I'm having a bit of a problem with my 2000 Mustang GT (Five speed, coupe). It's got 68,000 miles on it (purchased it new in May of 2000) - mostly city driven, it gets regular oil changes every 4,000 miles (give or take a couple of hundred) or so, at Valvoline Instant Oil change - usually using synthetic.

I had a problem with it about a year and a half ago - the check engine light was coming on quite a bit. It was almost like the idle was screwed up on it - it would die / stall when you would come to a stop, or when the RPM's fell below 1000. I would have to rev the engine at stop lights / signs or when slowing down. So I take it to a Ford dealer - they initially tell me that the entire intake system is shot! They say it's because of the K & N FIPK system on the car. They said 'it happens all the time with the K & N systems' - Yeah right!! (Now, I have heard that the K & N systems will cause havoc with the MAF sensor if you get too much of the K & N oil on the filter and it drips / sprays onto the sensor.) I let the filter dry, and it's not 'dripping' with oil before I reinstall it. So, I think it's BS [sm=bs.gif] of them to say that it's the K & N that's causing the stalling, and 'check engine light' coming on.

I've got a buddy that works at the Ford Customer Assistance Center, he calls the dealer, tells them to hook the car up to the computer again and read him the codes - well, it turns out that it's a faulty MAF sensor (which is covered under an 80,000 mile manufactures warrentee), and a bad O2 sensor. Not the entire intake system!! [sm=devilgrin.gif] The dealer was going to charge me close to $2000.00 for repairs before my buddy called them. It cost me a little more than $300.00 (that was also getting an inner tie-rod and rear gear seal replaced).

So, here we are about a year and a half later (problem cropped up a few months back) - the 'check engine' light is not coming on but, many times upon start up - it immediately dies. I instantly have to give it gas as soon as I turn the key to keep it running. I also have to give it gas when it dips below 1000 RPM for 5 - 10 minutes of driving before it drives normally. Doesn't happen all the time - maybe once a week.

Wondering if anybody has ever experienced this type of problem, and what was done to resolve it?

Thanks,

Mike [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

https://mustangforums.com/m_587901/tm.htm

This will help you. Sounds like your IAC is sticking, clean it out maybe.

 

"usually using synthetic"

uumm i think once you use synthetic, you have to use it every time all the time... you could be killing your motor if you dont always use it!!!
I mean i use to have a 01 Jetta 1.8Turbo, and that can had to have synthetic and i was always told never ever use any other oil other then full synthetic.
Anyways, good luck with your car, hope you get it figured out!

 

Yeah, I just got through reading that whole post / topic. Sounds exactly like my problem. One question is the part called an Intake Air Control (IAC) valve, or an Air Intake Control (AIC)? Have been looking on Autozone and Murray's for parts / prices - no luck.

 

I always thought it stood for Idle Air Control valve.

 

You can switch between the two at any time. Of course, synthetic is preferred and resists thermal breakdown and maintains viscosity across a broad range of temperatures.

I have mine changed under my extended warranty every 3K miles. I have no idea what they use and don't much worry about it. If the engine blows under warranty, I get a new one. Once the warranty goes, then synthetic will be the only thing in that motor.