Clutch Replacement
11-14-2010, 08:04 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 186
Clutch Replacement
K im getting ready to put a clutch in my 04 GT this week and i've got a couple of questions?
what would you all suggest on then type of clutch to get? Im pretty stock for now but have plans for some bolt ons and thats about it for awhile. I do alot of daily driving so i dont want the stiffness of the clutch to be to terrible hard.
Any special tools im gonna need besides an alignment tool and any hints or tips with the teardown or install.
Thanks
what would you all suggest on then type of clutch to get? Im pretty stock for now but have plans for some bolt ons and thats about it for awhile. I do alot of daily driving so i dont want the stiffness of the clutch to be to terrible hard.
Any special tools im gonna need besides an alignment tool and any hints or tips with the teardown or install.
Thanks
11-14-2010, 08:17 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Adams,MA
Posts: 454
Get a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch for your Ford Mustang.
I have a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch on my bolt on Ford
Mustang GT and it's the best clutch I ever had.It also takes all
the abuse I give it and the petal pressure is very light and the
shifts are very positive I love this clutch!
The install is pretty straight forward really.Plan on installing a
new flywheel or resurfacing your old flywheel if it isn't damaged.
Also replace your throwout bearing,pilot bearing, and inspect your
clutch cable to see if it needs to be replaced.
www.performanceintl.com
I have a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch on my bolt on Ford
Mustang GT and it's the best clutch I ever had.It also takes all
the abuse I give it and the petal pressure is very light and the
shifts are very positive I love this clutch!
The install is pretty straight forward really.Plan on installing a
new flywheel or resurfacing your old flywheel if it isn't damaged.
Also replace your throwout bearing,pilot bearing, and inspect your
clutch cable to see if it needs to be replaced.
www.performanceintl.com
Last edited by Bladerunner; 11-14-2010 at 08:19 PM.
11-14-2010, 08:52 PM
#4
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 111
Get long extensions for the bell housing and starter bolts. At least 30 inches of extensions. More is better. A good 13mm swivel socket is nice, too.
I'm not sure if the '04 is the same as my '00, but if it has the same O2 sensor bracket held in place by the top two bell housing bolts. I would suggest, instead of trying to put it back in place, just delete it. It will fight you all the way. It is not really necessary either, IMO.
Get some blue thread locker for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Make sure you use the proper torque specs for those bolts, too.
If you don't replace your flywheel, make sure you get your old one resurfaced. Clean the flywheel, p.p., and clutch disc with brake cleaner before you install them.
I used a resurfaced stock flywheel, Centerforce D.F. clutch, FRPP pilot and throwout bearings. I love it! Works flawlessly. Good Luck!
I'm not sure if the '04 is the same as my '00, but if it has the same O2 sensor bracket held in place by the top two bell housing bolts. I would suggest, instead of trying to put it back in place, just delete it. It will fight you all the way. It is not really necessary either, IMO.
Get some blue thread locker for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Make sure you use the proper torque specs for those bolts, too.
If you don't replace your flywheel, make sure you get your old one resurfaced. Clean the flywheel, p.p., and clutch disc with brake cleaner before you install them.
I used a resurfaced stock flywheel, Centerforce D.F. clutch, FRPP pilot and throwout bearings. I love it! Works flawlessly. Good Luck!
11-14-2010, 11:55 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 234
11-15-2010, 10:47 AM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,312
Heres what i do:
1. Obviously jack the car up but put it as high as you can go on all 4s
2. Remove the shifter by taking the **** off than plastic cover with the shift boot attached off than the rubber boot which is four bolts than unbolt the base from the trans which is another four bolts
3. Remove the clutch cable located under the dust shield on the bottom of the trans
to do this theres a little retaining clip as well that you have to take off in order to get it out. And unplug the harness containing the speed sensor wires and the o2 sensors. After you unplug them you have to pull them off the tranny youll see what i mean when you get under there.
4. Remove the driveshaft but mark it with soap stone or a sharpie beforehand so it goes back in the same way
5. This is up to you but i would get a plug for where the output shaft on the trans is. Its a little plastic piece that shoves in there and protects the splines as well as keeps the fluid in there.
6. Put a jack underneath the rear portion of the trans and take the crossmember out
7. (The most pain in the a$$ part) Un bolt the starter. I used a really extension and reached from the front of the motor to get the last bolt on top of the starter which is the hardest one. You may find other tricks from other people but this works for me. The other two arent too bad.
8. start taking the bell housing bolts out working your way up around the top. When you start getting closer to the top start lowering the jack to give you more room to work.
9. Once there all out the fight is on to pull the trans out. Theres a bunch of different ways to do it. I have a motorcycle jack that i use as a trans jack. But basically the key is to take the weight off the input shaft and pull the trans straight out.
10. Remove the pressure plate. I use an impact gun so the motor doesnt spin when im trying to take them off.
11. Remove the pilot bearing it really helps to have a pilot bearing puller for this. Or else you can do a trick using grease that you can google. It basically uses the concept of hydraulics to force the bearing out.
12. Remove the flywheel and get it replaced or resurfaced. Once again using an impact gun.
13. Take a break your only halfway there hahaha.
14. Put it all back together. But this time put the pilot bearing in before the flywheel so you can seat it in there properly. Put some grease around it and use the old pilot bearing or a socket to it hit it in straight.
After that just do everything in reverse. Flywheel/Pressure plate and make sure you torque everything evenly. If you get a new cable quadrant and firewall adjuster they come with directions to install them. There pretty simple. Other tips would be if you have air tools such as an air ratchet it makes the job 10x faster. The only thing i would say though is if you havent done it which im guesing not than just take your time. Ive rushed plenty of things that ive even done before and thats when you make mistakes and wind up taking more time to do the job because you broke something or you forgot to put a part in and have to take something completely apart again haha. But Good Luck and have fun!
1. Obviously jack the car up but put it as high as you can go on all 4s
2. Remove the shifter by taking the **** off than plastic cover with the shift boot attached off than the rubber boot which is four bolts than unbolt the base from the trans which is another four bolts
3. Remove the clutch cable located under the dust shield on the bottom of the trans
to do this theres a little retaining clip as well that you have to take off in order to get it out. And unplug the harness containing the speed sensor wires and the o2 sensors. After you unplug them you have to pull them off the tranny youll see what i mean when you get under there.
4. Remove the driveshaft but mark it with soap stone or a sharpie beforehand so it goes back in the same way
5. This is up to you but i would get a plug for where the output shaft on the trans is. Its a little plastic piece that shoves in there and protects the splines as well as keeps the fluid in there.
6. Put a jack underneath the rear portion of the trans and take the crossmember out
7. (The most pain in the a$$ part) Un bolt the starter. I used a really extension and reached from the front of the motor to get the last bolt on top of the starter which is the hardest one. You may find other tricks from other people but this works for me. The other two arent too bad.
8. start taking the bell housing bolts out working your way up around the top. When you start getting closer to the top start lowering the jack to give you more room to work.
9. Once there all out the fight is on to pull the trans out. Theres a bunch of different ways to do it. I have a motorcycle jack that i use as a trans jack. But basically the key is to take the weight off the input shaft and pull the trans straight out.
10. Remove the pressure plate. I use an impact gun so the motor doesnt spin when im trying to take them off.
11. Remove the pilot bearing it really helps to have a pilot bearing puller for this. Or else you can do a trick using grease that you can google. It basically uses the concept of hydraulics to force the bearing out.
12. Remove the flywheel and get it replaced or resurfaced. Once again using an impact gun.
13. Take a break your only halfway there hahaha.
14. Put it all back together. But this time put the pilot bearing in before the flywheel so you can seat it in there properly. Put some grease around it and use the old pilot bearing or a socket to it hit it in straight.
After that just do everything in reverse. Flywheel/Pressure plate and make sure you torque everything evenly. If you get a new cable quadrant and firewall adjuster they come with directions to install them. There pretty simple. Other tips would be if you have air tools such as an air ratchet it makes the job 10x faster. The only thing i would say though is if you havent done it which im guesing not than just take your time. Ive rushed plenty of things that ive even done before and thats when you make mistakes and wind up taking more time to do the job because you broke something or you forgot to put a part in and have to take something completely apart again haha. But Good Luck and have fun!
11-15-2010, 10:11 PM
#8
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 119
98red, that's a great summary walk-through; I may be replacing my clutch during the winter, pretty sure my stocker is starting to slip, so I'm looking for any and all tips I can find. I've done lots of wrenching, have a large compliment of tools and equipment, and willingly tackle most items, but I've always stopped before serious engine and drivetrain work. I know I'm capable of changing a clutch, just still makes me nervous thinking about messing something up.
Thankfully, I do have some decent air tools. The impact wrench is great, when you can get at the bolts with it; the size of the impact wrench often makes it difficult when you're working in tight spaces, which I'm assuming would be the case when trying to remove the tranny. You specifically mention an air ratchet coming in handy; what portions does the air ratchet help with? How much torque does your air ratchet have? I ask because the air ratchet I have only has, I think, around 45 lbs. of torque, and really doesn't have the ***** to break much loose, so I'm just curious how useful it might actually be. Should I try to find one with more torque?
Thankfully, I do have some decent air tools. The impact wrench is great, when you can get at the bolts with it; the size of the impact wrench often makes it difficult when you're working in tight spaces, which I'm assuming would be the case when trying to remove the tranny. You specifically mention an air ratchet coming in handy; what portions does the air ratchet help with? How much torque does your air ratchet have? I ask because the air ratchet I have only has, I think, around 45 lbs. of torque, and really doesn't have the ***** to break much loose, so I'm just curious how useful it might actually be. Should I try to find one with more torque?
Last edited by nagata; 11-15-2010 at 10:17 PM.
11-16-2010, 08:55 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,312
I use it to take the bellhousing bolts/the crossmember bolts basically whatever would usually take more time with just a ratchet or wrench. And a trick is to use it as a regular ratchet to break the bolt loose than just hit the trigger and buzz it out. Honestly i have no idea how much torque they have. I have 3. 1/2 inch 3/8ths and 1/4 inch. Im sure there all rated differently. I usually just use the 3/8ths and like i said break it loose than hit the trigger.