I just purchased a set of 10.5's with 315 Sumitomo HTR-Z's (315/35/17). I know, a real cheap tire. Definitely hook up better than my bald stock tires. Car is a 2003 GT. Stock gears.

I don't do a lot of burnouts, but its fun here and there. My old BFG's never once hopped when doing a burnout. I'm the type who usually gets car rolling a little, stabs the clutch/gas, and pulls a rolling burnout. Never do the sit and smoke.

I tried a couple burnouts so far with the new wide tires. Starts spinning fine, for first couple seconds, then develops a major wheel hop. Shaking rear end violently. As soon as I feel it, I'm off the gas. Don't want to break anything and it looks cheesy hopping like that. Tried from a dead stop and same results. Please don't tell me my burnout days are over!!!!...lol

Question: What is my best course of action to eliminate this problem? I had my tires Nitro filled from AM when I bought them. Haven't checked tire pressure and will do so in the morning and post. In case that might have something to do with it. Car had been garage kept since I bought it with 28k miles and now sits with 50k.

Thanks for any advice. Much appreciated.

 

Tires might be a softer compound than ur bfg's and heating up faster plus being wider, you might just be getting "good" traction when u don't want it lol

 

Aftermarket lower control arms.

 

+1 on that. never crossed my mind last night (i was pretty tired)

 

also i'm assuming you had to remove or reverse the quad shocks to make the new rims/tires fit?? they supposedly compensate for wheel hop, though theyre not the best. i do agree, however, that aftermarket LCA's would be the best course of action.

 

Didn't have to reverse quad shocks. No rubbing issues. However, I just checked the nitro pressure from AM and its 45psi.

What pressure should I be running? I don't go to the strip or anything. Says on tire, 44psi max. Seems to ride REAL rough or harsh. Looking more for a comfort ride. Can this high of a pressure be a culprit to my wheel hop?

I got 35psi in fronts but these are different name brand tires. 245/45/17 BFG. This matter? Was gonna drop rear to same psi, just thought Id check before I go flatting my tires...

Last summer, I noticed my quad shocks (both sides) were soaked with oil and appeared to be blown out. Probably useless. But, I read were people say they don't do anything and some even remove. So I never replaced. Still didn't wheel hop with old rear tires at 35psi. Thoughts?

Thanks again guys...

 

Check the tire pressure recommendation in your door jamb or car manual. I usually keep mine around 36psi.

With a high quality LCA replacement, the rear quad shocks can be removed.

From Jazzer's Supension Sticky (https://mustangforums.com/forum/susp...ion-guide.html):

"Quad-shocks: These were an afterthought by Ford to address wheel hop issues of the Fox Body and SN95 Mustangs. They are installed in a horizontal position behind the rear wheels and connect between the frame and axle behind the brake rotor. Due to the flexabilty of the stamped-steel OEM LCA's and the soft rubber bushings at each end, wheel hop issues can result if ones right foot should get *clears throat*.... suddenly very heavy! When oporating properly, they will dampen wheel hop and decrease a bit of "waggle" in the rear end. If looking to install 10.5" or wider wheels, they can sometimes rub on the tires, so flipping them 180° may do the trick to avoid it. Your 4-link suspension bind can be reduced a bit further by completely removing these shocks (yes.... I said COMPLETELY REMOVE THEM). To do so, it is best to install a set of aftermarket LCA's that will not have the flexabilty found in the OEM ones, so render the quads un-necessary. To find a "Jazzer approved" LCA', read the section on them below"

 

Buy some control arms and do away with the quad shocks.

 

+100 on the LCA upgrade.

45psi is WAY too high for the 315 & 10.5 wheels. I run my Nitto 315 at 28psi and still see a little more wear in the center of my tires than the outer edges. I do not think the high tire pressure has anything to do with your wheel hop.

The 10.5" and 315mm are MUCH heavier than the factory wheel/tire package that you had previously. Thus the shocks may not be able to control the motion of these heavier assemblies as well as before.

Good luck in figuring this out!

 

Tire pressure is BY TIRE, not what the door jam says.

Get them down to 33-34 and go down from there as needed. No need at all for them to be so high.