 it wont happen for a while. i didnt plan on rebuilding the bottom end yet so...i figure ill just get it ready for when i get the money for the charger. but as far as lowering the compression in the meantime with dished... how would that effect my daily drive??
02-04-2010, 10:14 PM
#6
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 732
well with a lower compression ratio, you won't make as much power n/a, but if you're absolutely certain that you'll be bolting on a kenne bell, then you should go ahead and get the dished pistons.
when you say "i didn't plan on rebuilding the bottom end yet" do you mean you're just purchasing the rotating assembly for future use? or are you going to go ahead and have the motor rebuilt with the new rotating assembly?
something else to consider... you will probably need to have the block bored .010" or .020" over (possibly more depending on how worn and out-of-round the cylinders are). if this is the case and you just put another set of standard-size pistons in there, you may not get adequate ring seal and you'll lose power as a result (especially when you bolt on the blower). whether or not the block needs to be bored depends on a lot of factors, but if your motor has quite a few miles then there's a good possibility you'll need to have it done. only way to tell is to pull the cylinder heads and check, if you're not familiar with how to do this then i suggest you take it to a machine shop. if the block doesn't need to be bored, then you can just get a good cross-hatch by honing the cylinders and be good to go with standard-size pistons.
when you say "i didn't plan on rebuilding the bottom end yet" do you mean you're just purchasing the rotating assembly for future use? or are you going to go ahead and have the motor rebuilt with the new rotating assembly?
something else to consider... you will probably need to have the block bored .010" or .020" over (possibly more depending on how worn and out-of-round the cylinders are). if this is the case and you just put another set of standard-size pistons in there, you may not get adequate ring seal and you'll lose power as a result (especially when you bolt on the blower). whether or not the block needs to be bored depends on a lot of factors, but if your motor has quite a few miles then there's a good possibility you'll need to have it done. only way to tell is to pull the cylinder heads and check, if you're not familiar with how to do this then i suggest you take it to a machine shop. if the block doesn't need to be bored, then you can just get a good cross-hatch by honing the cylinders and be good to go with standard-size pistons.
