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Considering getting a kenne bell

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Old 03-18-2011, 09:25 PM
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Andy13186
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Default Considering getting a kenne bell

After almost dieing about 30-50 times on my cbr1000rr(but never actually crashing- knock on wood) i am considering selling it and possible getting a kenne bell setup for my 5 speed 03 gt with 98k miles on it. I would want to make it a beast with about 550 rwhp hopefully. I know the internals arent good after about 400 hp- so what would i need to replace internally just rods and pistons? I know a guy who has built an engine and is currently working on a 302 ci (5.0) engine, may have him help on the build if i actually attempt it myself. If i decide not to attempt to do this id find some place near tampa to do it hopefully for a decent price(any estimates on the price it would be?)

How much would a 550 hp kenne bell setup run(with engine mods and intercooler) if i installed it myself? How much to get installed at a shop?

Things id need would be the kenne bell kit and mabe new fuel pump also? new engine internals. I allready have a cobra clutch pack in my differential(basically my only mod other than flowmasters) so hopefully it would live for a while..


This is all just random considerations, i may keep the the bike because it is FAST as *** and the 550 hp car would still probably be slower, but ive had a few close calls recently with people just not seeign me and cutting me off. The bike will do 1/4 mile in about 10.0@142 mph. 85 mph in 1st gear on 1 wheel, its pretty awesome but, just no where near safe.

any thoughts?

Im also worried about if i ever decided to sell the car if i would actaully get a decent price for it with the supercharger and work put in... Much easier to sell the bike and car seperately i guess than a car with mods for a good price.

Last edited by Andy13186; 03-18-2011 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:47 PM
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PurpleIcedGT
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The best advice that I can give you is....SLOW THE **** DOWN ON YOUR BIKE!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:51 PM
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Andy13186
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Originally Posted by PurpleIcedGT
The best advice that I can give you is....SLOW THE **** DOWN ON YOUR BIKE!!!!!!!!
most of the times i really almost crashed were caused by people cutting me off while im going near the speed limit

but it is hard to ride a bike slow.. its just not meant to cruise at 3k rpm its a superbike that can hit 170 indicated by the end of a highway on ramp. it begs to be redlined in 2nd 3rd 4th 5th , perfectly smooth effortless .01 second clutchless shifts just by slightly rolling off then back on the throttle while i push up on the shift lever. its seamless veyron-like accelleration

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Old 03-18-2011, 10:00 PM
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Hangwire
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550RWHP on a 2v 4.6L with a 2.1L KB will require max boost(14-16) and either headwork or blower cams. You will need to get forged pistons and forged connecting rods for absolute sure. And you will start pushing the Crank to its limit. Might as well buy a whole new rotating assembly, its really not that much more considering the total cost of it all.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:03 PM
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Andy13186
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How much did your setup run hangwire? I could probably settle for less HP if it means it will be more reliable. The car will still be my daily driver.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:07 PM
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I made 378RWHP/402RWTQ on my Auto. On your car this exact setup would be 397-408RWHP/422-434RWTQ because of the manual. Your torque down low will be effortless and plentiful. Twin-screw blowers are beasts! The eaton m112 maxes out on a stock head/cam 4V @ around 460-480RWHP.

Edit: BTW At this power level you are maxed on your stock rotating assembly. With a good professional tune your motor will last quite a while. But the wrong tune, a "bad batch of gas" or the wrong part failure at the wrong time=blown motor, possibly ruins heads, possibly ruined supercharger.

Last edited by Hangwire; 03-18-2011 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:24 PM
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Andy13186
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Originally Posted by Hangwire
I made 378RWHP/402RWTQ on my Auto. On your car this exact setup would be 397-408RWHP/422-434RWTQ because of the manual. Your torque down low will be effortless and plentiful. Twin-screw blowers are beasts! The eaton m112 maxes out on a stock head/cam 4V @ around 460-480RWHP.

Edit: BTW At this power level you are maxed on your stock rotating assembly. With a good professional tune your motor will last quite a while. But the wrong tune, a "bad batch of gas" or the wrong part failure at the wrong time=blown motor, possibly ruins heads, possibly ruined supercharger.
How much did your setup cost? did you install yourself?


this vid (and other vids like this) really made me want a twin screw (starts at about 28 sec)

guy in video says he later had a nitrous backfire though and messed some stuff up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0r8hzseOVM

Last edited by Andy13186; 03-18-2011 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:36 PM
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Only 85 in 1st? My gixxer 750 topped 95 in first. Oh how I miss the mind numbingly fast acceleration while race shifting. A blip of a second and the wheel would start to climb the ladder. Roll out of the throttle slightly to keep it down. Another blip into third and the wheel comes up again but slower this time. A blip into fourth and I realize that while 0 to 170 felt like an eternity in my mind, I had only elapsed 12 seconds of real time. Talk about tunnel vision!
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:44 PM
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Hangwire
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Originally Posted by Andy13186
How much did your setup cost? did you install yourself?


this vid (and other vids like this) really made me want a twin screw (starts at about 28 sec)

guy in video says he later had a nitrous backfire though and messed some stuff up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0r8hzseOVM
Used units are rarely sold, quickly bought and retain their value very well. The fact of the matter is nobody wants to get rid of a KB once they buy it(take a guess why) and they practically do not have durability issues unless they have been extremely neglected. Nothing wears or goes bad with the kit. It should last a lifetime.

I bought mine used from a member who used to be a regular here. It had about 2,000 miles on it and I paid $4400 for it. He paid $5400 total shipped and everything for it. The only regrets I have are the frustrations of not having every single bolt and piece I needed and the annoyance of trying to figure out what was what. I was also missing two hoses I think and some elbow fittings. Between disassembly(which will be the smoothest and easiest part) and assembly you're talking about managing 60-80 pieces of hardware.

My man, I suggest a sharpie and some ziplocs for this issue. The hardest part will be mounting the heat exchanger, routing the coolant/air hoses and getting the one bolt off of the back of the engine block(this will make a nun cuss up a storm and want to smoke a blunt afterwards). Once all of the coolant/air hoses are routed its amazing how little room is left at the back of the engine bay, its stuffed in like sardines. Some of the wiring is a bit tricky and I think could be worded a lot better in the manual. But overall the manual provides a picture and text for each step which is a big plus for me as a customer. However you will find some downfalls in the manual.

Last edited by Hangwire; 03-18-2011 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Moonshine
Only 85 in 1st? My gixxer 750 topped 95 in first. Oh how I miss the mind numbingly fast acceleration while race shifting. A blip of a second and the wheel would start to climb the ladder. Roll out of the throttle slightly to keep it down. Another blip into third and the wheel comes up again but slower this time. A blip into fourth and I realize that while 0 to 170 felt like an eternity in my mind, I had only elapsed 12 seconds of real time. Talk about tunnel vision!
According to gearingcommander.com stock geared 05 gsxr750s can hit 78 at redline in 1st with the redline set to the actual redline of 14000 and 06-10s can hit 81 at the actual redline of 14250. I think some year zx10rs can hit over 100 actual mph in 1st gear though, my cbr is geared down a bit comparatively to make it more drivable and easier to launch i suppose. But yes they are awesome, only 1st really comes up on my 1000(and it will flip you if you keep throttle open) unless im on a non-flat surface i can usually keep 2nd and 3rd down at full throttle and im not a heavy guy. the bike makes about 150 rwhp and weighs like 430 lbs wet 595 with me on it in gear. i think being tucked down a bit helps with the downforce in 2nd and 3rd.
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